Zugor

This may sound like crazy talk but you may need to add a fill strip and fill the gaps with ABS slurry. Then sand smooth and put the proper size cover strip over the top for aesthetics. Potentially a lot of sanding. It sounds like you have one of the smaller kits.

It means being a little joy to those who need it most and a smile to those who need a break from the real world.

I have been wanting to do this with my Bronco. Can't wait to se what your ideas are.

how did you strap your kidney and posterior plates?

I cant believe you guys cant tell the difference between these helmets. What do I have to do to prove my molds are originals?

Using the photos kindly provided by Troopermaster: The dome on my helmet appears to be rounder on the sides and top and shorter in the dome, while the other appears to rise straight up quickly slope over and then go flat on the top. The trapezoidal detail above the ear is smaller on my helmet. The detail below the eye has a different shape and position on my helmet versus the other. The ridge surrounding the eyes continues across the bridge of the nose on my helmet while it stops prior to the bridge on the other helmet. The frown on my helmet has a shallower angle versus the steeper one on the other helmet. The vocoder extends out to the point that it looks like a separate piece glued on after like an FX helmet on the other helmet while mine the detail is built into the mold. The side tube on my helmet appear to be almost level or flat as it traverses from back to front while the other helmet appears to slope down as it comes forward ( I could be wrong as I don't have enough pictures to be able to tell for sure). Other than the fact that these are chest plates I don't see how these two could be considered related in anyway. The sniper knee is larger on my shin versus the other and the angles are different where the knee extends back giving my knee a larger space going towards the rear of the knee. My shin is looks to have a square like shape versus the rounder shape of the other shin. I believe the knee pack on my thigh plate has shorter blocks versus the taller ones on the other thigh. I believe this to be a fair comparison with the goal of debunking the theory that I have recast someone's work as charged by TrooperMaster. I would like to reiterate that which I posted in the originial post, all of this is on a very small budget. The forming table was built with scrap wood and conduit. I only have a shopvac, I started with 2 old vacuum cleaner motors, and the wood vacuum chamber probably leaks, so I can understand why the details are soft in my plastic. My goal here has been to make kits for MY kids for Halloween so laugh and mock as my effort all you want. My kids still think I am SuperDad.

I am honored that you think my stuff is a recast of your awesome kit. However, it's not. I will get out the pics we took of the molds while made them and you will see.

Nope, we made everything from scratch, and wow cant believe I am being accused of recasting already. Since the molds are from scratch with no prior experience I can see why the pulls lack some definition. Since this is the first time I made anything like this I think its pretty good, that and the learning curve is steep. Also when I ordered the plastic I ordered 0.09 inch but when I picked it up I think they gave me 0.125 which is partly responsible for the lack of definition. Hey for Halloween costumes I think they are pretty good.I am going to have to make more due to growth and I still have two kids that want kits so improvements can be made as I go along.

I have a TK that I have been taking the kids trick or treating with every Halloween for the last 3 years and they have been asking when they get to be troopers like me. The standard Rubies fabric costume just won't do for these little Star Wars connoisseurs. So I looked into the kids size kits others produce and just about fell over, now compound that number by 4 and I woke up on the floor drooling. Then I thought to myself, "Self, how hard could it be to make my own kits?". Short answer, its a lot of work. First, I had to build a vacuum table, and because I have this inability to do things simply I had to build the overhead oven type vac table. I am cheap too so I wasn't about to pay for the plans I keep seeing advertised out there. I built the frame and then started hunting for heaters. The first victim was a small 120 volt under the desk type warmer I found in the Goodwill for $5. It did heat the plastic just not hot enough and it took 45 minutes to get to temp. Then I tried heat lamps, bad idea. Then I bought some nichrome wire and started experimenting. I tried several versions before settling on a design with 3 parallel loops and generating about 4000 watts of heat. This heats the plastic in about 45 seconds which means you have to becareful not to burn the plastic. I also have a great friend that helped me out by making the molds out of foam and bondo. I have a lot of parts now. Some parts need reshaping to fit the kids, but I am really happy to finally have something to work with. So far I have built these legs for my son and daughter. Only one set in the picture. Then I put together the abdomen. Chest and back plates are riveted together via the shoulder straps. Now I am working on the shoulder bells biceps and forearms. I have been working on one of the helmets and its looking pretty good though I am having trouble finding more of the brow trim. What do you think so far? I know I only have 2 weeks left until Halloween, I am trying to work like a demon at night to get these done in time. Luckily, two of the kids have decided to be Kylo this year so I only need two kits for this year.

I have one ANH TK as well that is still in the box. I have been thinking I should get a few more to display. That TK with the space pack would be really nice to have.

I need a poster like that!

I don't know how your planning to use the spot lights but I tried them in my overhead oven and had problems with uneven heating. They might work better in an oven design with the plastic over the lights.

I am wondering this as well. We made some molds out of foam and bondo. The table I am building is almost complete. It has an overhead oven I made out of nichrome wire.

I have seen plastic wall anchors glued in and then holes in the lenses for screws to secure them. Looks similar to the pic above with the modeling putty.<br> I glued in nuts and used small bolts to secure. Also similar to above.

Try looking for a plastic supply in your area. Call and ask if they have ABS sheets around 0.09 inch thick. It will most likely be textured on one side and smooth on the other. The suppliers around here charge between $50 and $90 a sheet.

I think it's too early to tell. Post up your finished product.

That depends on where you live. We have several here in Colorado Springs and quite a few more in Denver.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I had thought AM would be big enough, but I haven't received a response from him. I will try RT and see if he responds. If that fails I will try Zemzero's suggestion.

I have an FX suit that has become a frankensuit due to damaged parts being replaced. I bought some ATA thighs and have discovered they are too small. I made the front butt strip 1 1/2 inch wide but the back....well here is a pic It is glued on the right side and velcro on the left. I can get it smaller but then it becomes uncomfortable to wear. Any suggestions? I am guessing a vendor with larger thigh armor is in order.

My wife is obsessed with these shows as well. At first I thought it 2as die to our remodeling our own home, but now I think it's something else. She has 3 shows she binge watches. It drives me crazy because she us forever changing her mind about remodel projects I am currently working in our house. <br> As for local market, here in Colorado, the average house us between 200 and 300 thousand and then there is the high end which I don't even want to think about.

Please enable me for 501st access. <br><br> TKID: 72529<br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=19153'>http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=19153</a>

Why not paint the rivets white? Or glue a couple of small pieces of canvas to the rivets?

I ordered one as well. Need to replace my FX.

If your looking for advice on where to get your armor look in the hard armor section http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/29-hard-armor-general-discussion/. The first few pinned thread there talk about sizes of armor by different manufacturers. Once you have found the armorer that makes something for you send them and email and get prices and availablity. Good Luck!

I have heard mixed comments on the ANOVOS pre-order TK. Some have said, no one has seen the armor so and therefore it is unknown whether it can be made approvable or not. I bought an FX kit off EBAY 2 years ago and when I finally get to the point of trying for approval I am told the FX bucket is no go. I have spent money replacing parts like shoulder bells, thighs, and chest plate and now I need a new bucket. If I throw money at the ANOVOS how do I know the bucket is approvable or the armor? I am feeling a bit depressed and not sure what to do. I really want to troop the movie but that dream is not looking good.