ukswrath

Excellent job Stein! Edit: If possible you need to drop the right bicep a bit and reign in the gap between it and the right forearm, there's quite a bit of room there.

Heck someone needs to put out an instructional video for this thing Wish I had a build team

AM 2.0 is still very much excepted, even at L3 accuracy. With that said even with AM 2.0 there may be some shimming involved. Nothing for certain. Another armor consideration is RT-MOD, designed specifically for larger guys, and the screen accuracy is much better then AM.

What if you start with the upper bolts first, then wrap the lower section around the helmet and then install the lower bolt?

lol. My first thought was to do what you did, making the rear decals functional, but then a troop time constraint hit me so I went with 2 intake (front) and 2 exhaust (rear). One button controls front left and right rear fans the another button controls the other two so I'm not always running 4 unless needed. The other two buttons control the Hearing Assist and ROM/FX power. Thanks again for the kudos Bill

Gaskets cont... 4. Gluing joints (assembly locations) Starting with the shoulders. Place shoulder gasket ribbed side down, connecting material shiny side up. Using the Denatured Alcohol clean entire connection material surface and the gasket material approximately 1" from the edge inward. Notice the dull finish. Place the two small connecting material sections shiny side up with the indented square overlapping each other as such. Ensure the placement is correct in relationship with the shoulder gasket (ribs facing upward) Apply glue in the following green areas. NOTE: DO NOT apply glue in the square area between the two connecting materials, only on the top section. Place shoulder gasket over connecting material. Place you hand or a piece of wood over the area for about 20 seconds. Allow for the glue to penetrate both the connecting material and gasket material. Let it cure naturally or apply Zip Kicker Flip gasket over, ribbed face down. Fold the right side over the back. Apply glue to the following areas. Fold left side over onto the connecting material with the freshly applied glue. Wait a few seconds and/or apply Zip Kicker If you still have a gap between the ribs reapply glues to the ribs then fold forcing the ribs together. After glue dries your should be left with this. Now turn the gasket inside out like this. Grab the free Arm pit section with your left hand and twist to the left. The goal here is to ensure the connection materials will align when finished. Note: The box shaped ends should twist free on top of one another. If any glue made it between and fused the two you will need to separate them before proceeding. Continue to twist until the connecting material are aligned with the points facing each other. Check alignment. OK? move on. Now fold the material with the newly glued connecting material towards you. Apply glue in the following areas. Note: Ensure there is no glue on the connecting material boxes. Gluing of the two will be done last. Fold the remaining gasket onto the newly glued connecting material. Once glue has dried recheck the alignment of the seam. If all is good, add glue to the remaining connecting material corners (square areas) Once dry fold the gasket ribbed side out. Inspect material seam alignment. Test fit. Finished with the Shoulders. Knees & Elbows are much easier and basically the same assembly process. Apply glue to 1/2 of connecting material. Align and place gasket material (ribbed side up) over the glue. Being this is a longer seem it is best to use a block of wood or something similar to evenly distribute the applied pressure. Once dry flip gasket ribbed down. Fold over newly glued section (in this case the right side). Apply glue to connecting material then fold unglued (left) section onto it. NOTE: It's a good idea to place a towel underneath the sections to be glued to prevent unwanted bonding of other areas. Check the seem If any ribbed seems are not completely bonded, apply more glue to those areas and simply fold the ribs onto themselves. That's it! Remove any remaining connecting material protruding from the edges. Finished

Excellent thanks!

Here ya go. The TFA version is still under production. Here it is with the latest Omni-Directional Mic I sell.

Well if you have any questions feel free to contact me.

Excess glue. Just use a pies of scrap to get one end started then peel from there. Thanks for the Kudos Bill

AHH! Good information.

TFA Edit: probably should have clarified

Brandon this is awesome. Nice to see another techie try his hand at the Anker battery supply. And the vent fans, you're doing what I've only dreamed of. Cool! Very nice build so far. Great detail

Looking good Richard

Not to hijack your thread but I remember when scrap piles were only that big. And now .... Another TM build. Awesome!

Hey Steven let's try to answer your questions. First off it's a good rule of thumb is to align the top halves of your armor and cut the bottom halves to match. Note the blue line in the pic I've provided. With that said you may not have the option. If not I would suggest aligning the edges that come together naturally then trim the opposite end. Align cover strip with edge of armor (green line to blue line) Q1. Bevel the cover strip corners (red lines) Have any other questions feel free to ask away.

Very cool! Excellent job

Another dirty build, love it!

Looking good Scott.

Excellent! Sorry I missed most of your build. Great job

Hey Stephen before you get discouraged let's take a look. Like Bone said please explain the gap concern you have. Stay positive brother

Hey Jayden congrats, welcome to EIB sir .

Congrats Pete welcome to the ranks trooper

Sorry I'm late to your Centurion party. Congrats trooper