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Thanks, Mathias. You're absolutely right. I just want to be sure I don't invest a mountain of time into something that doesn't meet the standard from the beginning. There's definitely a shape difference beyond just the neck trim positioning, but it does line up perfectly with the S-trim joint. I never noticed it until Vern "pointed" it out. I suppose you notice these things when you're a veteran and you see different helmets frequently. Here's a screen shot showing the pointy shape...

Honestly, I got COMPLETELY DEMOTIVATED by the whole "point on the cap back" thing... For what it's worth, too much ABS to move without a form, and too much work to make a form for such a small detail. At one point, after researching screen shots for an hour or two, I was ready to GIVE UP and just make a Stunt. But that means I would have to use the iron to add the 4th tooth back into the frown on both sides...AND I HATE REWORK. To get the cap back "point", it just seemed to make more sense to BUY a hero helmet - my free time is RARE and worth far more than the cost of a different helmet. So I looked at a TM hero helmet...and didn't really see much of a point there...WTF? I experienced MASSIVE frustration over a very trivial difference and then I found out the TM hero helmet doesn't have it either. Moving on. Almost over it. I looked at some hero EIB applications and found those didn't really have a cap back "point" either. Does RS make a hero helmet? Does it have the cap back point? I know Vern's position, but what do the rest of you think? Is it worth it? Anyway, I got home from work last night and felt like doing some work, but I'm still MIFFED about the helmet thing. Moving on to the ears... I have a pair of ATA hero ears and the original AP ears that came with my armor. Three bumps on ATA, four bumps on AP. There's also a significant size difference and the color is slightly off. The AP ears are larger and pure white. The ATA ears are smaller and kind of an off-white. You can also see I'm going to have some slight forming work to do where the back meets the cheek tube - mine don't have very much curve and the fit with the cheek tube on the faceplate is bad. Granted, this area will be covered by the ear, but I'd like it to fit better. What I'd REALLY like are AP ears with three bumps, so that's what I decided to do. First step was to flatten the 4 bumps on the AP ear. I wanted an even surface to work with. I tried the hobby iron, but couldn't get enough heat into the whole area to get rid of the bumps. I decided to switch to a heat gun, but didn't want to warp the entire ear. I made some "heat shields" from a roll of cork gasket material. This allowed me to focus the heat from the heat gun without melting the whole ear. That worked pretty well and I managed to flatten the AP ear bumps to my satisfaction. Now I need a 3 bump form. I considered different materials and ultimately ended up deciding to use an oven-bake clay because I need something much hard enough to push against. I bought some white Primo! polymer clay at a Michael's craft store. I was concerned about possible color transfer onto the ABS, so white seemed like a good choice. I've never used polymer clay, but I've always been curious. I watched a few Youtube videos and conditioned my clay as suggested. I've convinced myself that what I'm about to do doesn't count as "recasting" - it's really more like "reshaping". I'm only using the ATA bumps to get the correct spacing. I think I'll probably need to build up the form because I won't be able to get enough heat into the ABS for a really good transfer. My form will need to be a little "taller" to achieve the same shape while using less heat. Hope that makes sense. With less heat in the ABS, the form will need to "push harder" to get the same shape. I pressed the clay into the ATA ear to get the 3 bump spacing. The clay deformed every time I removed it, so I couldn't get a really good impression. I tried wax and mold release on the ear, but the clay is really sticky. I made the best impression I could, then started sculpting to refine and clean up the shape. I made an inside and outside mold so I would be able to sandwich the ABS between them. Molds are sculpted, so now they go into to the oven to harden. The package says 275 degF for 30 min for each 1/4" of thickness. The molds are 1" thick, so I'll be baking for 2 hours. Then I'll try them out... Empire Bake Sale?

No press on the outside with the iron. Essentially, I didn't want anything touching the outside. I heat the ABS until it starts to "move", work it a little beyond where I want it, then quickly remove the heat and blow on it so it cools and stops moving. Teeth marks are cut "barriers". Think - DO NOT cut past these lines. I'll finesse the teeth the rest of the way open using a needle file (a lot more control!). And after searching and reading about EFX for an hour or two, I think I finally understand your comment about the "point" on the center of the cap and back. I'll really have to think about how to approach forming a point...at least long enough to build up the courage to try it. That's a HUGE area of ABS to move. I would only try that with a large form or buck to press from the inside. Potentially worth it though, because the sides of the AP cap and back need more curvature to meet up with the faceplate cheeks. One side of my cap and back has very little curvature and does not match up to the cheek very well. Just in case, how much is a replacement cap and back? Risky, but potentially worth the reward...

Thanks, Steve. It's more patience than talent, but thanks! I'll take it!

Thanks, Vern. That's the kind of feedback I was looking for. Can you define or direct me to a picture of the "point at the center of the cap n back"?

Looks like the real deal! Your thumb also looks about 71 years old with weathering . EXCELLENT WORK! Unbelievable realism. FINALLY, a great use for a white crayon! And I assume you can at least see light through the scope? On one hand, you're pushing the limits of what is possible with a resin build, but on the other, you're making me think twice about posting my build... We're not worthy!!!

Hi all, I started building and taking pictures for a possible future AP build thread. I woud really like to make Hero armor, but my AP kit doesn't offer that helmet option, so... Straight out of the box, I thought I'd attempt to modify the faceplate to give it a Hero frown. I don't know if this is "frowned" upon, but I was told AP armor could be made into Hero as long as it meets the visual requirements. I've built half a dozen RC airplanes, so I'm pretty comfortable with a hobby iron, or in my case a "Monokote Sealing Iron" (it's used to heat and shrink the plastic film covering on RC airplanes). If I don't succeed, then I will change the remainder of the build to Stunt. Better to know what I'm building from the start. While I was inside the faceplate with the hobby iron, I straightened out some of the 'lip ripples' caused by the teeth impressions. I don't want it to be perfect (retain some 'wonkiness'), but I did want to provide a little more definition by straightening the edge of the lip. Very subtle, but I think it makes a difference. BEFORE: AFTER: BICEPS: Next, it seems like I've heard it's a good idea to build the biceps first. Not sure why - maybe because they're small and help you get a feel for the process before moving on to larger parts. Anyway, I researched lots of builds and looked at lots of pictures. From what I can tell, each type of armor has a SLIGHTY different shape bicep. Some line up well, others do not. Since I don't want to buy replacement parts, I figured it would be a good idea to check everything multiple times before cutting. I noticed with my AP biceps, if I cut on the pre-marked 'lines', I'll end up with some of the aforementioned 'mis-alignment'. I cut wide and left extra material in the misalignment areas. I thought maybe I could 'reform' the edges with the hobby iron to 'cheat' them back into alignment. I'm looking for opinions on whether this matters or not (I realize these particular edges will be mostly hidden by the shoulder bells, so while not a big deal, probably one of the better places to experiment). Will the proposed modification detract from what's expected of AP armor? Or will the modification improve the armor with my own personal 'fit and finish'? What do you think? Thanks in advance for the collective wisdom of the FISD!!! Aaron

I'm really happy the boot scuff requirement was removed and I'm glad I came across this thread because I thought it was still a Centurion requirement. I think there are still Centurion "picture" references which show boot scuffing as required - I look at these references while building... From now on, I think I'll just be using the 'official' checklist.

I'm assembling AP armor too, but haven't even thought about the rear yet...guess what I'll be trying on for size when I get home?

More coming soon, I promise! On Saturday, I took an unplanned 4 hour drive to pick up a 392 hemi crankshaft for another project and I got called into work this morning. Not sure how long I'll be at work today...

Is this the same as Trooperbay? ---------

Believe it or not, we actually have a specification at work for cleaning parts that will be used in oxygen service - hydrocarbons and oxygen go BOOM! The specification calls for warmed Simple Green. Smells good, doesn't melt plastic. When you think the parts are clean, you give them one more wash with fresh Simple Green, then perform a "mirror test" - the used solution is dripped onto a mirror. When it evaporates, there shouldn't be ANY residue left on the mirror. Otherwise, you start cleaning again...

Trooping with the Stars?

Hi Germain, Yes, I like shape A from Andy's research. The wings are already on the base plate - I just had not cut them out yet when I mocked it up for the photo. You can see the scribe lines in the Dykem blue. They're cut out and bent now. Next step is soldering the pieces together. Stay tuned!

Another size reference...this is the small trooper (3 5/8 inches tall)...

Sooooo busy at work.... no. time. to. post... Just thought I'd jump in here and post a picture or two. Found a new source for better parts at the auto parts store this weekend...more to come. You really CANNOT appreciate how SMALL this whole assembly is until you try to build one from scratch... This is how I relax after a long day...I MUST be going insane.

Unfortunately, I missed the first "airing" of the new episode, so I'm watching the encore now. Excited, based on your comment!!!

I don't see joining the 501st or FISD any differently than joining the military or a world-class corporation. Those organizations have specific standards which must be met as a requirement of service or employment and so does the 501st. When you decide to join, you're becoming part of a team and should be willing to set aside your personal agenda for the greater good. After serving with many different units in my miltary career, I agree a real Death Star trooper squadron would be held to the absolute HIGHEST standards, as this would be considered an "elite" assignment, like military honor guards or demonstration teams. Do you think the president has random enlistees on his personal detail or flying Air Force One? Any violation of standards while serving these high visibility assignments comes with severe consequences. Those soldiers represent "best" of our military and are often in the public eye. Seems like this would also be the case with an assignment on the Death Star. I think it's safe to assume "Mr. Anomolies" were swiftly dispatched to menial assignments (or worse!) the day after film crews left... which means those troopers would no longer be assigned to the unit... Who wants to be the guy that got kicked out of an elite unit?

Thanks, Tim. I thought I could "get away with" the 2-56 size, but at this scale, even the slightest difference is obvious. I've been talking to Andy offline and ordered the correct 10BA nuts and screws. I've been working close to 70 hour weeks at my job, but hopefully, I'll have time to build more on my cylinders this weekend... And there was a "big brown box" on my porch when I arrived home tonight! I've got a lot to do, but that box is going to have to wait a few weeks...

I'm using 2-56 nuts and screws. I think they also have 1.5mm and 2mm. The guy at the hardware store said lots of guys come in looking for these tiny nuts and screws to repair fishing reels. Huh...wouldn't have thought of that. I'll try to swing by the hardware store tomorrow on my way home from work! Thanks for helping make these power cylinders even better!

SWEEEEET! Nice epoxy instructions. I had never thought about storing an epoxy syringe "tips up". I opened the cabinet and checked - sure enough, big air bubble down near the plunger on mine. Not anymore! Learn something new everyday...check! The videos are a excellent feature too!

Update #2: "Vent Hole Removal" Well, I really can't remove a hole...I could TIG weld the ends and blend the weld back down to the correct shape, but that's a lot of work for what it's worth... AND, I thought I could make these look much better. I'll consider my first post a "test pass". So, good and bad luck this weekend - my WELL stocked local hobby shop announced they will be going out of business. The owners are in their 70's and ready to retire. Their business is THRIVING, but due to the economy, banks won't give anyone a loan to take over the business - at least a dozen people have tried already. Apparently, the $250,000 worth of inventory doesn't count as collateral. The owners have never posted a help wanted ad...EVERY employee is a veteran at their hobby and has been working at this store for as long as I can remember. They were long time customers and got hired through friendships with the owners. Really sad. On the plus side, the store is liquidating everything - I bought ALL the Humbrol Dark Admiral Grey, French Blue and Midnight Blue that was left on the display - 9 little cans of paint for $1 each. I also stocked up on supplies at a great price. They even had someone's VINTAGE Star Wars toys for sale. Mint toys in perfect original boxes - that brought back some memories. Hope they have a happy retirement. Anyway, although it looked OK, the solid bar stock was heavier than I wanted. During my hobby store shopping spree, I found the correct size aluminum tubing. This would be lighter and easier to work and finish. I wrapped the tubing with masking tape to prevent scratches while working. Thought I'd make an extra set since I'm doing all the tool setups, plus it gives me "spares", just in case. Four tubes cut to length and deburred. Cutting the slot, then shaping the flat bottom with a very small file. Germain - this one's for you! I cut a slot on ONE END ONLY. Duh...but a fine excuse to make it better! Also, a few bits I gathered from around my shop for the internals. I believe Andy's research showed there was a ceramic insulator inside the tubes... I clipped the end off an electrical crimp terminal. I think the red plastic looks cool and it should POP against satin black. As an unintended bonus, the aluminum tip is still left inside the crimp termial, so if you're looking really close, it LOOKS electrical. Epoxy will hold everything together, but on the slight chance the little red plastic tips get knocked loose during combat, I clipped a piece of Scotchbrite pad and compressed it into the tube. That will keep the tips in place and prevent them from rattling around - THAT would annoy me. I'll mask the slots before painting. First one assembled. Two assembled with better lighting. I still need to trim the screws, but I left them long for now, so I can chuck them up in my drill to help with "finishing". I like my plastic tips! While getting ready for bed and thinking about my next steps, I realized I'd made a TRAGIC error. How am I going to push these through the holes in the bracket with the end caps epoxied in place??? Ahhhhhh!!! Plus, the cylinders are tiny and fairly fragile - no way I could chuck them up in the vise and use brute force to knock the caps off. Heating with a torch would loosen up the epoxy, but they're so small, they'd end up burnt to a crisp and all the internals would melt. Needless to say, I didn't sleep well. When I got home from work, I wrapped the cylinders LIBERALLY with electrical tape - like 10 layers. I chucked the cylinders in the vise tight enough to hold firm, but not enough to crush the aluminum tube. Using a jeweler's screw driver as a tiny punch, I gently tapped with a small hammer, working my way around the lip of the cap. The epoxy broke and I was able to slowly work the cap off. Disaster avoided -whew! I like these cylinders A LOT more than the first pair! Next installment will be bracket fabrication and "capacitor shaping" using aluminum spacers and little plastic discs. Thanks for watching! Aaron

Walking Dead is over, so PLEASE post up your pictures....LOL!

Thanks Germain! And you certainly have an eye for detail (I think you're the one who caught Dark CMF's bayonet lug backwards) Looks like I'll be making 2 more of these today...that's what I get for not having a reference picture while building! I got carried away with all the fun of this! The "slot" will be filled with something to simulate the inner "tube" or ceramic insulator. Thanks again!

Hi troops, This is my first "build thread", so go easy on me... I'm new here, waiting on AP armor and feeling inspired by some of the incredible builds I've been following (like the Dark CMF and gazmosis E11 builds). Work is in progress for my all steel E-11 build and I'm collecting pictures for a future build thread. Today, I decided to try my hand at making my own version of the power cylinders. If you haven't done so already, you should read PlayfulWolfCub's threads about the power cyclinders! The research is interesting and amazing. Andy's power cylinders take "screen accurate" to a whole new level. The resulting product is mind-blowing, but expensive. Resin copies may be available someday and I think DoopyDoos also offers a resin version. I thought I'd try something in between. My cylinders will be metal and make a reasonable attempt at looking accurate using without going into zinc plating, etc. I'll also try to use readily available materials which anyone should be able to find at a hardware store. I like to think of them as "blue collar" power cylinders. So, here we go: Materials: I started with the cylinders, since I figured that would be the most difficult part to make. In future posts, I'll move on to the capacitors, resistors, wires, etc. I already had most of this in my shop, but you should be able to find most of it at any hardware store. 3/8" steel bar stock (6"), 3/8" steel cap nuts (4), 2-56 nuts (4) and 1/4" 2-56 screws (4). I bought a few extra nuts and screws just in case one gets lost or dropped (these things are impossibly SMALL!) I included a nickel and a Euro (for the European peeps) in the photo as a size reference. First step is too tap a cap nut onto the bar stock Chuck the bar into a vise with the cap at the top. Mark and center punch the center of the cap. I "eyeballed it" because trying to mark and measure centerlines at this scale is tough. Just make a dot with a fine tip Sharpie. If I ever make more of these, I'll likely invest in a jeweler's loupe - kind of like goggles with magnifier lenses. I think that's what they're called... Drill a hole in the center of the cap. I used a 5/64" bit to give me a little adjustment in case my hole is slightly off center. The center punch is critical, otherwise your drill bit will likely "wander" all over before "biting" and your hole will likely end up way off center. Andy told me the hardest part about power cylinders is there's almost NO ROOM for error at this size. He's right! I gave myself a 1/64" margin for error. The nut will still cover that margin. Next step is to remove the shoulder off the cap nut. The cap nut looks like a little top hat - we're removing the brim and leaving the top. There are little "teeth" on the cap. When you get close to removing the entire shoulder, those little teeth will fall off and leave sharp edges. I did mine on a belt sander, but with some determination, you could probably do this with a Dremel. So, now it's starting to look like the cap on an E11 power cylinder, but it's still too deep. PlayfulWolfCub posted measurements years ago. Those measurements say the cap is 4.76mm deep. I'm shooting for something between 4-5mm. Remove the cap from the steel bar. I placed the edges of the cap on the jaws of the vise (not tight) and tapped a finishing nail through the hole. Careful the bar doesn't fall on your foot when it drops out - you are wearing steel toe boots in the shop, right? Now, HOW am I going to reduce the depth on these tiny pieces without sanding off my fingerprints and/or shooting them across the garage floor, never to find them again? I found a really small wood screw and mounted the cap "backwards" on a scrap of wood. Actually, I use this particular scrap along with a twin when clamping small items in my vise. It's been used on lots of other projects, which is why there are other holes drilled in it. Back to the belt sander. Go EASY with these. Very little pressure. Let the sandpaper do the work. They'll get hot FAST because they're so small, there simply isn't enough material to act as a heat sink. Cap depth reduced to about 4.5mm. Rinse and repeat. Two caps done. Moving on to prepping the bar stock... In trying to maintain some semblance of accuracy, I decided to cut a slot in each end of the bar. Later, I'll add a small colored chip of clay or plastic to replicate the ceramic insert of the originals. Again with the centerline - I eyeballed the center and marked the line with a Sharpie. According to the measurements, I needed to make these slots about 8mm deep. I measured 8mm from the end, scored a very small line with an ice pick, then wrapped a piece of masking tape around the bar at the line. I'll then cut the slot down to the tape and no further. I used a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut the slot, but a hack saw would probably work too. You're wearing your safety glasses, right? Cut the bar to length. Measurements say the power cylinders are 48.5mm long (INCLUDING CAPS). Each cap is about 1mm thick. So, I did some quick math - I'll make my cylinders 49mm long (who could spot 0.5mm difference besides Andy?). 49mm - 2mm (for 2 caps) = 47mm. The screws in each cap need a little space. I suppose you could just glue the nuts onto the cap, but I'm a big fan of mechanical attachments. I hate depending on glue alone (yeah, just wait till you start building armor...) I dremeled out a little hole with a small stone bit. I just kept working the hole until the screw head dropped below the edge of the bar (that sounds like a bad date!) Assembling parts!!! One cylinder complete, rinse and repeat. Trim the screws to your liking. I thought about this for a few days before attempting to build anything...here's a side-by-side picture of other ideas I had. Spare your self time and money by NOT thinking any of these other ideas might work...you saw it right here - MAJOR DIFFERENCE! I should be able to crank out another cylinder pretty quickly...working out how to do things and the order of operations takes the most time. Now that I have a procedure, it shouldn't take long to duplicate. Next post, I'll cut the base plate. Hope you enjoyed my very first build post! Please comment! Till next time, Aaron