ukswrath

My 2 cents, for the precision straight and curved lines you'll need to make, unless you have mad skills, a table style belt sander is highly recommended.

Very nice Mark. Looking good. See you at Centurion

Very nice Dan, see you on the other side trooper

Hey Sean, well besides your blaster needing power cylinders, D-ring, paint the tip and making sure you have 6 T-tracks and a row of holes left (I cant clearly see these) you should be good to go. Your brow appears a bit low also but its not a deal breaker IMO. Looking good brother, good luck.

Though I haven't posted the info on my boxes yet I simply glued nylon bolts to the inside of each box, drill a hole in the ab where the bolt ran through and is secured on the other side with a nylon nut. My two cents

SWEET! Another TFA build num num num

You can trim from there if needed however, how the posterior fitting now? Have a pic?

Yes, it's still the most versatile model on the market IMO.

huh, yea I've never heard of the imperial sandtrooper either

Regarding the ammo belt. It looks to be correct just ensure it will line up with the return edges on the thigh. Ears looks great also, don't forget to clean up the rough paint edges with thinner and a Q-tip.

Accuracy update cont.... Belt and center boxes By now some may be aware the two center belt boxes are 2/3 rubber and the rubber of the belt boxes is shaped in the the contour of the belt. Also the belt itself has a 1/4" thick strip of neoprene rubber between the floor mat material and the nylon belt. In this section I will be creating the rubber mount for those boxes and illustrate the 1/4" neoprene strip though the belt assembly as a whole will be discussed in a later post. This is for the accuracy update only. Starting with the rubber material purchased through Amazon. It's 1" thick x 6" x 6" Sorbothane isolating padding. Pliable and strong. The boxes. Already assembled they now needed to be split at the joining seems. Once split, starting with right side box (non ribbed), measure the interior dimensions. Mark and cut rubber section. Using belt sander or other shape to fit box cap correctly, rough up glossy edges and trim corners as needed. Test fit Measure the left box. Measure and cut rubber Measure and cut indent in rubber to match indent on box cap Test fit Ready to drill holes for Chicago mount screws To be continued...

Accuracy update cont... Disclaimer - These accuracy modifications are not mandatory Biceps Another challenging area to update Starting with the pill boxes, mark and prepare to cut out recessed area like that of the chest and ankle. Now for the seam and ribbed locations. Locate and mark. Cut area indicated in green. Scribe and cut long seam Using a dremel or other remove section in red Using a belt sander and dremel or other remove return edges V notch (return edge removed). Note: Once I have an official name for this area I'll change the wording. Seem trimmed Using a file sharpen V notch giving the edges a sharp look. Check overall edge alignment Creating inner cover strip. This by far is the most challenging part. The entire seem needs to be covered, this includes the V notch location, greeblie buckle indent and return edges. I started by measuring the area the inner strip would need to cover and ensure there was enough room to glue. These are rough measurements. Once I have the final cover strip I revise the info here. Width Length Using left over cover strip material, measure and cut a section for each arm. Making some checks Locate the buckle indent. Measure the bend angles and mark the cover strip where the bends will need to be made. Establishing the areas to bend This is where it get tricky NOTE: Use heat resistant gloves. Using a heat gun, wood and heavy duty cardboard, concentrate heat to the bend area and shape them to the bicep. Note: This is my first attempt Not too pretty I must say Test fit To be continued...

Thanks Brian

1) Align the shoulder bells so that the edge is facing straight forward. 2) Rotate the biceps so that the thumb print is facing your body and the outer cover strip is aligned with the bell edge. NOTE: The forearm cover strip will be aligned with the bicep cover strip. See where I'm going with this? 3) Move the ab, cod, kidney and posterior up about 1" to eliminated the posterior low hang 4) Move the thighs up in relation to the items above 5) Ensure the leg cover strips are facing forward. edit 6) Pull the bells up so that they are almost flush with the shoulder straps/cover strips

Yea not the first time I melted plastic accident. Lessons learned. I'd contact the armor mfg for another set

Hey Victor well, um, do you want the good news or the not so good news first? Placement is good, could stand to be a couple notches forward however, the melted strip will need to be repaired or replaced. If you don't mind me asking why did you heat it?

I was referring to your armor Edit: Point being if were going to call out every accuracy should we have our own ducks in a row? Set an example

Be careful when trimming and shaping the hyperfirm, the rubber can be a bit brittle in areas causing premature cracking and splitting. The only mods I was safely able to make were the wires to the counter and the D ring mount (mine came without).

You're fine Mark

He planned it haha, well played, well played. Welcome to the ranks trooper

That is correct, there is no set standard because everyone's shoulders are different. Shoulder Straps For 501st approval: These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. For level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed. For level three certification (if applicable): These shall free float in back. These shall be glued in front. The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. And screen accurate armor. If anyone cares to take a stab on how many ridges are present on the chest plate by all means have at it lol

Can we get the resin info as well, I'd like to try this.

ANOVOS should take some tips off our build threads. Those boxes are very clean and crisp looking.