I'm Batman

LOL. Is that a reference to the late, great Steve Irwin? Or a commonly used term over there too? I've never bought any of those small magnets but i reckon there would be ample room. The only reason I went with this size is bacause there were a dozen or so on the fridge! I think you would only need one or two of those small high strength ones. When I started this build I honestly didn't think I would come up with anything new or exciting. It's great that we are all inspiring each other to come up with these ideas and improvements. Hopefully some of them can be passed on to many others to come.

Thanks guys. I Think I'm actually done! I put it together last night for a final inspection. Will take some pics before disassembly ready for painting. Arrrghhh, the P word....

Ahh, the ears. Everyone loves trimming the ears

Next is the magazine. not sure why I didn't discuss this earlier.... As pictured earlier I obtained one of the first edition magnificent creations from Gazmosis. It is truly a work of art requiring no modifications at all, oh, apart from green stuff repairing my own stuffup! Ok, laugh at me on this one.... The one thing I did do to the magazine set up, is made it removable! Hollowed out a cavity in both the magazine and the mag housing to accomodate a magnet. Epoxy'd the magnet in each half. You can't tell at all from the outside. Whether it proves to be practical or not, we'll see. If it falls out or gets stolen, Steve will have another sale.... Thanks for checking in.

A few more little completions happening. 1-The folding stock. Nothing too special here, as I've already documented installing the hinge point on about page 2 or 3. That is by far the hardest part. The rest just sort of fits into position. Or so I thought.... As seen on other threads, the stock slips over the hinge rods Then the outer pin slips in and the small pin slots in to hold it all in place. Back on day 1 or so, I positioned the folding stock into position and marked EXACTLY where the end cap MUST sit. It is critial this be correct with real folding stocks as the end cap is what holds thestock into position. It moves forward to allow the stock to swing into positon, then the cap springs back to lock the stock into final extended position. This is also why is was important for me to get a fuly functional spring as earlier discussed. I did have one glitch. The stock wouldn't lock into it's closed position,. Couldn't find out why, until I realisd the catch was hitting my inner barrel. To overcome this I cut out a notch to allow the catch move into position anganst the inner part of the receiver. And installed

Thanks Tino. Remember, completely different builds. You had a much smaller diameter of the Doopy to work with. I could work towards a little more accuracy with the larger pipe. Oh no, the dreaded painting question. I know, I will have to address this sometime soon. To answer your two questions - 1) yes I will paint it. 2) I don't know! I guess just through any opening I can get to... I do have an airbush which should make it a bit easier for me. However, coming back to question 1, I'm not 100% sure on colour yet. My first thought was black, but I'll need to do some more research on what possible colours they could have been.

Finishing off the cup, I hollowed out the centre part, just enough to create the illusion of it being hollow/cylindrical. Then coated the piece in epoxy to enable it to be sanded to a smooth finish, eliminating any timber grain marks. (yes, I forgot to hollow out before coating, so had to do a re-coat before sanding) The key measurement I was looking for was the 26mm length, provided by Aaron. Thankyou sir. So I sanded mine down so this much only protruded from the bolt. You can hardly see the lip/hollow/cylinder within the cup. Hard to see in the photo, even hard to see in real life, but I'm glad it's there.

Ok, hadn't seen those particular images. Most of images posted on Blizzard Force, including other numerous screen grabs. I guess another case of variations of the same armor.....

Good job John. Are you going to weather it, or leave imperial issue factory fresh?

Looking good mate. You've got some nice add ons there! Looking forward to what you come up with

Interesting discussion happening about real sterlings. I put my pieces together tonight and I do have enough play in my assembled barrel to position it so the bolt hits IT, and not the handle. My spring isn't super strong, and my handle is reinforced with that 2" nail, but I'll play it safe anyway... I'll probably position it just a couple of mm back unless we get confirmation otherwise.

Good explanation, Aaron. I noiced in your build there is a picture of your bolt in a very similar position. I didn't read the text, but perhps you hadn't put the barrel in yet. Is it just a matter of a mm or two difference? That might be something to consider doing - make sure the bolt hits something insde the receiver instead of the charging handle itting the end of the channel. At the moment mine comes to rest on the changing handle. That could weaken it over time....

I sleep with mine As Andy said, there's no real right or wrong way. I lined mine up with the edge of the mag housing angling towards the receiver. After telling one builder that he had his on backwards, Andy posted a pic of one movie E-11 with them on BACKWARDS! I wouldn't do that, but otherwise - personal preference.

It doesn't look too bad Brian. As you say, finding something that is wide enough so you don't have too many joins is half the problem. You could obscure those joins with 'weathering' and 'paint chips'. I reckon someone needs to make a mold off a real sight guard and make thin latex/rubber "replacement knurling" - like thin dried PVA wood glue that you could just glue onto your smooth sanded sight. Or just a new sight guard I guess....

Most of its there, but the final installation of components after painting, installing the t-tracks after bending, then some final completed shots As I said, this thread wil never be obsolete!

Haha, he got you there, Aaron!

You should finish off this thread some time Aaron. It will be a good reference source for many years to come....

Still haven't worked out photobucket? You could probably just start a fresh build thread in the E-11 section too. Continue this one, or start a new one when you start your armor.

Probably won't matter if you're wearing the long rubber chemical gloves over the top, then your forearm armor will also be over the top of that. As long as the wrinkling isn't around the elbows...

Looking good Ty. It's not written anywhere in the CRL's, but is there a reason why you cut the return edge off the top of the kidney. First I've seen like that I think. Looks like your belt has dropped exposing Velcro at the front. Not sure about Centurion applications but you should look at installing permanent snaps so this can't happen while trooping. Good luck.

Nice. Will you even have it by then? What's the lead time for AP?

Awesome. Thanks Vern I would have just said "I started from the centre of the charging handle" . I think I'm understanding more now. More of a see through cylinder, which is why you were puzzled when I was calling it a recess Very nice. Sounds great! I've got a mate I used to work with who took a posting to Chicago. He and his family were just back home for Christmas. They are really enjoying the different lifestyle.

That's what I'm thinking....

Useless post number whatever - it's interesting to see where people within our community live. I just google mapped Valparaiso. Looks very nice. Very green!

One last question - the height/length of the cup is 33mm. Is that how far it protrudes from the end of the bolt (the visible length) - ie: it doesn't actually insert into the bolt at all (like I did do with my timber one)? Actually 2 - How deep is the hole in the second picture?