Bulldog44

Lovin the added detail inside the folding stock window. Going that extra mile!

Lets hope DD keeps up on their ordering from now on. If I had the real parts, space and time to do it, I would start making resin kits minus the barrel. but gun laws in Japan are serious so I don't want to push my luck trying to import sterling parts plus they are hard to get now.

As Frank has said you can cover it up/patchwork and re-drill new holes. For me I would contact RS and see the cost of a new kidney plate. Might cost a buck but you will be able to better match the holes without any repair work that may result in an undesirable outcome. I messed up my knee ammo pack and the shoulder bridges, RS sent me new ones for a decent price. I was happy to start with new parts instead of fixing the other ones. But that is just me.

Congratulations Trooper!!!

Tino beat me to it. https://youtu.be/CYVmP_k9rIw

The rumble motor is going to be killer. Love that and wish my blaster had it. So many great photos of your work and lots of ideas for a future blaster build. Thanks Jesse for keeping this build epic. Inspiring work for many other troopers to follow. Insert other media

Also, head to the newly approved section and post up your introduction so more members see you have your new TK digits! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/160-newly-approved-members-sound-off/

Congratulations James!!!!! Welcome to the 501st and many happy troops to you! So happy to have you aboard and look forward to seeing you in your armor soon!!!! おめでとうございます！！

Great job on your armor and it shows. Lots of work put in but worth it.

I was wrong about the scope rail hole. Just had a look at my blaster. I think I was able to insert a screw downward from the cocking handle track spacing. Also I did not have electronics like you have installed there so I also placed a screw at an angle upwards directly behind the spring for my trigger. Sorry not much help actually.

Yes, the rear screw idea looks like a good option. For the rear fastener, I had fully remove my ejector port /bolt window so I had access to insert the screw from the top down, inner tube into the grip at an angle.or maybe i used the scope rail hole for that. Have to check how and exactly where I was able to do that.

Also have a look at the centurion approved armor applicant threads. Approved SDS for either level 2 or 3 will have undergone the correct mods to pass. But I would only refer to recent approved applicants so the mods they have undergone are according to the latest level requirements.

I can be frustrating for sure. My best source was the screen shots from ANH. There are plenty of photos in the gallery section and worth pouring over. Also it’s best to post up photos of any part you are not sure about and ask away before attempting another mod, plenty of veteran members here who know their armor inside out and can guide you to level 2 or 3. Also if you have time, I can try and meet up with you sometime and answer any questions you may have, modding the SDS armor is not my specialty but I can research anything you are concerned about. Happy to help out however I can.

With a big gap as you said, you did the right thing. I wouldn’t replicate a line just yet. See how it looks after you get it sanded and polished,it should be just fine like that.

Did your thigh armor parts have the front trim the full length of the front seam? It is okay if there is a visible seam there as the original armor had. Like you, i wanted the seam almost invisible. I just glued some scrap plastic behind the seam lines to make them less visible and also add strength. Good luck sanding it back and polishing.

https://www.facebook.com/BulldogPropsJapan/photos/a.1982700905346988.1073741830.1965760503707695/2112482142368863/?type=3&theater finished new mold for the 1943 M38 scope. Test casting this weekend.

That’s good news. Somehow the pics looked stretched in my screen so I could really get a good sense for the proportions. It’s all looking good so far. I don’t think it’s a problem but when applying for 2nd or 3rd level clearance, the snaps fixing your holster to the belt might be pointed out since they are white capped. I didn’t read anything in the CRL that says you can’t have them other than silver but not sure exactly on that. In the films they were silver rivets. I used Chicago screws on mine.

Nice work James. TD clips came out nice and drop boxes look in better position. Double check the TD measurements to yours, your tube looks a bit long but that could be photo distortion. The overall length with the end caps should be about 190mm. Sorry if I missed your build thread on the JG forum. For your build on this forum, it may have been archived so you can ask the staff here to check if so. for the photobucket problem I just added an extension to my Chrome browser that allows me to view all the broken linked photos on all the threads. works like a charm. try it out if you need it. Photobucket Embedded Image Fix https://chrome.google.com/webstore/search/photobucket?_category=extensions

I tried one of those Google Chrome extensions to view Photobucket photos and so far it works for me. I can see all of my photos that were un viewable after the Photobucket disaster. If you have not yet, its worth trying it. I might start posting up pics again if this is a permanent fix for all members to use. Here is the extension link: Photobucket Embedded Image Fix https://chrome.google.com/webstore/search/photobucket?_category=extensions

Jesse, superb work on this blaster. great to see you back at it. Selector switch mod is awesome. Lots of fine work to fit it in there but it looks great and you will ba able to actually use it. Rumble motor will be epic too. I always wanted to try adding one. good luck.

Wow. I have been asleep missing all this cool blaster build action. Job well done. That grip is a beauty . Gotta see this blaster finished.

No problem. If you have any more questions Mr Paul is the expert on this pack. I can offer whatever knowledge I have as well if you need any. Hope you go ahead and build one. Its fun and quite different from building a sandy traditional pack.

Sweet heavens that is beautiful. Great detail captured and love all the separate part features. I know it’s not practical for this type of rubber blaster but wish it was possible to have the main body separate into two parts for transportation or shipping overseas.

These are just very rough measurements from the pack I made. Height 70cm and with about 65cm . This is taking the rolled canvas into the measuremtn not just the frame. About 70cm from the bottom to the top of the rolled canvas. Hope this helps. I wouldn’t worry too much about the pack looking big. You can tighten up the canvas more to get a sleeker look but backpacks are always going to look big but impressive! If you like the pack, go for it.

I waited a long time for the OT TK kits they offered for $350.00. Took a long time but they fulfilled the order. It will probably take much longer but I believe they will ship out eventually. I am in no rush to build my kit so not worried but if I planned on having a kit ready for a specific event or time frame, Anovos is not the vendor you are looking for.