TK bondservnt

nothin like a pink vader!

I have the original screws as well... does anyone have a part number?

I just painted the tube, then sanded back down a little added e-6000 and taped it all together. of course you have to paint, then mount the clips with rivets, then sand then glue. some people don't glue each end, and put a bungee string from each cap to keep it as a storage container.

The brow trim is right, and the neck trim should be saved for another helmet, as it's the same. mike's trims are great for a stunt build, and he's stellar! I've noticed that TM's brow trim and AP's brow trim are exactly the same, while mike (tk4510) has a slight variance in height. mike's neck trim is also a little smaller than TM's... just for a point of referance.

another mentor showing his skills.

what is your opinion paul of the most recent rivets shown?

I'm right behind you boss! and it's all thanks to andy 19422.! the king of sterlings... he has a very large collection indeed.

that is much better! especially the cocked position of the bolt! I always wanted to see the travel distance on the open/closed bolt. helps me make my replica.

I think that there is some interest in knowing exactly the dimensions of the finishing strip. and the base below that for each part. it would help to get the details all set so that every troop has the same dimensions on their kits. the front of the armor's legs and arms should be a consistent size? don't you think? I know I had to change the base size below my finishing strips on my biceps and arms to allow them to fit larger arms. and my legs needed no real adjustment, because the overlaping strip of 25mm was fine enough to accomodate my shins.

I think when I heard some video discussion about it, they were notes on "improvements" for the evolution of the construction, like an updated list of the problem areas they discovered with the ANH design, and this seems to be his list of those improvements.

paul, the reason I asked is because you are the most expert person to request that type of information. if I wanted to purchase a set from you, that probably would go on a plate, as I usually like to put small parts on a plate when attaching them. it's so much easier than having them roll around the table.

speaking of accurate, do the fixing nuts and bolts have a cap, or a bolt top on them? some of the bolts look like they just have a rivet cap, with no bolt top. like a smooth cap on the top of the bolt, where it shows on the armor. how about the dimensions of the bolt/nut? most likely they are smaller than 6/32??

ah... found the post. pete's awesome -----

TM has strapping kits, and there have been a few for sale here on the boards.

the other problem that can happen with E-6000 and metal snap tabs. the heat of the glue touching the snap during cure can generate enough HEAT to melt or warp HIPS styrene. I know. I have had it happen on HIPS. it ruins the part, and makes the need for bondo, and more paint.

thanks brian for the support, and expert work here on the FISD. you keep the troops in line. ten hut..

you should not try to bend the T Tracks. I think the new mods are a great sign that doopy do's cares about accuracy! terry has some great build threads for hasbro's... check em out.

I think that if a sabre fell apart, then I don't doubt why you're upset with the design. that's too bad, because his trooperblade looks really good, in photos and in my hands...

I have mine on the way from sabrefreak on the RPF. I should make more of them.

go for the AP lid. ABS80 is the man to talk to...

that looks nice!

glad you like it. I mounted them so that they are outwards, and I mounted them pretty high up actually near where my belt crosses my body. my belt actually has to be really tight to keep everything together... one weak point in my barrell shaped body! nice looking TM build by the way...

that's another reason why I don't wear an inner belt, try attaching the inner belt to the armor, or just attach the straps to the inside of the AB/cod. keeps everything perfect distance.

screen accurate bicep gaps are fine. when a person has their arm hanging at their sides, the bicep has a gap, but when you bend your arm, it usually fills up the gap. I think you should lower your thigh straps about 2" you should have less gap between the shins and thighs. you can have a gap at the top and bottom, with a balance from the thigh, to the shin gaps... it's better if your legs have even spacing. the thighs just seem too pushed up high... lower them a bit, and it will make the suit more balanced. nice holster... that tan belt is nice, but I see way too many seams at the top and bottom... (my 2 cents)

I use a self contained system. red dot tire valve covers. the thing attaches to your car's air valve, and activates with motion detection. the led is lensed, and I just remove the back cap of the device and insert into the scope's body after I dremel it out. the lens is more bubbled than a regular lens, but it looks cool inside the scope... pilot red led valve covers the bottom part screws off, and the led top and motion sensors are in the bottom. could also be used to make a barrell LED. just shake the blaster and the lights come on. no wires or switches needed.