Bulldog44

Looks sweet! congrats getting that together. Weathering looks just right , not overdone. Your efforts to make your blaster look like the real deal have certainly paid off. Super trooper job!

I had similar problems with painting the doopy counter and grip too. I tried filling them with epoxy watered down enough to fill each one but they are so darn tiny. It sorta works but it takes time to sand it all back down to a smooth finish. The paint spray particles are too thick to sink into the holes so they never get filled in. Sanding the surface until it gets past the tiny holes is another option but found it only uncovered more holes below. Sorry, Wish I had a better solution. Blaster is is looking great though. Exciting to see it painted but sad your build is coming closer to the end. Amazing work.

Knurling looks spot in. That was one of the hardest things to find that matched the original pattern but looks like you have the perfect item already in hand. End cap lock is a fun mod and when you finally install it and get to work with your end cap, its even better. The metal channel is flat on the bottom so to get a snugger fit on the main barrel tube, you can try the same technique you used to round out the rear sight base with some sandpaper or a metal file that has a rounded contour.

Wire details on the back of the cylinders looks great. I struggled to get that look but you pulled it off. Yes, Tino’s suggestion to reshape the backplate is a must and glad you tackle that. It would be a waste to leave it as it is with all the effort put in so far.

The guards look great. Nice and thin as they should be. How they come is way too thick. Rear sight work looks great too. Metal parts give it that extra twinkle of realism. Keep on truckin!

Thanks so much Tony for your kind comments did checking out my blaster post.

No worries, just wishful thinking on my part. Better to take your time on this project. Whenever it is finished it will be the best out there by far!

Thanks for your comment. Sorry I forgot to add in my post that I got it on the Replica Props Forum. I thought I saw saw him offering these here too but maybe I am wrong. I will edit my post and add that info.

Finally got around to build and complete my F-11D kit from Justinian. Great kit to work with, minimal clean up on the parts, just a few areas to patch up and reshape with epoxy. Sorry, I didn’t document the build. Here is is the raw kit I received from Justin. This photo is from his sales thread. This is exactly what I received. Disney Parks E-11 Blaster internal soundboard and lights. Blaster before completion, sound and barrel light electronics not installed yet, exterior parts not glued in place yet. 99% complete I should say. I have not added the small white stripe details on the rear barrel. The grip material was some floor mat material I found locally that looked nice for the grips on the handle and stock handle. The lenses were glued into place using E6000 but I regret that now as the glue looked message after it dried. I wanted to avoid using cement glue as it causes the clear plastic to turn white along the contact points. But the E6000 stuck so well I can’t remove the lenses without causing damage to the scope rings. Better left as it is I guess. Short video: https://youtu.be/pBgGzv_yV6w

Wow, these latest updates have made my week! Everything looking sharp! Can’t wait to see the first assembled sample of these blasters. Will Santa have these ready for Christmas?

Thanks about the 3.5 jack comment. It was a useful piece to incorporate , making it easy to keep things in place but not fall off. Great at progress on the charging handle and spring. For the ejection port, just carving out the edges for depth will be more than enough. It looks cool when it’s done, just like your t-track idea.

Dan, check out theFISD reference sections #16 and #17. I did this mod by first carving out the perimeter to create depth but then got crazy and removed the whole ejection port, then created an aluminum plate to replicate the bolt . It slides into place. Took a lot of work but it was fun doing it. Gives it a bit more realism but beware it also required me to make the wAlls thin enough to get that effect, makes it more fragile.

Sorry, I just found the reference pic in Henry’s research, it is a copy of the doopy scope.

Sorry if this was discussed before but did the prop makers for the R1 E-11 cast copies of the Doopy scope? The scope looks like the same one,#3 1943 style M38.dont have any high detailed pics to see the serial number. Just curious. If so, it makes it easy for blaster builders to just acquire a doopy scope to reach further screen accuracy. Or at least a copy of a #3 1943 M38 scope. If the scope is a casted copy then would L3 level be better to state the scope should be copy of a real 1943 M38 scope? From the photos I have seen and screenshots, the scope appears to be just a plastic copy on all the blasters. Again, just asking and seeing what you all think or know on this.

Cool. Your efforts to replicate each and every detail is paying off Jesse. Folding stock is looking great.

Glad you decided to hack out the resin folding mech in the stock. Looks better as one whole part even though you don’t really see it , but you know it’s there!

Nice work on the scope. Hands of a surgeon.

No problem, those guys are the hero’s for posting their videos. Glad it helps. Yeah, it was really cool when they posted the videos to show how it works. Fun detail to replicate for sure.

End cap clip release compliments of usaeatt2 and Tino: https://youtu.be/CYVmP_k9rIw https://youtu.be/l72kvNbmnac

Hollowing the scope is a bit scary but worth doing it if you want to get that extra bit of realism in your build. Lightens the blaster a bit more too. Can’t remember who recommended it but the wood spade bits worked well to hollow out my scope if you are going for the straight forward drill out method. But the other way seen more these days where the smaller lens end get hacked off then repositioned once all is hollowed on the inside seems the safer method, plus easier to insert lenses, etc.

I bought a few of those Drexel bits a while back but haven’t used them yet for any projects. Good to hear they work well. I had used a few of the stone head grinding bits but they ended up losing their abrasiveness. The resin would just burn or melt and coat the bits rendering them useless. I will try the new one you posted. Thanks. Great work. Really coming along. It’s a pleasing feeling when you get all the parts mocked up and see the full blaster in is glory.

Awesome!

Thanks!

Super mod with the stock latch Jesse. That’s really pushing your blaster to new heights. Lovin it!

Amazing work on the blaster. Robert's parts really make a huge difference. I recently broke out my old DVH kit and the amount of cleanup and fixing is almost unthinkable. Might have to abandon those parts and start the long expensive process to buy Robert's parts. Love this build. Great work!!!!!