Dday

The sight cage ended up molding wrong but since it's a part of a 7 piece block mold, I had to go with it for the time being. I'll eventually make a new mold that will mean a lot less clean up on the front sight cage. Nearly any sanding/roughness disappears after the first layer of paint lands, just like you said.

Yeah man, awesome to see another build from my new V2 kits and really looking forward to seeing what you do with it! Ask any questions you may have. One thing I failed ot mention is the 2 long silver rounded head screws. You cut this off at the top of the thread and insert them into the stock/stock pivot and glue them down to give the look of the pivot pins.

Markus, One thing I forgot to mention in the write-up I did. The 2 long domed silver bolts in the hardware. You will cut them at the top of the threads, or a little deeper if you like and they will be inserted into the stock pivot and glued in after the stock is mounted to the pivot. This will give the nice domed look of the originals vs the slotted way I was doing it in the past. Looking forward to watching this come together!

For your low end kit, you can get a doopy. But this is a kit. If you want a finished one you can look for someone on your local garrison who likes to do builds for a fee. Other than the options you listed, your best best is looking for one to pop up in the junkyard forum. If you want a really accurate E11, you're going to pay for this quality and level of detail. The Hyperfirm B-grades pop up regularly in the junk yard, and of the bunch are the best price as long as you're not looking for ultra display accuracy but more of a blaster that pretty good, and bouncy.

This suit should not cost you more then 200USD. IF you watch different auctions you can get them at this price. The suit itself is not great. If he is interested in a suit and doesn't care about being even a little bit accurate or looking good, go for it. The better suggestion is to buy a suit that has the details you are looking for and looks great to start. You can get everything you need from top to bottom for around $1000 and look like a real stormtrooper.

Trim the edge down, make a half moon cutout on the inside of the forearm. Photos will get you more help so we can see what you're working with.

It is really down to the ABS you're using if it's the 1.5 or 1mm ABs you'll be fine for a long long time as this ABs is very flexible and takes a lot to crack it. If it's any thicker like the 2mm+ of the majority of makers, don't use the brackets, the armor will crack eventually. With teh 1.5mm ABs suits like the Trooper master, if it does crack,m it will crack just like the originals and be accurate

Not spam at all! This is a substantial update. Keep em coming! Looks great.

All the Hovis are some sort of screw in. Most have a bolt stud on the end of them and you take a washer and a nut to tighten them down. The screw is the same option, but easier for them to make because they don't have to place a bolt stem in the resin. The only problem I see with looking at this is that that is a small screw head, and the plastic there is notoriously thin. It's better to have a large washer there to help distribute the pressure evenly and not to potentially break the plastic there.

Odd, they touted how cool it was they were able to demand a special recipe of PVC and they had ordered tons (literally) of it. Now they switch? What about all the pvc they bought?

It should be a flat black with the grip part being gloss/satin black. I've seen satin and gloss blasters and it just looks wrong. They just are too shiny.

Is that one handpainted or decals?

I really wouldn't worry about trying to match with Doopy kits. They are in a whole different world. It is a great price for the level of detail you get, but as your kit is fully custom built with a lot more parts in much higher detail, you don't have to worry about competing with them.

I've found that it's more down to the thickness of the material. The PVC and the PBS I've used will both work with score/snap and cutting. What you should keep in mind is that as the armor gets thicker/thinner the methods change. For instance with 1mm ABS you can't really score and snap it. The material is too flexible and doesn't have that snap to it. But because it's so flexible cutting it is ultra easy. 2mm ABS is much harder to cut with scissors (comparatively), and really snaps well because it's less flexible. If you'er trying to cut the 2.3+mm ABS/PVC like seen in a lot of the US made kits, it's really really hard to cut them with scissors/lexan scissors.

I was pretty sure this is just a look thing and has no functionality. Behind the mesh is a solid backing so there is no airflow. The airflow comes through vents in under the nose area and out the side of the white nose cap.

I've been folowing this on the RPF as well and really glad you made your way here. You'll get a lot more attention here since this is where the majority of the FO troopers will end up. The fact you're going to offer these with electronics makes you light years ahead of any other blaster maker around. Electronics are a lot of work, and people love flashy things! Sending a PM about some things.

This is 100% the best job on the blaster I've seen to date. Looking forward to seeing your product. Maybe we can arrange a trade

Hi, anyone heading to SDCC please let me know as I have a couple pieces of stuff I'm interested in getting a hold of there. Thanks, Derrek

HAve you looked for some model paint in a small jar? Like the model masters and so on? Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Testors-Model-Master-Brass-1-2-oz-Paint-1782-/190817130835?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6d965953

The top one, but it's still more gold. where the bottom one looks goldish silver. I would go with the top one if I had to pick between the 2.

Unmodified there is absolutely no way the mannequins will hold a real sterling. It should be easy enough to get some external support though. Like a steel bar, bend it into shape and cut it down. Then affix it to the mannequins elbow with black tape. Now the arm will be much more reinforced to hold a real item in place. I know everyone knows this but I'm just making sure The wire to the ceiling is an interesting option as well. IT would be more about the anchor in the ceiling at this point. If you have wooden roof it's easy but us here in Germany generally have concrete and it's a whole other set of problems.

Hi Andrew, I can do this! If the kits aren't including the machined tube I can still sell these even when my alu tubes are all sold so you don't have to wait.

Sly, you are right about your resistors. You can have a higher wattage as long as the OHM's are right. They just cost a little more usually to buy the higher wattage ones.

PM me

Ouch, orange peeling is just poor quality control and I wouldn't be happy either. You might consider contacting them and lodging a complaint.