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Everything posted by Dday

  1. looks good to me! So you needed 6 M4 rounded hex head bolts, Was there something else I didn't see?
  2. Did you put the cut on the underside of the chin? I thought about this as well, to basically roll the silicone off of the casting. The undercuts are just too much for this, so maybe a cut on the front and back just to uncover the return edges?
  3. I changed my stock to 1 piece for the ease of building for people in my current kits.
  4. Been there, done that My first paint on mold I had to destroy after 4 layers because I realized that I had failed to add on the frown mesh to the master before molding. Second mold I had to destroy because the glue I used to hold down the mesh was E6000. Even fully cured, E6000 and silicone don't play well together so it was a mess. The third one worked... but now I'm thinking about a 4th one and how to improve the casting/pouring now that I will be starting to rotocast them. I've got much respect for your work and keeping at it, going back to improve things as needed.
  5. That is some fine and nerve wracking work. Such small edges with thin pieces means it only takes one slip and you're destroyed the part. Glad to see you didn't have that problem! Pretty crazy progress. Absolutely amazing.
  6. I was having trouble with the nose as well, with my previous mold, but after doing it this way I"m pretty happy with it. IT used a ton of silicone, but I"m not so hot on fiberglassing due to the fumes, so a big block of silicone suited my purposes, and keeps the cast part very consistent. The way you molded your helmet. this looks like you did a cavity mold? Cover the master in clay to make the fiberglass mothermold. Then once that cures take it off and then fill the empty space with the silicone? I thought about this, and it's much faster but I'd be worried about all of the overhangs trapping bubbles. Under the brow, and under the neck. How did you combat this?
  7. The end cap on my kit has always been a big bleh part for me. I've thought about molding the end cap as a single piece and I proved it's possible with the F11 end cap I just did. The problem is the Dring as you said. When I get the metal parts kit form you and cut off the dring I also noticed the construction and thought this would be the solution but replicating this isn't cost effective. So then I considered doing exactly what you did be forming a recess and reshaping the holder to fit in it. Well done!
  8. I've got flexible mannequins here in Germany for shipping all over Europe. Shipped quite a few of them out already. You can find the link to the thread in my signature block.
  9. Hi Tyler, I just checked out your vid and will see about your build. I've been looking to build up a rotocaster myself and I have some detailed plans but being here in Germany I need to find the parts over here. I'm going to look up all your parts and see if this is something I can work into my own setup Awesome, thanks for sharing! I like the addition of the supports inside the second frame. Makes centering and balancing your mold a pretty easy task.
  10. So I'm working to setup a webshop. I've got the ecommerce setup from sitebuilder.com but I've just not got the time to set it up right. So I'm looking for someone who can help me to build this. It won't be a complicated site. A few main pages, a store page and a shopping cart. Nothing fancy. A nice look, easy navigation and so on. Anyone interested in picking up some cash or maybe a Helmet/Blaster in trade for setting up a turnkey website for me?
  11. There isn't much you can do for height. The parts are made to be adjustable for width but never height. Unless you're going shorter. At 6'4", you'll be tall but it should still look good.
  12. Nice job! Glad to see you are addressing some of the small details! This is the mark is a good craftsman and maker. Always improving and making a better product!
  13. I uploaded 5 photos a few days ago, then when I logged in to link them it had uploaded about 69 copies instead. Now yesterday it was just down. Seems up now though, I'm just missing a lot of photos.
  14. Looking good. This is a bad build thread though , there are precious few who can hope to actually follow in your footsteps with the awesome mods you're doing. This things is going to be crazy cool.
  15. Good catch! I remember when I was working on the design, the CNC machines were only able to do a radium equal to the thickness of the tube, which is 1.5mm. The original tubes must have been fully rolled as shown, and this will account for the difference in length. If only I could roll the edge in Maybe this is something I can look at with the next run of tubes. I've also been thinking about the front nozzle casting. Due to this roll, the measurements I took for the dovetail and the guide hole for the sight cage ended up off and not sitting in the right relation to each other, so in the current tubes I had them move the guide hole back 1.5mm to get better placement of the sight cage. I've noticed however that it looks like the entire dovetail on the tube moved back as well. What this causes is the nozzle to sit in the wrong place. I had to cast a new nozzle block to account for this, but what it does mean is that the tubes you ordered will not work right with a real front nozzle, they are 1.5mm off. Thats a side job, and not to derail this thread, but we can talk about exchanging them when I do my next run in order to be able to use all real parts in your build. Sorry man, I was a but gutted when I discovered this. For the casting of the nozzle as it is, yes, it needs to be reshaped. I wanted to do the nozzle in a single part mold and in order to do this, I had to fill in the back end. Once I fix the front end of the tube in the next run I will make it a 2 part mold and make a 1:1 copy of the nozzle. At the same time as I fix this, I wil see what can be done to get the nose rolled so the nozzle can slide in from the back and sit in place on it's own like the original.
  16. Mike is right, ABS OT trooper helmets are so readily available and made really great like this. There is no need to get a resin version of the OT trooper helmets. Resin is great, but why, when you can be just like the film helmets and get is in ABS.
  17. It's not painted, just colored over time I think. They are a darker steel color, so the silver spring really doesn't match unless you do as tino said and spray it black and then weather it up. Or let it sit out in the weather a week or 2 and it should darken.... maybe.
  18. Hah, someone carrying this blaster will have to look out for the police! will be hard to tell it from the real thing, outstanding!
  19. Ken, Send me a PM and I will send you my standard blurb with all the details you need. Sam, Looking forward to seeing you rocking one of my helmets one day! Speaking to the Anovos helmets, from the words I have heard from others is that the first sets of fiberglass helmets were a nightmare, but their new injection molded helmets are pretty nice. The biggest difference between their helmet and mine is the details. There are minor differences in their sculpt vs mine and for the nitpickers among us, it's a big deal. There is also a subtle overall difference in the look. I wouldn't worry about the quality on the new Anovos helmets, it's down to how you like your details!
  20. Yours is upside down. There is a bigger flair on the top, that should be on the bottom to fit the start of the curve of your booty.
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