ukswrath

10. Thermal Detonator Canon reference pic. Trim excess plastic from caps and face plate. Face plate is approximately 115mm in length. Circumference width approximately 85mm. Cap width .78" or 20mm Cut 2" PVC pipe to 7-1/2" 10a. Measure .78" or 20mm from outer pipe edge. Reduce the OD (outer diameter) by sanding or other so that the end caps will slip on without much effort. Test before going to next step. Measure and find center of pipe. Add painter's tape to pipe, enough to cover the width of the entire face plate. Locate center of face plate and position it on the pipe and center it with the pipe. Using a pencil outline the face plate on the painter's tape. Remove outer section of tape that has been outlined. Scuff up the remaining uncovered pipe surface using 3m scotch brite pad or similar. Install painter's tape where end caps will be later installed. 10b. Paint assembly grey with approved color. Let dry. After drying remove tape. Center and glue faceplate to tube with E6000. Let glue dry. After drying. 10c. Making TD clips Using 1/16" x 1-1/16" aluminum band metal, cut two 9" sections. Using a pencil measure and mark strip in the following sections. 1/2", 2-1/2", 5" Round corners on one edge. Establish the center of the strip a drill a 11/32" hole at the 1/2 & 2-1/2" locations. Using a separate pipe made of thicker material drill two holes for separate screw that will be used for bending the straps or use self tapping screws. Mount 1/2" hole to pipe. Place opposite end of pipe in vice or clamp to a table or bench. Double checking to ensure strap in perpendicular to pipe, wrap strap around pipe 180 degrees from mount screw. Remove strap from pipe. Notice the section of strap on the 1/2" side is straight, you will need to bend this. Using a vise if possible place a piece of heavy cloth in the jaws. Install 1/4" section of strap, tighten and slightly bend a curve into the section. Note: a pair of pliers or channel lock wrench will work also but you'll need to take to evenly bend the area. Place the clips on the edge of a piece wood curved side up. Place the 5" marked section at edge. Placing one hand on the table side and the other on the exposed side begin to crease the metal. Place a 1/8" piece of round iron or similar in a vice or clamp to a table. Continue to fold the edge around until it is parallel with the curved but flat section. Note: it's not a great idea to use a screw driver as I did but it served a purpose. Using a file taped with duct tape place the file in between the bent sections near the end. Clamp section nearest to clip bend. After bend your clips should look like this.

Thanks James. As always the goal is that everyone may benefit from the build.

7h. Thighs cont.... Installing ammo belt NOTE: AM belt replaced with ATA. After trimming ammo belt measure 50mm from either left or right outer box to edge and trim excess. The overall belt length is 334mm Starting with the right side of the thigh measure 6mm & 6mm from return edge corner and drill 3/32" hole for rivet. Measure mounting hole 10mm & 10mm from edge at both ends of the ammo belt. Drill 3/32" hole Mount right side ammo belt to thigh. Rivets and tools needed. Mount belt. Install eyelet post from the ammo belt inward. Install cap on eyelet. Place something hard under the outer eyelet then using tool drive cap down onto eyelet. Wrap ammo belt around thigh, drill a 3/32" hole into thigh at ammo belt left hole location, install rivet similar to right side. Belt should be centered with outer cover strip. In closing I generally apply a small amount of E6000 glue between the ammo belt and front of thigh.

Sorry for the delay. life, armor changes, etc. Let's continue on. Ab cont... today we'll be installing the belt snaps, trim and paint the ab button plates 4j. Belt snap installation. Following the ab snap template, measure and mark ab snap holes. The particular snaps I'll be installing are 15mm "S" snaps, aka poppers. Mark snap holes to drill Starting with the left side measure 59mm from left center return edge. Then measure 15mm from lower return edge. Mark right side holes. Measure 28mm from right center return edge. Measure 15mm from lower return edge. The distance between the two holes is 343mm. Drill two 3/16" holes for the male post. 4k. Install snaps. Snap and install identification. Install male eyelet through back of ab. Install stud on top of eyelet. Place something flat and hard at the back of eyelet. I used very hard piece of wood. Using the Stud setter drive the stud down on to the eyelet. Ab snap complete. 4l. Ab button plates. Trim ab button plates and paint. Tools. Using painter tape cover a piece of excess cover strip material or similar. Using square cut out 9+ 15/32" holes on painter's tape and place over buttons. After all the buttons have been outlined cover remaining exposed ab plates. Prepare to paint grey buttons. Colors as per color chart. Cover blue buttons locations. Paint. Let dry After drying, cover grey buttons and remove tape from unpainted blue buttons. Paint Blue as per color chart. Let dry then remove all tape.

Great info Chris, thanks for posting this.

lol

Sorry for hijacking your build thread Josh, my bad.

So true. Thanks for the kudos brother

Sounds good, let us know if we can be of assistance

Thanks, in a nutshell "Mission: Encourage the TKs who are active here to do localized outreach within their individual garrisons, squads, and outposts. Each FISD Attaché will be charged with outreach within their local units in support of the FISD Attaché program’s vision. The staff will provide an initial outreach message, but each attaché will have the flexibility to tailor an outreach program that works best to the local ground conditions. The attaché will also post FISD information relevant to the local unit (newsletter announcements, etc.) and in turn relay relevant information back to staff as part of his/her duties. As a secondary duty, the attaché will serve as a mentor, helping to bring along the costumes of both old and new members, thereby raising the overall Legion TK costume quality level at the grass-roots level."

Interesting, I'm surprised they switch back. I suspect they found a weakness either in the material or it wasn't cost effective. I could be wrong.

Good point Jason. Josh, staying within the requirements on the front side of your armor should be your primary goal. You can do it brother.

Got it!

NP While on the topic of your thighs, what's the measurement between the two return edges here? Reason I ask is it's supposed to be 20mm give or take. Your's appear much wider, I could be wrong. Just throwing thoughts out there.

I don't understand is there some kind of glue shortage or regulation prohibiting the purchase. Most hobby, craft, DIY stores have this stuff. You need my to ship you some?

WOW! I've never heard of that happening. Good thing is once it dries you can just peel it up, assuming this is E6000. Sorry to hear about your mishap.

Anyone at the SDCC seen these close to know if any of the details are painted or are they all decals?

Nice job Dino

Congrats Chris, welcome to the ranks sir

Well, that answers my question.

Already gave mine out. While on the same subject has anyone tried to use a code more than once?

Somehow I've been missing your build, no longer. Great job so far Brandon.

Not a bad idea Brandon, never thought of that. I wonder what the cost difference is between there and let's say ATA. Tarrell sells two sheets (approx 14" x 24") for $25 with shipping. Good info here.

You and everyone else lol Well I love a challenge, as long as it's better than FX I build it to Centurion, what the heck. You never know Adam there still may be an extra Sandy bucket for your future, it may not meet SWAT standards but as for deployed, you should be good.

lol On another note, though we may may not know until they arrive, if they use screws and/or rivets that means they can be disassembled and reassembled.