I'm Batman

Umm, hello! I was the first one to post a reply in this thread - defending you. As in your original sale thread you said you cast parts from your own Sterling and printed other parts. Excellent! All you have to do is show some of your casts and techniques and we'll all move on and welcome you. However, the point is, if you have lied, then no, you're not welcome. I think the consensus here is show your stuff or move on and stick to eBay. There's a thousand armour makers out there too, but you can count the welcomed ones on one hand - the rest stick to ebay or their own web sites. On a side note, I'd be interested to know how you got a real sterling into Australia (assuming you're still here).

He didn't put the actual hyperlink there. Copy and Paste.

I don't think there's a "tend to mod" as not many people have modded them. I think they are pretty close and either will look fine with a coat of black paint for basic trooping. No one has tried to get one through EIB yet (as far as I'm aware), so not sure what the requirements will be there.

Um, you say in his thread "nice build" "great paint", but then you accuse him publicly of recasting without showing his defence? His original sale thread says they ARE in fact cast from a deact Sterling and 3d printed parts. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32533-stormtrooper-anh-e11-blaster-full-kits-available/#entry421162 So are you saying he is lying? Have you spoken to him? What was his defence? I'm confused.....

Ahh, I'd say you had them in the wrong way. Only the larger of the two springs should be visible. Here's one pic with details of how it should be. Plenty more in Aaron's album there, or the Blaster Reference here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/page-5#entry422899

Looks awesome Michael! Great stuff. It does have a nice clean look to it with no counter or cylinders, doesn't it. I put a 1/16 rail on mine with a real scope and weight/rigidity doesn't seem to be an issue at all. Only constructive criticism I could offer would be to shorten the length of the spring so less coils are visible and are further spaced. Great job again.

Haha! But it won't fit in my blaster. My receiver has thicker walls. I'd have to build a whole new blaster..... Hmmm, I am about to build a Snowy. Could do with a ESB spec blaster I suppose Let me get back to you.

It's October 6th now. Well......

If so, come visit us at http://www.501scg.com/scg/index.php

I think this thread will take you where you need to go Andrew. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/595-member-status-501st-status-detachment-status/

Sure did!

Great start! Does the screw thread in the D-Ring retainer actually function?

As Evan posted in your other thread above: http://forum.mepd.net This is where you should be posting info about your armour build too. Your local garrison approves your armour for 501st approval (no weapon required), but the MEPD take over from there for any advanced costuming awards and info.

Hi Dan, remember weapons aren't required for 501st approval. Only the 2nd and 3rd tiers within the detachments. FISD requires some special mods for a Hasbro to be approved at Level 2. Not allowed at all Level 3. I'd be posting your specific question on the MEPD forum, if that's what your building for.

I hear there's a half decent Blaster Reference around here somewhere... Didn't see the templates and dimensions on there

I can check my "Andy's Resin ones" for you about this time tomorrow, if no one with metal ones chime in before hand. Haven't checked, but do any of Andy's threads mention the exact measurements?

Hey Clement, just remember you don't NEED a blaster for 501st approval. Only for the EIB/Centurion levels. Anything from a modified Hasbo/Rubies blaster to a real Sterling will do. There's a few threads about this particular one you mention (see below). Yes, it's ok, but its an awful lot of money for a lot of inaccuracies. Doopy/Glue/Black paint will give you one just as good for less than half the money. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25773-sds-shepperton-design-studio-e-11-blaster-photo-report/

Nice work, as always Aaron!

Hey Tino. Not sure if Chris knows what you're referring to, but I don't. Another pic of Denis' counter from his thread here: Hasn't Chris replicated THIS counter? I think so.... In our gallery there is 12 of Dennis' counters. 9 of 12 have the two screws. One has none - the plastic one. However this plastic one (photo above) does have the two screws, so again we see even more examples available. Or are you referring to something totally different, Tino? Edit - just read Denis' thread - this one is already painted, so not sure what difference that makes?? What it looked like originally?? Another Edit, took me 20 minutes to type that due to getting called away, so didn't see your reply Chris. Disregard if necessary..

If it's still the same as the pics in this thread, you could do sooooooooooooooooo much better with other makers out there. Looks ok from a distance, but way too many inaccuracies if you're serious about your blasters. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25773-sds-shepperton-design-studio-e-11-blaster-photo-report/

Great work as usual Chris! A quick tip, if you're simple gluing that counter end onto your resin front half, then the resin main counter gets in the way of the button being depressed anyway...

Great looking scope! And good fix on the extractor section. That counter pic was not mine, just one from Blue Snaggletooth's sale threads, so can't help you anymore, sorry. But I believe Tino has given you the answer you need. Mine is only a DVH resin one, so I wouldn't trust that for accuracy. On the home stretch....

He's going to out do us all Tino. (He's grabbing my blaster to get a few crucial measurements too....) No pressure now Matt!

Hey Chris. Going great! I think what Mike is trying to say is, well if we look at the two pics below You can see that where the extractor plunger ends on the original is about vertical to the extractor guard (about the bottom of the curve), whereas your extends quite a bit further back. You have probably made your extractor the proper size, but half of it is sitting within the receiver tube, forward of the opening. That probably does;t make any more sense, does it??

They look pretty good