The5thHorseman

Yes it should be that way. Just thave a look at how Luke and Han put and remove their helmet in the film. And the tighter the fit, the harder it is for people to see you from the neck opening.

I have no idea how you managed to carve out the space underneath the trigger area but this is stuning. I just hope it won't compromise too much the resistance of it. The folding stock's branches should kind of protect this area but a direct hit on it might be enough to break it. And this inner bolt man... Shiny!

That's better for sure.

Very important point Derrek mentionned above. Be sure to proceed as he says.

Yes, drop boxes constructed that way shall be Centurion acceptable, and indeed that's my tutorial The boxes don't actually need to open. As i handmade mine, the fit is really tight and the airlock is enough to secure the halves together, but some glue them, some use velcro, or magnets. Edit: all the pics on my tuto are now hosted on flickr rather than imageshack. Still don't know why i used this terrible host in the first place...

As Steve says, this requirement means the inner boxes must have walls:

Beautiful, really beautiful... That's definitely on my wish-list.

Looks like you figured out how to link pics on a post You two are looking splendid. There's nothing better than to troop in family!

Ha ha, yes i figured it out myself Still, it's clear that both are awesome DLTs.

Really cool! Nice work, it should match very well with your armor

Ooh, nice replica! Will you fasten it to the belt like seen on screen?

Funny how at the beginning we all love the low brow . But the more i look at stormtrooper helmets the more i prefer ones with high brows. Good luck with the ears

Thanks for the comparison pics. Pity you didn't tag the DLTs on the pics though . I agree some features are more accurate on the ASH but on your pics i find the Doopy sharper. It's maybe different in real however.

Excellent! Really good job with the return edges. Adding one at the bottom of the kydney and top of the butt plate, and on the kydney notches really makes a difference.

The rivet is a split rivet with an 8mm head, left unpainted.

Good to hear that you can't further be approved with a FX or MRCE helmet. I know our GML in the French Garrison was already rejecting approvals with these helmets, but now it's official!

Teeth trimming is spot on! Excellent work

It's just an accurate feature that original armors had. Not to be trimmed!

Right arm.

Superb! You're handpainting is really awesome. The best i've seen One thing i noticed on Han's helmet though, there's a gap between the lens and the faceplate on the left eye opening: --------------

Cool, thanks Mathias. I had already saved them on my computer but it's good to know the pics are available here. The pictures already provided by TM are excellent but they're unpainted boots and the way the boot flakes off is interesting. It looks like there's two different coats of white applied, almost like if it was a white boot painted white... You can especially notice it at the toe section.

The pictures would be a nice addition to the reference gallery if the propstore would accept to share them.

Have you tried scoring repeatedly along the seam between the rear lock and barrel with a sharp blade like a x-acto? Anyway, there's nothing major here, right now the finished look is already excellent

Amazing looking suit! I hope you'll agree that the look of your back looks just completely different and much more better than it was before, now that you have close this big back-to-kydney gap you had.

As Andrew says, go with a 20mm front cover strip by taking off all the extra ABS but 10mm on each side.