The5thHorseman

Epic weathering! It looks awesome. But as Gazmosis says, the handle grip shouldn't be weathered with metallic. Also on the side pic, the rear lock mecanism for the folding stock is glued quite far from the end cap:

Same as Mathias. So i haven't glued them and i have no issue with my drop boxes sliding out of position.

Overall, it looks weird... Like a mix between the L2A3 and the MGC, with also self interpretation of some parts. Everything looks a bit off: the trigger group, "S-?-R" markings instead of "A-R-S" for the fire selector, handle shape, inner bolt, rear sight, folding stock cross junction, muzzle to barrel junction, bayonnet lug area, ... Still better than a Hasbro but not better than the Doopy in my opinion.

The main thing to do with a demilled Sterling is to cut down the magazine for which Aaron has done an excellent HOWTO available here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/42-cutting-a-sterling-magazine-to-e-11-size/ And about the power cylinders the best on the market are PlayfulWolfClub's ones. You can find the sale threads here: - Resin "budget" ones: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24821-screen-accurate-resin-budget-power-cylinders-for-e11s/#entry311996 - or if you prefer more accurate metal ones: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24179-screen-accurate-e11-power-cylinders/

Very nice. Now onto the painting!

I don't care about the drop boxes, the full picture is amazing! I had never seen it before.

It's looking quite good indeed, but there's a little problem with your folding stock. In fact when it's folded like that, it consists in two different parts fitted into each other, thus the underneath holes shouln't be drilled all the way through:

I guess we finally have found the drop boxes thief : But on this ESB trooper, as Steve says, it's most likely the left/hand drop boxe which slided to the right side before the belt was snapped on the ab plate.

I'm glad your armor is almost there. And i'm sure you're already aware of that, but you will need to get those black soles dyed in white

Distance marked in red on the pic is about 13.5mm

Getting closer. Very nice weathering on the chest plate

Hope this help:

I don't see any problem with your shins. About the 3 bumps on the ears, the red arrows on the picture belwo should help you understand: About where to get them, you can send a PM to ATA who makes them, or TM.

Very important, wash thoroughly the inside of your helmet before painting it in case there would be any relaeasing agent left on the ABS, or it will mess up with your paint.

Great job! The armor and the picture is so close from an original, it's really cool:

Very nice!

That E-11 man... mind-blowing! And what an amazing loss of weight. Congrats, you'd deserve an award just for that Fix that gap between your kydney and back plates and you'll be near perfect. I read you're tall but perhaps by lengthening the shoulder bridges and then thightening the elastics between the kydney/back, you could manage to reduce it to a less noticeable gap.

Awesome! Did you source the Newey snaps or are they from Paul? And those boots look incredible too. I don't know if they're Stuart 1095, but they seem to be an excellent match if they aren't .

Thank you Tim. Your time will come too

Isn't the rear sight glued on backwards?

The strap should be located here if you want to be more accurate: Pic of an original right arm:

Everything you need to know about how to get your armor to the next level is here : http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt

Wow, until today, i had never fully understood how this front sight is sitting on the main barrel. I hadn't noticed that notch on the barrel for the sight to fit in... Thanks for linking the pics! Hope you'll find someone to cast it for you.

Sounds good and looks pretty nice. However, there's not much of a notch on the top of the right/hand thigh and you might have overdone it a bit. On contrary, i feel like you could have gone further with the left/hand thigh notch.

Top notch as always Brian! Impressive work so far.