vt357

The eBay link you posted says the fans are 5.0V 0.1-0.3A. I'm curious why you need 1.5A instead of ~0.9A for the 3 fans. Is this because the starting amps are higher than the run draw? Sent from my banthaphone using Tapatalk

The Stig driving the landspeeder = win.

That's what I used for mine. I had quite a few lying around - it seems every drill bit set or cheap multitool comes with a bunch.

Thanks guys. I've got a couple different types of metal shears that I used for the most of the metal work. I used the cutting wheel very little, only on the very thick bar stock. The sanding drums did come in very handy though.

This is the ultimate took way too long project. I first started this blaster build in January 2007 after I first saw the 501st march in the Rose Bowl Parade. I nearly finished it that then, but it ended up in a box. I'd pull it out every now and then to start working on it again. Then about a year ago after I officially joined the 501st with an ANH Tusken I pretty much tore it all apart to start over and make it more accurate. Once again it ended up in a box until recently when I FINALLY finished it. So I have a problem, I am a perfectionist. That's why it took me 5 years and a complete tear down to finish this thing... lol. But I finally had to say screw it, it will never be perfect, I just need to get it done. So I finally did. I won't go into too much detail b/c it's a pretty standard scratch build using the BBC templates. The only piece on this blaster that is not scratch made is the pistol grip which is from a real sterling smg. To build the scope I bought a cheap pair of binoculars. I added the glass lenses to the M19 pvc/funnel scope. I also backed the large lens with a printout of a sight reticule (a photoshop mix of two of the ones posted here on FISD). I added a rotary switch on the side of the scope and a red LED behind the reticule. Wires run from the scope and down the scope rail into the body of the blaster. The batteries are in the magazine. For T-track I used rubber from a garage door seal. I know plastic is more screen accurate, but I prefer the feel of the rubber. Finally let me say a few blasphemies. I can't stand the look of a hengstler counter or power cylinders on an E-11. [ducks beneath the incoming blaster fire] On to the photos:

Oh no! Well everybody says having 2 left feet means you're clumsy. So does having 2 right feet mean you're super talented?

I was on the waiting list for 6 months because of my size 13 feet. They just arrived yesterday, well worth the wait.

That lid looks really fantastic, definitely need to pick up one of these. Great tutorial too, thanks.

Awe come on, I said DON'T tempt me. Now look what you've gone and done. I think I really might have to give that a try (though right now it's waaay down on the list of priorities).

I've got thousands and thousands of Legos so don't tempt me! I have enough projects that I'm working on, I don't need another. That would be awesome though!

Nice! If you've got big feet like me (size 13) it'll be 6-7 weeks before they have any back in stock. So go ahead and get yourself on that back order list now. From what everybody says it should be well worth the wait. From the few emails I've had with them I can say they are prompt and great at communication.

:lol:

I haven't built a TK bucket yet, but I put a hard hat suspension in my Tusken Raider helmet. In the second Tusken helmet I'm building, and in a future TK build, I will not be using one again. It has some benefits of allowing airflow around the top of your head. But it's annoying to install and get in the right position so that everything sits at the right level. I'll just be doing the old method of foam and chinstrap. But I have a big head, so you might have better luck.

So I've got to ask about the workshop. What do you use the range hood for? I see the duct work is set up for fan exhaust. The lights are a nice bonus there.

Sorry to necropost. I was curious how your rustoleum paint job has held up after a year of trooping? Would you go that route again?