I'm Batman

Looking good Steve. Keep it coming.

Large part of my forearms are right on 10.5. Wrists are about 6.5.

Thanks for everyones input. I'm building a MTK kit. It has ridges on all pieces, front and back, except the thighs - ridges front only. Thinking again, I reckon the biceps are fine, still a bit worried about the forearms, but I'll have to be careful that my hand can still fit through. Whereas the other forearm is probably ok, so might have to look for a compromise to keep them the same. All of the above are trimmed to allow 25mm strips based on one of the threads read. And I haven't got to the legs yet, but I'll take everything on board that's been discussed before trimming.

The answer I was hoping for. Thank you. Perfect answer! Thank you. Hadn't thought about keeping the front and getting rid the ridge from the rear. That will work and look better I think. Cheers.

So I've searched and found a few topics, but none of them really answer my question. Most talk about making thighs/forearms, etc wider, not narrower. This thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26168-ne-build-help-with-cover-strips/?hl=%2Bcover+%2Bstrip+%2Bjoining#entry330101 has quite a spirited discussion about where the cover strip shoudl finish in regards to the ridge on the armor. This thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21774-anh-coverstrip-method-for-eibcenturion/?hl=%2Bcover+%2Bstrip+%2Bjoining#entry271109 mentions they should be a particular size, and this thread (oops, look like I didn;t save it) mentions a different size. Below are two quotes from Troopermaster contradicting each statement, which makes me think that there is no exact science to it. "Only the movie suits had 20-25mm joining strips. In the replica costuming world where we have every different body shape known to man, the rules change. The joining strips should cover the ridge - period!" "if you have a wide flat joining area then I think it looks better to have a wider strip to cover it. You don't have to cover it completely, but a wider strip looks better than a thinner strip." Anyway, to my question - My forearms, legs, etc are quite skinny, and I think I will ned very narrow cover strips. I'm even measuring up and think I will need to cut off completely the 'flat sections' at the join of the foreams. If I end up leaving some of the ridge on, can I use a very narrow (say 8-10mm) coverstrip if I need to? I don't want to create another argument, but as I'm using CA Glue I won;t b ble to undo errors easily - Hoping the answer will be, use common sense or whatever you need to, to make it fit or something like that. Cheers

Well, she's screwed together. Bobby - yes, going for screen accuracy, so I might leave the gaps in the ears . For now, anyway. Will see how I feel later in the build. Here's a few pics: Can't remember the thread, but there is a ANH screen shot of a trooper with bigger gaps than this. You're right Bobby. I didn't notice. Still not 100% sure what I'll do at the bottom. I'll see what it lopks like when I put the S-Trim on and go from there. You're right James. Not a lot of room in these lids. Quite a bit smaller than the old FX. More to come....

Is that the white and orange Star Wars Rebels one you're referring to? I'm not an expert on Rebels, but it doesn't look like an E-11 to me. That barrell would require too much modification to make the folding stock worth it, I reckon.

I assume you mean the brow trim, near the Trap. If so, yes, I'm starting at that corner.

Thanks Mike. I'll trim the ears a bit more as you suggest. I know the armor (and helmet) isn't meant to be symetrical but I took some pics to show. First one, you get the idea that the back isn't even: With some tape down the centre, next one shows approx 105mm to the left edge and approx 125mm to the right. I wonder if it worth packing out the actual cap 'n' back, rather than trimming too much of the ear.

Ok, progressed some more on the ears this afternoon. I think I'm happy with the fit of them. They will sit a bit closer than most shots show once the screws are done up (it's hard holding top with one hand, bottom with one hand and camera with the other) However, it's that right hand side pictured in my earlier post that is still causing me grief. See how far the ear goes inwards. Not much I can do about it now. You can see te pencil line where the 'offcut' of ABS starts. I've even trimmed well above this. I'll keep going and see what happens.....

That's exactly what I need to do so the ear covers everything. Originally followed the trim line, but bymoving the ear (left) back by about 3mm, I'll need to trim it back some more. I'll try get some pics of that so future MTK builders will see what we're talking about. Edit - Pics added. Originally cut at the trim line, but for the ears to fully cover the join, I had to move the ear back and cut here:

Thanks for everyone's input. Most build threads don't show this part, so wasn't sure.... A bit more playing around with the ears last night, I realise that they will cover everything up. James, yes that brow cut was just very rough and curved so it didn't split until I worked out where to cut it. Fully trimmed now. Hadn't thought about the TD for the ammo belt. It needs to be pre curved does it? I'll try put that in the memory bank for when I'm up to there. Busy few days ahead now, so will post updates when I can. Cheers all. Ian

A bit more progress last night/this morning. Might need to check a few more Reference pics and trim a bit more of these: Eyes are ok, I think. Although I haven't fitted the brow yet, my concern is with the fit ofthe two halves. Does this approximate placement look right, and if so, will the ears and S-Trim tidy up the join? It's not looking too good at the moment

Lucky I did it with the dremel and not the 9 inch grinder!

Day 1 - Slow start, just a bit of trimming of some of the items. I think I need to trim the shoulder straps a few more mm either side. And the shoulder bells will obviously be trimmed later on fitting. But so far, so good I think.

. That's where need live Google Maps, or drones you can call on to find important stuff like this.

2 more hours till 4pm , then I can collect.

Thanks guys. Exactly my thoughts Glen. Yep Tim. Works a treat. Nothing got through the tissue paper. Just had to touch up the blaster at the front muzzle light. After that earlier photo, I pushed the paper in all the way so it wasn't in the way of the paint being sprayed. Pulled it out later with needle nose pliers.

Instead of the brown box photo, can I start with this. Tension is mounting........ 5 business days from USA to Australia. Now that is quick! Thanks Mike.

And I think she's done. Nothing too flash. The idea was to build a basic blaster. To show myself and others what can be done without actually doing too much. Basically a bit of glueing, only 2 bits puttied, and some basic dry brushing with Dark Metallic silver at the end. I did over do it in parts, so hit it with some sandpaper too. Now I have a super lightweight blaster ready for trooping with lights and sound that the kiddies will love. Full Doopy kit to come later.......

One thing to think about in my upcoming MTK build - Looking at this screen shot, the BIG gap is actually betwen the hand plate and the forearm, not the elbow whereas bzb has the big elbow gap. Might have to check out a few more screen shots. Although, I reckon the final 'action' shot above looks good.

Cause then you can trim it to YOUR size, not just about right that might need more trimming anyway. There's some good youtube videos on Trooberbay.com as well. Not perfect but will give you agood idea of what's involved.

And a coat of black paint after the grey primer. My matte black didn't turn out too matte. Still has quite a bit of a shine too it. Might just be able to scuff it up a bit with sandpaper, add some weathering detail (which will take me a while.....) Or is it too shiny and I should find some new paint?

Looking good Tim. I'm starting to follow this thread in readiness for my full Doopey build in coming months (after my Hasbro build) Would it not have been easier to trim a bit off the D-Ring instead, so then it wouldn't slide side to side - same design as the Doopey design?

Start here http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ then maybe some of the build threads and Expert Infantry/Centurian applications. See which set suits and start asking questions from there. Personally, I've just ordered a set of MTK armor (but not ever set suits everyone)