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If you turn on the ceiling fan, you'll have yourself a home defense "automatic sentry". Glad to see some paint being applied and REALLY looking forward to all the masking and weathering! What happened to your magazine clip? I thought you added one or it was included on the magazine from Steve?

Derek, I think you're doing a GREAT job! Just keep at it! Great job with the front sight and rear catch! Hollowing out those parts worries me - I'll be afraid I'll break them! If you sand the putty and epoxy smooth, I don't think anyone will ever notice you modified the trigger guard. If it bothers you, you might try shortening the spring one coil at a time until you like the way it looks. It's only a pen spring and you can drill it out and start over with another spring if you cut it too short. Out of curiosity, I wanted to see how much the trigger really moves. I checked the trigger pull on my build with a ruler. From full forward to full back, the trigger only travels 3/8". Here's a few pictures for reference (you can also see trigger guard clearances): Full forward Full back And finally, maybe drill slightly deeper with the muzzle bolts. It appears the top of the head is flush with the thickness of the larger round area. Looking forward to your next post!!!!

LOL, really, I just photoshopped the whole thing. Thanks Lou!!! Now, I can finish my thread on building metal power cylinders and continue working up the courage to paint...

??? Hey Steve, are you going to be at the Chicago Comic & Entertainment Expo this weekend? Considering making the drive into the city with my lovely wife...

LOL - You were responding while I was editing - After I thought about it, I figured it was Spot Putty and not regular Bondo. Yeah, you could probably build an entire blaster with a gallon of Bondo...

When mixed properly with the correct creme hardener, Bondo should cure due to a chemical reaction which should "kick" about 10-20 minutes after you mix it. Too little hardener and it won't cure properly. Too much hardener and it will get HOT (due to an excessive chemical reaction). Other than precise measurement, I think the best way to judge the mix ratio is by color. If you mix up a batch that kicks off just right, remember the color. Judging by the color in your build, you may have been using Bondo Spot Putty. That is air dry and should only be used in very thin layers. It's purpose is to fill pinholes and very slight imperfections in regular Bondo. If it's too thick, I think it has a difficult time releasing the solvent which causes it to dry...

Second time with thinner strap material - should be a breeze this time!

OK, so I didn't take very many pictures while soldering, but I intended to do a post about it since it's a big part of assembling the gun. So here we go... First thing to understand is this ISN'T ordinary electrical solder. Gunsmiths use silver solder, which melts at a MUCH higher temperature. The silver content helps it to flow into the pores of the metal, which results in a higher tensile strength. True "hard silver" solder has a tensile strength of something like 70,000 psi, but the parts need to reach 1300 degrees before that kind of solder will flow. The flux is also much more aggressive - it contains acid and eats into the metal. The solder flows where the flux is. I also read silver solder won't fill any gap larger than 0.005", so dry fitting the parts is critical. I had two miserable failures before I achieved success. My best advice? Get everything as clean as you can possibly make it. Surgically clean!!! (almost exactly the same prep for TIG welding). Next comes FINDING the right silver solder. There must be at least 50 different kinds. Different silver contents, wire or ribbon, flux core or not, coated rods, etc., etc... The higher the silver content, the higher the price. The gunsmith stuff with the 70,000 psi tensile strength works out to about $70 for a normal size, 1 pound roll. I compromised. I won't be firing ammunition, so I don't need a crazy safety margin. With a lower silver content, the temperature to melt the solder is reduced and so is the price. Jewelers use this solder too and it's made in "extra soft, soft, medium and hard" (which melts at different temperatures, hence the ratings). They make their base connections with hard solder, then step through the softer grades as more pieces are added to their jewelry. Why? Because they can add a piece to their jewelry with medium solder without melting the hard solder. Then they can add another piece with soft solder without melting the medium solder and so on. After looking at a dizzying array of solders, temperatures and prices, I settled on Harris Stay-Brite. Some brewmasters use this exact solder to attach fittings to their stainless steel brewing vessels. Stay-Brite has a silver content of 4%, melts at 430 degrees and has a tensile strength of 25,000 psi. I probably won't be able to break it while trooping. Best part? They make a little job-sized kit with flux and solder for less than $20. I bought 2 so I'd have extra if I needed it - I didn't need it, so now I have a kit ready for the next project. Pay attention to details, watch Youtube videos, read the website. Oh, and I was able to buy it locally at the Grainger store. My process went something like this: 1. Fit all the parts. Adjust as required to get the tightest possible fit. 2. Wipe the area down with rubbing alcohol on a clean rag (BEFORE sanding, to remove any oil or contaminents). 3. Sand the area VERY well (I used 100 grit sandpaper). 4. Wire brush everything with a stainless steel wire brush used ONLY for clean things. 5. Wipe everything down with rubbing alcohol again (I use new paper towels to ensure everything is clean). 6. Assemble parts. 7. Trace around the parts with a pencil. "Shade" in a perimeter with the pencil lead (solder won't stick to pencil lead). 8. Disassemble and add flux to both the parts that will be bonded. 9. Reassemble. 10. Using a propane torch, start "preheating" a large area AROUND the parts (just warming things up). 11. Slowly circle in towards the parts. WATCH the flux while moving closer. It will bubble, then go dry, then turn "dirty" looking, then melt. 12. When the flux melts, it's the right temperature to add the solder. 13. Remove the heat and add the solder around the edges of the parts. If done at the correct temperature, the solder will "wick" under the parts. 14. Handy tip: Have a clean wet rag nearby. When you've added enough solder (or even too much), use the rag to lightly "swipe" along the edges. 15. Be careful not to disturb the parts - the solder will likely still be molten. Allow the parts to air cool. DO NOT quench in water - it will weaken the joint. 16. Once cool, clean up any residual flux and/or solder. I do this by "spot" heating and wiping with the wet rag. If successful, you should have a strong, bright solder joint. I hope this is helpful or at least informational. I learned about solder from this project - I had NO IDEA there were so many different types and uses! Until next time...

See Tim, you're scaring people with your skillz. You should just stop now and send your blaster to me...

Hang in there Derek. Personally, I like the name of your threat - it's unique! I like the "boo boo" pictures - accidents happen to the best of us and I enjoy seeing how different people resolve their issues. Lots of times, I'm surprised and even learn things to make me a better builder - for instance, Dark CMF once posted about always storing epoxy syringes with the tips UP so air bubbles float to the top - Who knew? So, I added something new to my "toolbox". Also, it might help someone realize it's not as bad as they think when they see someone correct a problem and you can't even see it in the finished product. Do you know the difference between master and apprentice carpenters? They both make mistakes - the master just knows how to hide them. Sure, there's a million other E-11 build threads, but I always read the new ones, even if they're the same pictures and assembly because each person has a different personality and/or way of presenting their material. Your thread may click with someone and inspire them!

Steve: Installing an original barrel would solve the problem nicely, but at that point, I would have a fully functional machine gun. The back end of the original barrel is really thick plate. I think it was intended to take the punishment of automatic fire. The bolt has to slam forward into this plate to "seal" the chamber as a round is fired. I like your idea of a rubber cushion. When I fabricate a fake barrel, I may slightly shorten it by the thickness of a HARD rubber pad. Either way, I think the bolt is hardened steel - I don't think I can damage it. The cocking channel slot took some very minor damage because it was never intended to absorb that kind of force. With the barrel and the thick backing plate installed, the charging handle physically won't be able hit the end of the cocking channel. Original barrels:

Germain: I could swap to a softer spring, but then that gets me into "there should be 11 coils showing in the cocking channel". It's a pretty stout spring, but that makes sense to me considering it has to push a heavy bolt back into position quickly when firing full auto. When the bolt slams forward, the sound is definitely an attention getter - it's like the universal deterrant sound of racking a shotgun shell. No mistaking it. Although the sound will be a little different than standing right next to it, I'll post a video as soon as I get a barrel made - I don't want to risk any more damage to the cocking slot. I've disassembled and reassembled enough times now that I think with a few tools, I could field strip the whole thing in less than a minute. Fabricating a fake barrel, then upgrading to a real barrel in the future is totally possible.

You look good in armor! I can only hope mine comes out as well. I got a kick out f the TD clips - those seem like one of the simplest things to me - we all have different backgrounds! I'd much rather make TD clips than tackle ears or a sniper knee!

Germain: I know EXACTLY how you feel - in fact, I've had painting in the back of my mind for the entire build. Wondering if I should paint, then expose real metal for the weathering or if I should go with a painted weathering. I've NEVER done any kind of weathering, so that has me more scared than anything. In my opinion, it would be a colossal FAIL if one of these wonderful resin builds ends up looking more realistic than my steel build... Absolutely, I will add an inner barrel, but probably for a reason you may not have considered... Since everything is functional, I can actually charge the bolt. It pulls back, then glides forward until it hits the sear. When I pull the trigger, the sear drops and the bolt SLAMS forward. Normally, the back end of the barrel would stop the bolt. Without the barrel, the only thing left to stop it is the cocking handle...the handle hits the end of the cocking channel with enough force to "deform" the edge. I'll post a picture of this later. I've already repaired it once, then accidently did it again. An original barrel assembly (with threaded holes for the muzzle bolts) is $150. That's pretty salty considering how much I've already invested. I think I will fabricate a fake inner barrel with two steel plates and a tube.

I know resin is "soft", but do you think a tap would cut threads to avoid the blowout? I only ask because with my E-11 approaching 10 pounds, it looks like I WILL be doing a PVC pipe build... Nice repair. Just when I think you can't possibly add any more details, you do. LOVE this build and will use it as a guide for my PVC build!

I received my silver solder today and went right to work. It's pretty late and I still have minor tweaks and clean up, but everything is attached and functional. Here's a couple sneak previews (no cliffhangers!): Next step is to cut down the 34 round magazine!

Would it be possible to create a plans/blueprints download area? I have E-11 templates, but the file is 14.7MB (It includes instructions and the Sterling manual Locitus uploaded). Since Darth Voorhees released his new DVH kit, I'm getting lots of requests for the template, which has to be emailed because it exceeds the 512KB we're allotted for attachments. I'd also love to see all the Billhag drawings in this area - I save them whenever I find them in a thread, but it sure would be convenient to have them all in one place. I think such an area should be "locked" so nobody can upload plans unless they're approved, but anybody could download, whenever they want. Thoughts?

Hi Mike, I haven't worked with a DVH kit, but I'm guessing your 1.5" PVC is too big. I've covered this in some other pipe build threads. For comparison: Real Sterling receiver O.D. (outside diameter) = 1.50" 1.50" PVC pipe O.D. = 1.900". 1.25" PVC pipe O.D. = 1.660". 1.00" PVC pipe O.D. = 1.315" I have a nice template for the 1.25" PVC pipe. It's the closest to the real receiver size. This makes your PVC build about 10% larger than a real Sterling, but nobody really notices. The template has been adjusted for the size difference so everything ends up in the right place. Just shoot me a PM and I'll send you a template.

The Hobbies of Vader... VERY entertaining! Looks like the next one in the series might be even better!

Fleming's Ref and Sport is out of Under Armour Heatgear compression pants and has no restock date.

Rigged like bingo at the retirement home... UNLIKE!

You've got it right Derek. Bolt first, recoil spring behind the bolt and the cap last to hold it all together. And thanks for your compliments on the template!

Seriously, THAT might look cool in a dark room! I think you're onto something there, Ian! Funny related Air Force story: I lived in a dorm in South Korea. My neighbor and I shared a bathroom. He was a good guy and we worked in the same squadron together. One night, he was depressed because his wife was having their second child and the Air Force wouldn't grant leave to anyone because of some shady things going on up in North Korea. He had a little too much to drink and thought it would be fun to play with some of those chemical "light sticks" - the ones you snap, shake and they glow for a few hours? He cut a few open and poured the liquid into a running fan... Don't know why, but I was there to witness the aftermath. He knocked on my door and told me I needed to see something really cool. I walked into his darkened room and after my eyes adjusted, it looked like we were standing in a little galaxy. Really cool! That is until he found out the next morning that the phosphor in the glow chemical EATS plastic. EVERYTHING plastic in his room had little "pock mark" holes eaten into it - TV, stereo, CD's, alarm clock, phone... An expensive night for sure, but it was cool for a few hours while trying to cheer up a sad friend.

After your tremendous blaster build, I can't wait to see the armor posts!!!!

Hmmm, you would think the Cuddle Bunny award would be announced sometime BEFORE Easter? The people at Grandparents.com must have dozed off on this one...