Sly11

Another simply amazing piece of work from a talented member of FISD. Love it.

Congratulations Chris, welcome to the ranks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You can do a Doopys pipe build, that will give you room enough for electronics. So you get all the bits minus the barrel , which you purchase a length of PVC pipe from your local hard ware store. There is a template in the E11 section, that you print out and wrap around the pipe the drill all the holes on the correct positions. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I am stuck.......the code section I have added as Tie fighter blaster is not working.. Basically I and running with 4 weapons modes. Ell blaster, rapid fire, stun and the Tie, but for some reason the first 3 activate and the green led and sound for tie do not. The code looks good but I must have missed something. Poodoo! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thank you, that's a great help Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thank you for you help.

Tapatalk is back up and running. I took Tolo's advice, and bingo I'm back. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks Eric, will give it a go.

Hi Manual, I have a question is it the same din pin on each of the drivers, or is it a different pin for each colour? I am doing one of these builds and just need to make sure. If they are all the end connector, that is easy,

So Mathias, where to from here ? Dark Father and I are both with iinet in Australia, we have both checked with our ISP and they are telling us, there is nothing wrong at their end. We both think they are just passing the buck off and saying it is a website server issue. I must say I am lucky enough to still access from desk top for the time being, but tapatalk refuses to do anything when I try to log in. Appreciate the work you guys are doing in the background, fingers crossed for a resolution in the near future.

Hey Stu, I have a set of decals you can use for basic approval, then if you need to put the others back on for higher approval you can do that. I will also show you a way to easily put the decals on so you don't get bubbles. We can save your current decals also for reuse.

Hi Brandon, I have a few more questions. 1. On the LED drivers, was Dim pin the same leg for each driver, and looking at your image is that the center of the three tiny legs on that very small component. 2. what technique did you use to get them down, as I struggled with the + and -, as they were small enough. Thank you

This is bizarre. Sometimes I can get in through Tapatalk (not today) and generally cant get on FISD on the desk top. I am using Hola at the moment and stating that I am viewing this page from the US, hence I am posting this from the desktop. I am in Australia. It is working for now, but later today it probably wont. Still very hit and miss across all my devices.

Novus indeed. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I agree with Mutter, ABS turns from a shape to a floppy flat mess in the blink of an eye. Hot water is a safer bet. If you have spare ABS piece, have a play around with a heat gun and see how 1 second too much, can make a difference. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi Pat, this goes back a few post to the one with your thigh shot with the uneven bottom alignment. I think it is the thigh your ammo pack covers. Just a recommendation as that part that sticks down may catch on your undersuit. Consider taking the return edge off that area and apply some heat to it and carefully bend it back . This is just to even it up. You can then reduce the new return edge you would have created. If that makes sense. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looking dirty guys, great job so far. Hoping you can make it down to Brisvegas for Comicon so we can see it in the flesh. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

This same thing has happened to me, although I caught it before it completely separated. I cut two thin strips of ABS approximately 1.75 inch long and only 3-4 mm wide. Luckily I had an area with enough space to slide these under at either side of the bridge, (as wide as the flat side areas are ) under the bridge. I used CA glue and Zipp kicker to set it immediately . For the mid section (where the bumps are underneath) I used a two part epoxy resin and layered it along the crack with a small piece of cloth between the layers. A sort of poor mans fibre glass. I am away from home at the moment but will come back to this post and and a photo so you can see the side repair. It is not obvious at all and for the time being will suffice. Long term I wil make a complete rear piece for both sides. It will be identical width to the bridge, and follow the same curvature so improving the overall strength of the entire bridge. I intend to trim out the return edge of the chest plate to the exacting width as well, so the ABS let's call it under bridge , will be glued to the inside of the chest plate forming a sandwiching effect. It will be glued the full length of the bridge. Complete reinforcing. 1mm ABS should be perfect for this leaving some flexibility and not looking obvious hopefully. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congrats Sascha, welcome to EIB rank. Your armor is beautiful. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Dremel for me, but I do also like the foam sanding blocks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looks sensational, good luck. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thank you. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I run 2 squirrel fans, opted for 5volt and get a good 6+ hours of run time off 4 rechargeable AA batteries hooked in series. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looking sharp, good luck Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congratulation and welcome to Centurion rank Russell . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk