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Maybe Billhag just opted for an alternate way of mounting the rail to make things look "clean"? With the scope mounted, there's no purpose for the iron sights. I have a scope AND iron sights on my AR-15, but the iron sights are mounted at 45 degrees from vertical because the scope is in the way - this way I have the iron sights as backup in case the scope fails. Can't really do that with a Sterling.

Looking incredibly good! Heck, no point in spraying if the next few coats look this smooth! What are you planning to do on the black elastic sides?

DON'T use spray paint - it will crack. I'm talking about vinyl spray dye or SEM flexible Color Coat. I've done 3 whole car interiors and to my knowledge, none of it has ever cracked or lifted. The driver's front seat usually takes the most abuse and the material flexes A LOT. As long as you get the final coating smooth, it really doesn't matter. I suppose less chance of brush marks is the only advantage. The Cadillac interior I did was TRASHED. Car was outside for years with a ripped convertible top. Seats were YELLOW and moldy. My friend was on a serious budget, so I replaced all the nasty foam, then put the original covers back on and used white vinyl spray dye...like 6 cans. Here's the front seat before installation (it's seriously like a small couch):

Eli, you're halfway to posting detailed images since you're already experienced with photobucket. The tutorial below will show you the rest. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/5-howto-post-images-on-the-forums/

Great work, Brandon. If TK boots doesn't come up with something soon, I may be following your lead. I'm curious to see how the frog tape works - I've seen that stuff several times, but I'm skeptical. Has anyone ever used the vinyl dye in spray cans? Seems like it would be a heck of a lot easier than brushes. I've dyed many car seats and that stuff holds up great. In fact, I dyed the whole interior of a 1968 Cadillac white. "White an impolite person white" is what I called it. I'd post a picture of the completed interior (it's like a living room), but I don't want to detract from your thread with an off-topic picture.

And out of nowhere... NICE WORK, ELI! BOOM!!! Any plans to sell those sweet stands? Even more mesmerizing are the photobucket pictures of your R2 build - I imagine there's a forum and member vendors for that too. At this rate, pretty soon I'll be working just to support my Star Wars habit... FISD is my gateway drug.

Tino, STELLAR work!!! Possibly the first beneficial use of rust I've ever seen. With your paint skills, I'm convinced your E-11 looks more realistic than mine will when it's done! Your presentation in this thread is SO CLEAN, I have an odd feeling like I'm at a hospital while I'm reading it...

I've got video, but hesitate to post illegal activities, lest the ATF "stormtroops" my house and seizes all my hard work. Maybe once I've got it permanently deactivated... I was only like 2% from being fully functional and couldn't bear the thought of deactivating without trying it first.

Good eye, Steve. I didn't even notice the bend at the rear until you mentioned it. And a nice reference for scope positioning. Drawing corrected, sir!

Tim is right with the 1/8" X 3/4" aluminum bar. Cardboard templates are ALWAYS a good idea. Scope Rail: And the counter bracket, if you need it: Sorry to hijack your thread, Tim...

Those boots are SLICK!!! I find it difficult to believe the shoe company thought a super smooth sole was a good idea. Especially with our modern hyper-vigilant safety culture. Lawyers are standing by... Seriously though, those look like really nice boots!!!

Glad to see an update Derek! That new magazine is going to look really good. Be sure to read the Gazmosis build on how to hollow out the magazine well. No hurry, just grind down the walls a little bit at a time. While you're waiting on the new magazine, is there any way to salvage your original magazine by filling the engraving with putty, sanding flat and giving it another try? Or better yet, just sand the whole bottom off and replace it with a new piece of plastic. You could cut a piece of plastic out of an old CD case - those are usually pretty easy to come by. Just a thought. I suppose at this point, working on your old magazine would just be an exercise since you'll probably like the new one much better. Sorry the selector switch didn't work out - it was looking good. But being stuck in full auto isn't a bad thing either...

NICE!!! What Tim said too...just when I think I've seen every possible way to make a Sterling, along comes a new method! Excellent work keeping the receiver straight - I spent extra time getting that alignment just right 'cause nobody wants a crooked gun!

Duplicating specific character screen accurate armor is inspiring to me. OCD seems like "Ordinary" Compulsive Disorder compared to what you guys are doing. Followed!

Awesome newsletter this month!!! Thanks to all the staff who take the time to assemble it!

Apparently, these kits are not big sellers in my area. Fortunately, before going to any store, I searched for the kit by store location on the Radio Shack website, within a 50 mile radius of my zipcode. None of them have it in stock. THAT saved me a bunch of time and frustration. Good news is, you can order it online and have it shipped to your local Radio Shack for free.

Left work and found out Radio Shack closes at 8PM. Missed it today too. It's on the list and there's always tomorrow!

Found out last night from a helpful cashier at Joann Fabrics... There's a 50% off coupon on the Joann website that's good through May 3. I was buying snaps and elastic and her tip saved me a bunch of money! I was able to pull up the website and coupon on my iPhone, and she scanned the coupon code directly from my phone. LOL, must be my good looks and charm...

SPECTACULAR!

STELLAR! Guess who's going to Radio Shack on the way home?

Ronny, I posted a step-by-step thread for "Cutting a Sterling Magazine to E-11 Size" since I was ready to cut mine. Hopefully, this helps. I figured other people could use it, so I made an independent thread instead of hijacking your thread. Good luck! I was nervous about making the cut in the right place!!!

Fisheye camera lens?

<Rubbing hands together briskly> Can't wait to see this!!! VERY exciting! This is essentially where I'm at right now! Just cut my magazine last night!

Ronny, I'm not sure why you would need to reposition the magazine clip, but it is likely silver soldered onto the magazine like the rest of the parts. Heat the magazine to 1300 degrees to melt the solder and the clip should come off. Reposition and resolder.

Which is exact purpose of the video. Easier to watch it than explain it. The first 3 seconds shows the folded format, 1 mm of separation and the spring tension on the end cap.