TK bondservnt

I personally think that if a helmet is cast from the inside, it will not completely capture the smoothness of the paint and finish on the outside. most likely the outsides were sanded and primed and painted. thus resulting in the shiny versions. you can clearly see bumpyness in the film, not just as much as we see from the copies made. I'd vote for a combination of smoothness and bumps. just not as pronounced. for the ABS helmets I'm almost sure they would be smoother. but the HDPE most likely had a haircell finish and probably cooled unevenly.

hello there ROLF! good to see you again! your TM sandy lookin really nice there... hey man, I just thought I'd let you know that while the blastech armory that you linked here shows some interesting blasters again while this is a set of metal blasters- the people here are not doing the parts correctly. the muzzle, and the folding stock are very off in dimensions and shape. the muzzle is particularly strange with extra bolts on the front and such. the sight rails on these metal blasters are also incorrect! best course of action would be to contact fireblade jedi as he has a metal de milled sterling for sale to the EU.

all in all both blasters look pretty good. I'd have to say that one of them looks like it was created with the BBC club plans... as the one on top is too long! I am uploading a photo to show where the distance is off. the BBC plans produce e-11's that are too long at the rear. cocking channels and rear end cap all being about 1/2" - 3/4" too long. the T tracks on e-11's also are not rubber, they are solid. you did a nice job of keeping the weathering subtle. and that's a plus. also I'd suggest that you make the front part of the hengstler brass colored except for the small plug at the front. which should be gloss black. the rear end of a hengstler can be cream tan, or dark primer grey. the trigger guard is anodized black, and the grips on a sterling (but not the trigger group) are glossy black. the undercoat on the 1950's sterlings L2A3 is a steel topped by a red/yellowish primer, and parkerized bluesteel black. the later version MK4 and MK5 as seen in the promo shots with carrie, is a crinkle coat 70's era sterling. both versions were used on set as blank firing, or demilled steel tubes.

I'd say M19 when tango offers these parts for making up a replica, he offers the m19 as it's scope.

nice one there, looks like the white elastic is slightly thinner than SA, which helps to keep everything hidden.

nice video there noel... notice how it's a non flexible strap! he did a good job of showing the concept. all I guess you'd add to the strap is the caps facing inside up on the main strap, to attach to the white elastic from the bottom, with the cap on the black strap, and the snap base facing down on the white elastic, from the bottom. so the snap is upside down, under the white elastic. then the white alastic can have a snap to the plastic. or just omit the snap entirely on the shoulder bells, and just connect and go! this would not pull on the white elastic at all, and the width of the black strap would be measured tight so that each bell site right next to the shoulder plastic straps. it looks like if you connect the shoulder bells to the white elastic at all, then pulling is the result.

I think andy covered it really well! this seems to be one of the german versions of the counter.

I put a snap holding the elastic bridge to the plastic shoulder strap. and I put the shoulder bell snap so that it's sitting completely under the white strap, not on top. in layers: top: plastic shoulder strap. white elastic with snap to shoulder strap. shoulder bell webbing/leather non flexible strap. snap from bell to white elastic. undersuit. bottom the other way is to connect both shoulder bells together with one strap across the back of your neck. and snaps to the plastic shoulder straps. this way your bells are connected together and the plastic straps are snapped on to keep them the correct distance from each other. I didn't use elastic on my shoulder bell tops, just some leather. also by slightly biasing the snap location towards the front of your body helps to keep them forward. aligning the bicep armor with the internals so that it keeps the shoulder bell forward by putting pressure from the bicep elastic. As well as the location for the bicep to bell elastic being on the outer edge of your tricep holding the bell and bicep always in their proper locations.

what about the picture of the ROTJ trooper wearing shoulder pads?

nice job!

I love the detail shared here! this is the kind of thing that keep's me here at the FISD! awesome detail!

john's thread here is a perfect example of the greeblie ESB stunt blaster. every single detail is perfect. the design was taken from an actual screen used replica that was originally offered by "pugman" Tango 'd fett has the parts available for making them. Sci-Fire weapons, while close to accurate, are not the best representation of the accuracy of the prop that john is showcasing here. The Sci- Fire ROTJ could be a tad bit better...

if you correctly place the wound coil to the correct shape it does not rattle much. allowing the coil to press against the 3/4" inner shim (fake bolt end) and the end cap, the pressure holds the coil in place just like a real spring.

I used 1/2" pvc for my inner barrels. it's also good to make the inner barrel extend past the end of the bolt, into the cocking channel. the rear of the bolt in this version is missing, so the 1/2" pvc should go into another piece of pvc that should be about 3/4" that simulates the end of the bolt, and then with the inner barrel extending that simulates the blowback buffer assembly that rides behind the bolt. to make the inner spring I used a copper wire from the ground wire on simple coaxial wire. I cut off the white insulation stripped out the whte and blk wires and painted the copper wire black after shaping it into a "spring" by wrapping it around some 3/4" tube.

simple star foam with a chin strap elastic. no helmet liner for ANH/ESB. now if you're making it into an ROTJ lid then you need a helmet liner. there is no way that liner would make a helmet more comfortable. hot and heavier is the only result. it's not like you're gonna get hit in the head with a blaster bolt?

ESB blasters with those greeblies are actually resin plastic toys on the set of the film. so having a resin blaster of the ESB type is completely screen accurate. the sci fire is ROTJ. it's foam over a carbon rod. you can clearly see the ESB greeblie stunt in ESB, and they all were resin props. as far as "prop consistency" and "poor old george" actually what sets STAR WARS and all the films apart from each other is the subtle changes made, which illustrate the passage of time and the progress of weapons and armor in the empire. it's all these changes that make the hobby fun for me!

I have already done this. check my signature for the FREE plans. The BBC plan has your dimension too long! the red line on the BBC plan is about 1/2" too long. you have to take into account the tip for the doopy do barrel end, and you also have to account for the folding stock mounting location, which lines up with the folding stock front lock. my plans have corrected the error, along with locating the parts like the mag well, and trigger group. The folding stock front lock lines up with the 1/2" hole with the notch. in the closed position. The barrel is 38MM and the rear cap lug area Outer diameter is 42mm so, where the cap goes on, the diameter is larger. ----------

only things I see are darker lenses shoulder strap rear large tab removal. and a hovie tip closeup, did you change out AP faucets? overall the build fits you very very well! nice job!

cheng! photos please when you get em@!

link broken!

TK boots are the ONLY centurion boot! any other boot will be rejected by command staff!

what about the inner barrel and spring? also I'd say that your sight rail should be just a tad thicker! but overall it's a nice look to it! proper size, proper length! I'm gonna have to get me a few of these!

you have the MGC jesse?

most accurate on left side

it's all my fault! I PM'd mason and he jumped on it! joy is back