TK bondservnt

the original poster simply needs to choose for themselves on 2 courses of action. 1.strap it like the originals. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26477-what-we-know-about-strapping-snaps-rivets-etc/#entry334341 2. strap it custom. use a build thread as a ref.

sorry but there is in fact a list http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18735-tk-resource-thread/ best to simply know where in fact it is!

krylon will turn into a cracked mess. you need to paint rubber with rubber based paints. the trick is to coat the boots with paint designed to paint rubber. basically what you're doing is adding colored rubber over the top of the rubber you already have. the bonding process is caused by the materials being the same type.

welcome here! take a quick read http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

give me a call and I'll walk you through the best steps to follow PM sent

best of luck on the m-19 took me 3 years to find one!

can't wait to see the new kit! waiting by post box

nomex gloves are for guys that want to skip accuracy. we don't consider them 'best' for anything.

dont trim any more. you need to size everything up together. don't finish the biceps or upper arm armor until you have the other side part way. the armor if it's body tight will hamper your movement. wearing the entire arm with the forearms complete will help you understand how TK armor fits really close together on average size and length arms and legs. don't finish a part unless it's screen accurate size and you're sure it will allow movement. so trim, test fit taped, only when completely sure you've got it then make sure you're wearing your undersuit top too! it makes a ton of difference to see the sizes needed. too tight of a trimming is a bad idea. make sure that you have no plastic at the bottom of the bicep for a return, and you can take some more of the lip off the top of the bicep. leaving mostly about 1/8-2/8 lip at the front, and 1/4 " at the back top of each bicep. at the elbow of the forearm there is no return edge on the inside, with about 1/4" at the outside top of the elbow. just like your wrists should have no return edge. ask more questions when you get your legs sorted out.

not really.

add fabric to the neckseal. done.

rubies retail price 900.00 and it is a post production model which was derived from rotj armor.

bravo! :smiley-sw013:

it's a chunk of T Track on an m19

back to topic. please do not clone this sculpt. if we are awash with low quality we will all lose out. we must maintain high standards or we don't belong in the legion

robert. don't make that 3d printed helmet. it is not a good enough file to join the 501st. at least i would not do it. just look at the makers on this thread. making your own will cost you hundreds more, maybe eve thousands more. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ and this is what real helmets look like.

I would pass. wrong shape. www.tkboots.com

I use the cap from a bottle of glue that's orange. pop in... pop out.

if you don't find it in research, then its best to ask detailed questions. photos of the parts you're looking at can be used to give detailed trimming or assembly methods. some of us feel like this data must be earned. I think it should be as open source as possible. suddenly in the midst of a question we can add to the site by answering it!

you might try making a reverse mold after you smooth everything out, and then make a casting to duplicate your mold. then you can cast a hollow mold make it out of aluminized resin, so essentially you'll always have a way to make quick backup copies of your sculpt in case it deteriorates too quickly. you'll lose your really fine sculpt! also one of the best ways to see the actual shape of the item you're making is to own a replica of the original. it's a great way to see the complexity hidden inside the shapes. aluminum forming tools

wow! that looks really nice! glad I was able to help out !! only a few minor bumps and such on the cheek tubes. the ears look really nice from what I see. .. can't wait to see a finished result. make sure you put star foam liners and chinstraps. now all you need are some keith's hovie tips!

any rubbing compound can work.

novus polish!

AP shipping works really well. I make AP lids and armor for people, and my shop is wide open, so if you order a built kit you'll get it much faster than a 8 month wait for ATA. getting into armor is very expensive, and usually requires lot's of extras, AP armor is much better quality than some armor's around, and with little to no wait for production and shipping. SDS armor and helmets are usually frowned upon around here, since we feel his quality standards and methods of construction are not as we need them to be. I personally think that AP and SDS are very close to each other, with the AP helmet being tighter, and more well shaped.

painted and sanded and painted HIPS