I'm Batman

How did you go? I had the same problem. After glueing the fronts, I forced mine closed, taped them nice and tight, then gave them a boiling water bath in the kitchen sink for 20 minutes or so. Worked out great.

After such inspiration from the current top quality build threads out there (I won't name names, cause I'll miss some no doubt - I'll give them credit during the build), I'm about ready to start my next build. Already have a Hasbro conversion, but now I'm ready for something a little more authentic. I will be stealing (borrowing/using) ideas from these other threads - working button on the counter, see through scope, moving inner bolt, working trigger, switches, and already have a real folding stock ready to go, to name a few. Which kit is going to best for me? Doopy's Pipe build, Doopy's full kit, DVH pipe build? Will the resin be strong enough to support a working folding stock, or will I need extra screws to support it, which means I won't be able to have a sliding inner bolt? With a thin pipe, will I need extra screws/pins, again meaning I can't have a moving bolt? I like the pipe build way as the thinner walls will make the sliding bolt look better. Full kit has T-Tracks pre installed and included. Is resin to resin a more solid joint, or is resin to PVC just as strong?

Unless you bought the pipe kit, which has NO hengstler and NO scope and NO T-Tracks, but does come with the inner bolt.

Look fine to me. You're possibly in the same boat as me. I want TK Boots so I don't have to dye them, but the postage (USD$57.50) is a killer!

And WOW! only 7 days from the UK to Australia. Excellent. Now to do some final fitting with my armor.

Nice looking MTK armor Jennifer. Love the action shot!

Mike (MTK) posted in this thread on page 1. PM him. Great to deal with.

If not, contact the maker if you know them, one of the others makers on here, or your local hobby/craft store. Just be wary that difference batches may be slightly different whites.

That link doesn't come in black pants. As RampantLion said, it doesn't look like you can get black tights anymore, and the tops are limited run out supplies too. Shame......

Yet another place to buy it.... My mate bought it direct from ------------- As I said, he reckons its great and a bunch of our local Garrison members did a bulk buy a while back which convinced me to order last night. Do your own currency conversions and get the best deal depending on postage. Oh, type in "501st Legion" to the stormtrooper undersuit cart and you get a 3 pound discount.

Thanks Adam! Now for some Sniper Plate help, please. I think there is not much I can do, but as I'll be going for Centruion eventually, I'll run it by everyone. I think the plate needs to line up vertically when looking at the front So when I do that, I just can't line it up perfectly on the sides. The two leg halves don't quite lin up either which would be contributing. This picture is taken from a little above horizontal to emphasise the variance in the lining up. And a couple of pics from below and above. Do you think it will be ok, of any suggestions to make it fit better?

Yeah, it's right. 2" is on the narrower limit, which is probably why it looks different. Mine is on the upper limit. Thermal Detonator For 501st approval: (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. This is an all gray cylinder without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2†(50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length should be approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). The thermal detonator shall be attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips approximately 1" (25mm) wide. For level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips must be positioned near the end caps with a approximate 1/8" (3 mm) gap. For level three certification (if applicable):

Wow, very impressive.

It looks long and skinny. That could just be the photo or my computer maybe. Do the measurements match the reference pics?

A bit more progress...... Made up some snap plates. Snap through one piece, then a second piece glued to the back, so the actual snap isn't against the armor. And Bam! Rear half snapped: Made up some cloth ones for the shoulder straps. Not sure why. Maybe because it's curved more there: And yes, my nice white strapping is now a bit discoloured, courtesy of: And, finally starting to actually get some armor put together. Gotta go, more work to be done.....

Gotcha. 7/8s would be perfect I think. All the recommendations I've seen suggest 20-25mm. So if that works for your size, fit and comfort and matches your calves, then you're sweet.

Doing a great job Bryan. To confer with the others, as long as your blaster has the necessary details and is to scale, which it looks from the pics, that yours is, then there should be now reason why it would not be approved for Centurion either. Keep up the great work. I reckon yours could be looking better most Hasbros and as good as any resin blaster out there. Question - What is your folding stock made from? Any close ups of where the pivot point is joined to the main pipe?

Those pencil lines look to be about half the width of your thumbnail. 7/8 = 22mm. That's one huge thumb you have there. It looks more like 10mm to me. Are you sure your measurements are right?

I'm sure Tim and Steve, and anyone else with a build happening aren't in 'competition' or offended in anyway. And for people like me, bring it on! The more totally awesome build threads I've got to refer to means (hopefully) a better looking baster than I would have otherwise made.

Thanks. Maybe I could give the snap another whack with the hammer. That might tighten it up a bit again.

So, I'm getting ready for actual putting together of the armor and have started getting my snaps ready. My first thought was to attach the snaps to ABS pieces and glue them to the amor. This seems fairly common. But the snap is a fraction of a mm proud of the ABS so will hit the armor. Too keep the metal snap away I thought I would heat and bend the ABS plate. Washer underneath, Heat Push down with custom 'pusher downer' It worked but now the snap spins in the ABS plate. I've obviously flattened the ABS section close to the hole. Will that be a problem if the snap spins when it's in the armor? Or should I attach a seconday plate to raise the snap up? (Sorry for heap of pics)

It's those little extra details that sets one apart from others. Well done Tim. They'll be a million of them next week

And rotate your pictures so I don't need to put my computer on it's side. Bit harder when it's a desktop

Yep, all good. Check some of the build threads - Have a look at my helmet in my thread. It was a shocker. Heaps worse than yours. (I thought so) No probs at all in the end.

I think it's something on how the arms are sitting. Your EIB thread looks a lot better, with the elbow gaps, that is. Perhaps the top of the forearmsmaybe a bit large which seems to emphasis the gap, I think.