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It seems you're close enough, but just to be clear, it appears you're measuring with a standard tape measure, NOT metric. I assume you know this, but thought it might be worth pointing out if you don't - that could throw off a lot of measurements...

NICELY DONE STEVE!!! I'm proceeding with the slow clap Tim started earlier. TRULY inspiring!!!

Look for a thread named "MIC TIPS MIC TIPS MIC TIPS" by keith in the ongoing sales area. Keith's mic tips are cast from an original and have the "Hovi Mic" script. The sniper knee should be held on with glue only.

If you decide to go for EIB, you'll have to replace those tips since they're not Hovi's... I've never understood why AP doesn't include the correct tips with the kit...

Very cool! Enjoyed the captions. Thanks for posting!

I recognize the greasy paper - It worked well, but is that not the stinkin'est grease ever? Grease was LOADED under the spring steel catch on mine. I carefully removed the center rivet so the stock could be cleaned as two pieces. I soaked the folding part in paint stripper for a few days to soften up the grease, then worked the rest out with toothbrushes, toothpicks, strips of cloth and whatever else I could find to complete the cleaning. Make sure you exercise the plunger too - it was also loaded with grease, ready to spurt out at the worst time (especially bad if you haven't painted yet). Happy to see you doing this mod, but sorry you did all the detailing on your resin stock for nothing more than experience!

DONE. Troopers helping Cuddle Bunnies!

NICE! Love your username! I'll be following your build as I'm slowly building an AP kit right now. There don't seem to be many AP build threads, so this is invaluable to me. Thanks!

HOT!!! You're getting there! I'd like to see a full blown disco trooper to match your other helmet! I know it's a test fitting, so everything is just hanging loosely, but I'm wondering are the shoulder straps attached? The back needs to be much higher and the chest needs to drop a little. I know someone suggested shims for the thighs - maybe ask for expert opinions on tapered shims? Wider at the top of the thigh to almost nothing at the bottom - otherwise you're going to end up with a ton of gap around your knees. I think Panda trooper coined the phrase "church bell thighs" for trooper thighs that swing around the knees while walking. There's got to be a way you can get a nice fit and achieve a tapered look. I know you're 5'2", so cutting the cod was probably a great move for getting a better fit. I'm considering the same modification. I'm 5'4" and expect to be making EXTENSIVE modifications. So far, I have the shoulders, biceps and forearms finished and haven't run into a single issue. My wife says it's because I'm stocky and "solid". Wha? I'm taking it as a compliment. I'll start the torso next, where I expect to be trimming every piece and forming new return edges. I'm DREADING the thighs - my wife says I have "superhero" thighs and if she had her way, I'd be walking around all day, every day, in Spandex bicycle shorts (I climb several thousand feet worth of ladders every week at work). As far as my armor thighs are concerned, I think they'll fit without shims, but I already know I'll be trimming quite a bit from the length. When I initially tried them on, my knees were pretty much INSIDE the thighs. Not good. And now for something completely random...I've even considered starting a thread about this...Armor building time is my escape from the world and decompression time from the rest of the day. As such, I disappear into the shop and crank my Bose with either new music or old favorites. Tonight, I discovered a great band and a really nice track when I started reading your post. In my mind, you're now forever associated with Porcupine Tree "Flicker". Any inspiration music while you're building? Looking forward to more updates, especially the final thigh solution!

I didn't know there was a difference - I thought Bapty was just the gun shop that made the original E11's. The pictures look like a solid casting? Aluminum?

I'm almost hesitating to post since you got replies from the "major league" blaster builders in less than a day. I'm not worthy!!! If I could ever get off work for more than 8 hours, I would start my steel pipe build - I've got everything for the build (and more) just laying on the workbench. Aside from the weight difference you mentioned already, attaching resin components securely might be an issue. I plan to TIG weld a new receiver tube to a real Sterling parts set, then use silver solder to attach the remainder of the components. Then there's the legal issue of physically ensuring this new weapon CANNOT be fired. My steel tube matches the original parts EXACTLY. 1.5" OD X 0.065" WALL X 1.37" ID. If it weren't for my ability to TIG weld, I'd probably go for the DVH pipe build. Good luck with your decision and can't wait to watch your build!

I'll concede the iPhone analogy isn't the best. I think MTK is acceptable because the molds were purchased or authorized by the original sculptor. A recaster has no authorization. A recaster is making money from someone else's hard work. That's my understanding. I lived in Korea for a year - almost everything I bought there was a knockoff. I bought a pair of Nike Air Max running shoes and the thread used to sew the shoes together literally disintegrated after about a month, but I could buy about 4 pairs for the price of 1 real pair.

If you buy a stolen iPhone you might get a good price, but it's STILL a stolen iPhone. That's bad. If you buy recast armor, you might get a good price, but it's STILL recast. That's bad. Even if the armorer reworks the molds, they're still partially stolen work from someone else. Adam Savage did an interesting interview on 'Tested' about recasting - he basically said a recast was ONLY acceptable for PERSONAL use (if you must have something that's rare for your own collection), but if it would be used in public or intended for resale, then it is NOT acceptable. Why even tempt that line when you can get perfectly acceptable armor from a vetted supplier at a similar price?

FREAKIN' AWESOME!!! NICE WORK! <fist pumps> This guy has unbelievable skills with power tools! You're the man, Tim!

Great build and good luck with your application. I'm pretty sure you've inspired more than one person. I STILL laugh every time I think of the engineer asking if you want to "touch the helmet". And I think messed up hair at the end of a troop just makes it look like you've spent a long day battling rebel scum. Can't wait to see your application thread!!!

Power cylinder nuts and bolts are a 10BA British thread which you likely won't find in the U.S. I tried the 2-56 nuts I saw suggested elsewhere on the FISD, but now that I have the correct nuts and bolts, I can assure you 2-56 nuts are about twice as big as 10BA nuts. If you MUST have the correct nuts and bolts, I suggest contacting Andy (PlayfulWolfCub) - he might be willing to sell you a set. Scope: All I could think while scrolling down through your pictures is: He's going to do it, he's going to drill all the way through! But, you stopped. I know there's an offset and you'll have to keep reducing bit size, but it would drive me nuts not to be able to AT LEAST see light through the lenses you worked so hard to install. I know the resin must be really thin in some places, so the risk is big, but I think the reward of seeing light through the scope would be huge. Charging bolt handle: For some reason, I can't wrap my head around how you intend to install the charging bolt into the receiver with the handle installed - that seems like an impossible problem to me. I'm wondering why you don't drill an access hole the size of your screwdriver tip in the gun, opposite the screw? This hole could be drilled anywhere along the length of the receiver opposite the charging handle slot (assuming the bolt will slide forward). Install the bolt, line it up with the hole, insert the screw and tighten. Then fill the access hole and paint. Perhaps this presents other issues I'm not considering... Trust me, I'm not criticizing - This is probably my favorite build - no offense to Tino or Steve, because those are great too. Just offering suggestions. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!!!

Congratulations!!!!

Before cutting, I'd wait for responses from some of the veteran armor guys or maybe shoot a PM to Lady in White? Maybe they've got another trick...

It took a time or two to realize your username is Ericia spelled backwards... Maybe a third option besides shims or gym? By trimming the inner thigh slightly lower, you might be able to make up the gap. Also maybe lower the rear slightly to cover more black. If nothing else, I enjoyed drawing the picture!

Hoooo - ahhhh! Glad you're finally able to post again, I was having withdrawls! Nice Dremel...but it's nice to have the smaller rotary tool too. Each has it's merits. Very interested to see your counter come together!

Nice helmet! Thanks again, Manny. Those are going straight into my hero pictures folder.

Thanks Mathias, Tim, Germain and Manny! I will likely upgrade to a TM helmet someday - then I can enjoy "unmodding" my AP back to Stunt! It would be cool for AP to offer hero ears as an option, but I would certainly want to refine them more before sending samples to Mark - they still require a considerable amount of hand work. "You definitely have skills to pay the bills lol..." Manny, believe it or not, I'm in the midst of an incredibly difficult decision right now and your previously unheard quote is REALLY beneficial. I've been blessed with many gifts, but many go untapped because of my career in corporate America. I've worked at my company for the last 15 years and things are incredibly BAD right now. Double the hours for the same pay (salary), less benefits, extreme stress and no end in sight... From talking to friends, I know it's the same story at a lot of companies and it's not going to change unless I take the initiative to make a change for myself. I've been tossing around quitting to work someplace else or even working for myself. My wife stands behind me and I've got a great network of friends. Your timely quote serves as one more cog in the gears of change because I know I've been blessed with "skills to pay the bills". So, many, many thanks!!! Aaron

After digging through probably 50 screen shots, I finally found one that shows the "point". I agree, this probably happened when the cap back was pulled off the mold when still too hot. After looking at all the screen shots, LFL photos and reference photos from different exhibits, I'm pretty convinced the pointed back was on ONE hero helmet. I'm not worried about it anymore, but it was a lively discussion. Maybe I'll do it someday, but I'm going to proceed without the point for now. Thanks again Mathias and Germain!!!

OK, baking is finished, molds cooled. I used my cork "heat shields" and the heat gun to get the ear bump area really hot, then popped the ear onto the mold and sandwiched the other mold on top. Held together for a minute and pulled it apart. Pretty decent. Did some sandpaper cleanup and bumped up a few low spots around the edges with the hobby iron (ABS probably wasn't hot enough near the edges). And here you have it, world's first AP hero ear? AP hero on the left, ATA hero in the middle, original AP stunt on the right. Bad news is, I still have to make another one to match... And finally, while I was waiting for the oven, I decided to proceed with my bicep modification. I figure if it doesn't look right or I catch too much flak for not being screen accurate, I can always cut on the original line. I just like things to have a good fit and finish. You veteran guys are probably chuckling right now... I'll do my best. So here's how my bicep ended up in the misalignment area I talked about in the beginning of the thread. You can barely see it, but there's a slight impression for the original cut line about 1/2" from the top on the inside piece. This will allow a full length cover strip because it provides a place for the cover strip to "land" instead of being cut short to avoid the "misalignment area. With a shorter cover strip, the edge of the outside part is visible and it looks unfinished to me. Again, most of this will probably be hidden by the shoulder bell and will likely never be seen - but I'LL know it's there. Anyway, fun is over for today. Dinner time and the wife wants to go see Divergent tonight. Till next time, Aaron

Thanks, Vern. I appreciate your vote of confidence, but I seriously doubt I'm anywhere near the best work in the legion. I'm just screwing around trying to figure out how to do things to end up with a passable result. I AM HAVING FUN though!