TK bondservnt

those handplates look really thin, and at the wrist they look like they are cut with a slight curve, not just a str8 line. the thumb part on hero plates looks moulded in a curved shape. almost 1/2 of the plate curves down towards the thumb.

I think I'm gonna have to drive to reno,NV and hit up a gun shop just to get a 10rounder to cut up!

yeah... and that pesky lord using the armor itself to control the troops... genius!

that screaming eagle sound is actually a blaster sound taken from the detention block scene where han solo hits the wall with a powerful blast. I tend to think that the hasbro blaster sounds are: 1. blaster normal fire. 2. wall hit. so if you hold down the trigger you can get several "shots" with number 1. and then you just hold down the button after releasing it, and then you can get the "wall hits" to repeat...

you can order hero ears from ATA. 3 bump. lenses, teeth, frown size. ears and painted helmet details all are in the hero design lid. I've seen TM lids in the hero style that are exact replicas down to the warping around the teeth on the faceplate. VT sells some nice hero designs in the faceplate as well. the hero design actually was used in the production of the MRCE, so you could do a mod into the hero style with a basic MRCE and mod with new lenses, paint, and the ear mod I did for that included thinning out the ears and changing the number of bumps from 4 back to 3. even added more material to the ears to make it right. you can pass EIB hero with any helmet with 3 teeth cut, bubble lenses and the proper paint. I did hero EIB with that pesky modded MRCE... you should be able to hit the mark fine with a properly assembled ATA paul explains more fully below on why it's not impossible to go hero...

if I want it, I'll outbid you during the last 2 minutes of the bidding war! but I have promised not to bid on it steve, so now you can have my bids...

keeping the footprint for the snap tab large enough so that the glue never touches the metal is VERY IMPORTANT when gluing snap tabs on HIPS styrene. with the combination of a hips tab, hips armor and plastic weld, the heat generated during the curing process can completely warp and damage the exterior finish of hips. e-6000 , plastic weld, generates heat during the cure. the resulting warping requires putty, and sanding and paint to correct. otherwise you just throw the armor into the bin. the melted spots look like a square, with a circle inside a circle. lot's of cratering, and warping. e-6000 when in contact with HIPS can melt hips under clamping pressure as well... even without a snap tab!

anyone here actually bidding? it just went up!

hmm... who has actually been bidding?

steve... if you really need the m38 in the first auction I'll stop bidding. the second link looks weird.

thats not m19 that second link looks suspect compared to the one amish and I are bidding on.

where! sniff sniff!

this is great!

I can also suggest chicago screws. also called screw posts. you can get them in the specialty fasteners section at lowes. the tops of the post look like rivets. actually to be screen accurate there are some interesting designs for the type of rivet used.

it integrates with the forum, and allows maps, videos and images to be shared in the chat. it's an ajax javascript widget. easy to implement. and it runs on mobile devices. http://wbe02.mibbit.com/products.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mibbit this IIRC web based client looks like the best solution. it supports file share, mobile devices, video and text, as well as running on all web based browsers. the chat system is free, and has advertisments. it uses a widget format that would be easy to integrate into our environment.

I believe that the clips that fired rounds carried 5 rounds.

I'm bidding too! everyone else stop! cause I will go SKY HIGH on it.

I used 2 rivets and washers to attach the knee plate. they fit right along the top nicely. to use the screen used glue on way, you'd have to purchase a completely different knee plate. the AP knee plate does not have the correct amount of plastic at it's lower edge to affix it in the screen used way. otherwise to rivet it on along the corner at the top is the way most people do it.

new photos? I'd like to make some constructive comments?

on the AP kit, of which I am quite vocal around these parts, the back is not separated at all, the suit was created partially from an ROTJ suit to begin with, and it's ABS. most of the TE/TE2 line comes with those back plate parts separated, so it's really ready to go ROTJ almost out of the box. just assemble it with the overlap method, instead of the butt joined and finishing strip. all you would have to do to make it ROTJ, thinner webbing belt, put the AB buttons on upside down, add the proper car door edge trim- if you let AP know that you're making an ROTJ he can sell you the door edge trim as well! AP's holster is not correct, as he sews the bottom shut. and you'd need longer straps for the holster for the ROTJ style. the blaster and handplates, and one of joe's ROTJ helmets, and your fan film would be well on it's way to accuracy.

thanks steve, any information you provide is very in line with this thread. and thanks again to mark, more information we all like to know about!

oh the sweet details! woo hoo! now that's what I'm talkin' bout.

on the subject of handplates can troopermaster comment on my posts please?

so the tour suit has the squared off bicep? or the fluted and smaller one? my arm does not fit at all into the fluted/angled one at all without shimming about 1/2" whereas the larger squared one fits fine, as long as I leave all the overlap on.