usaeatt2

Fisheye camera lens?

<Rubbing hands together briskly> Can't wait to see this!!! VERY exciting! This is essentially where I'm at right now! Just cut my magazine last night!

Ronny, I'm not sure why you would need to reposition the magazine clip, but it is likely silver soldered onto the magazine like the rest of the parts. Heat the magazine to 1300 degrees to melt the solder and the clip should come off. Reposition and resolder.

Which is exact purpose of the video. Easier to watch it than explain it. The first 3 seconds shows the folded format, 1 mm of separation and the spring tension on the end cap.

Cool. Thanks guys!

Tino, Your end cap lock looks good to me. The end cap has to have clearance to move forward to clear the notches and to allow the folding stock to engage. The end cap can't move forward with the lock in the down position. When the lock is lifted, the end cap can be pushed far enough forward to allow rotation and removal. If the lock were any further back, you probably wouldn't be able to remove the end cap. Video:

I'm not sure if it's a TK number, but that would make sense. It's a "stylized" script usually on the bottom front edge of the left shoulder.

It fired real 9mm rounds this weekend, so you decide if it's incorrect or if I just "stuffed the components in"... Seriously? Here's the pictures I promised:

I've seen it in several posts and during troops. What are the markings on the bottom front of the shoulder and sometimes the chest? Do these markings affect EIB/Centurion?

Nice troop and good looking troopers!

John, I've been following along and think you did a really nice job. I also have a minor, but different question about your belt. I'll be curious to see what kind of response you get because I have a similar problem with my belt. You cut the 45 dergree angles on the 4 corners exactly as I had planned. Before making any cut or modification, I spend some time researching. I found some references which say the angles should be 45 degrees and should be cut only in the area that extends beyond the edges of the cloth belt. Your belt is 3" wide and it appears the ABS ammo belt is just slightly over 3" wide. If your ammo belt doesn't really extend beyond the edges of the cloth belt, how do you correctly cut the angles? I think your belt looks good, but I'll likely wait to see a response or your EIB application before making any cuts. I'd be delighted to see it meet approval so I could do mine the same!

Derek, I look forward to seeing your results and will try to help any way I can. In my short past on the FISD, I've found posting can be rewarding, but it can also be distracting - it's great for getting help from others with more experience, but it slows me down tremendously. Although I would have liked to post pictures of my TIG welding process, I didn't feel I could stay focused AND take pictures, so I decided to skip it in the interest of achieving the best result. Although we won't get to enjoy seeing your build step-by-step, I respect your decision. Ultimately, you're making a blaster for yourself, so just do what makes you happy. It doesn't matter what anyone else thinks. Above all, know that it's not a competition. We all have different skills. The only way you can get better at a skill is by practicing and learning. Good luck with your build!!!

NICE!!!

I believe thae piece in question had to be there to fire a blank round. By the way, you're missing a piece of the spring assembly...there supposed to be another metal cylinder at the end of the small spring. It depresses the firing pin from behind. I can post pictures later today if you'd like.

Just got home from C2E2. The ANOVOS costumes didn't look generic at all, in fact, I was very impressed. The prices weren't generic either... All SW related merchandise was "MSRP Pending". Their other soft costumes look DEAD-ON accurate in color, texture and hardware. Someone obviously did their homework. Example of prices? Men's Premier Line Next Generation Full Uniform - $1000. Admiral Kirk Premier Line Wrath of Khan Uniform - $2400. Men's Premier Line TOS Shirt - $325. You get what you pay for?

Tim... you actually made me laugh out loud!!! Oh, the stories I could tell...like the scene with Captain Quint and Hooper in Jaws. To this day, I've got a 9mm bullet in my right lung from a gun malfunction at the firing range with a State Trooper buddy of mine (the law enforcement kind of trooper). Sorry to hear about the burn - those leave a lasting impression and I bet you won't do that again anytime soon. I find I make less mistakes these days, but only because I've learned the hard way. One more thing - my folding stock wanted to "bind or grab" while flipping back and forth. I drilled out the holes in the arms with the next biggest drill bit (if I remember correctly, Steve had this problem too). I think the pins were 19/64", so I drilled out the arm holes to 5/16". Now, the folding stock swings very easily with no binding.

Steroids. Hi Jacqui! Couldn't resist - it was the first thing that popped into my head. I'm 5'4" and 140 lbs. The armor bulks you up quite a bit, even when trimmed to fit well. With lifts, you'll only gain an inch or two (which isn't going to make much difference) and I don't know if lifts would be comfortable with TK boots (there's no laces to loosen up). I say just be comfortable with who you are and build your TK to fit well and look good. The galaxy needs more short Stormtroopers!

That's a nice setup your coworker Jason has! What's a workshop if you can't watch TV, use the computer, play games and listen to music? I keep telling my wife I need a urinal in the shop, and then I would never have to come into the house!!! It's a little late now, but you DO have another option. I hope you kept the original folding stock mount... You can heat it up and removed the mount. About 1300 degrees, or a dull red and the hacked up metal part will just fall off (make sure it doesn't land on carpet or a anti-fatigue mat and don't ask me how I know that). Then, either drill a hole for the locating pin or file it off. Epoxy it onto your blaster and you're done. Here's a picture of when I removed mine: I used an oxy/acetylene torch, but you could do the same thing with a propane torch - it'll just take a little longer. Maybe for the next build? As always, beautiful work and quite inspiring! Now, I'm going to watch the video Brian posted and take notes...

Not a problem - just trying to help! Do what makes you happy. If it's going to bother you, fix it so it doesn't.

If you build it, they will come.

Not a cap nut. Refer to the Sterling Handbook I sent with your template. That "blob" is the other end of the "trigger group retaining pin". It holds the trigger group in the trigger frame. The grip (just the plastic part) is attached with the allen head bolt (the one at the bottom of the grip). If you really want to go for this mod, I'd probably just drill it out and epoxy a ball bearing into the hole...but that's not going to look much different than what you've got now...

Just got home from C2E2. The ANOVOS costumes didn't look generic at all, in fact, I was very impressed. The prices weren't generic either... All SW related merchandise was "MSRP Pending". Their other soft costumes look DEAD-ON accurate in color, texture and hardware. Someone obviously did their homework. Example of prices? Men's Premier Line Next Generation Full Uniform - $1000. Admiral Kirk Premier Line Wrath of Khan Uniform - $2400. Men's Premier Line TOS Shirt - $325. You get what you pay for?

Heading over to C2E2 to check out these costumes in person. I'm loving the Bespin Luke outfit...curious to see if they have pricing yet... I'll try to grab more pictures!

No problem providing any picture you need for reference...just let me know! I got out my Doopy kit for comparison and noticed the trigger guard is shaped slightly different. Doopy likely modified the shape to provide a more secure way to attach a resin part. The original trigger guard has hooks that get pinned through the trigger group. This probably would have been too fragile on a resin part, so the ends were modified into "tabs" that are glued into slots. The overall shape is very similar; just the ends have a different curve, and of course the tabs are different. Back over to you, Derek - LEAD ON!