ukswrath

Yea that's why I mentioned not touching it, it's a design issue. Just find the happy medium and run with it. I personally think it will be fine as is.

Hey Tony here's a MTK ESB build that you can use, not much difference between the two. Just be sure to follow the "Stunt" requirements from the CRL when building. Build - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26919-my-first-esb-tk-build-mtk/ CRL - http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt

Hey on a positive note from my build camp, finally got back to the build though it's still only cutting trim

As Josh has said you can do over. This time place the glue 1/4"+ away form the seem, add magnets to hold sections together, run painters tape from the top section to the bottom section is several locations, I would suggest back center, left & right ear locations and traps. That should do it.

Sniper knee, L2 no, actually I really wouldn't see a problem with L3 either however, I would have like to have seen the left side sniper edge (looking at it installed from the installed position) a bit more aligned with the shin return edge, but at this point I wouldn't touch it unless gazmosis advises you to. Foam position, basically install your armor with the shin in its new position. Move your thigh around (forward or back) to find the sweet spot. Add foam accordingly.

THT

Pretty dang close, what do you think Steve?

Dritz snaps are garbage period, I'd recommend going with Tandy or Fasnap, 50-100 pack especially if you plan on build any more armor. Looking forward to your build Sam.

Nice looking build Simon.

Whhhaaaaaaaaat? This is only your second build? Dude you're an animal, oh and a natural.

I swear Steve we must have been thinking about the same thing, besides taking a phone call in delaying me I was going to post this.... lol

Oh I know that feeling lol. If you have a ACE hardware nearby they may have some, they tend to carry more non-mainstream items unlike HD or Lowes.

Stein didn't know if you were finished yet but don't forget to remove the return edge from your ab button plates. Looking great sir.

lol thanks for the vote of confidence Jason, the only official word is that the chest plate sit atop of the ab plate. How high it rides on your neck is up to the individual, though this seems to be a common theme with the bracket type attachment system, not so common with the snap and nylon.

Hey Jason thanks for the Hobby lobby info, yea I should have mentioned you can buy these little beauties at any hobby craft store. As for the split rivets I believe I included a link to ebay where you can buy them in bulk but I also just added a link to evilboys rivet sets sold here on whitearmor. THT thank you

Some people love them, some don't. You be the judge

Brandons foam suggestion is also a great idea to align armor. Without foam my legs look bow-legged, foam is your friend.

ok I see the problem, they should actually look more like this. or

Going for paint to match on the boots huh?

Also do you have a profile pic the sniper knee and shin?

Assuming your thighs are facing forward and you have your shins pulled down around your boots as far as they'll go, how much does you thigh over lap the sniper knee?

lol awesome Josh. Always feels good to sport the full armor for the first time doesn't it? Hey a little helpful criticism here, you will need to reduce your bell to shoulder clearance to almost zero so that when the elastic stretches naturally there's not large gaps like there is now. Place your bell next to the shoulder strap elastic, then measure out to your shoulder strap snap. Measure the same distance at the bell connecting strap the sew in the snap, or shorten the length at the other end of the strap. Also, is the ab belt fixed? It seems to be sitting a bit high covering the lower ab button, it needs to sit below the button.

Wow looking great Eric, almost there.

Alright the official word is NO bracket screw heads have to be painted for Centurion level however, it is highly suggested. Edit: Good call Brandon

Hey Kyle, almost there brother.