Dday

Great boots otherwise though!

So I"m a size 15 and after talking to them (fast replies!) and passing some actual measurements, I decided to get a pair of 14s they had in stock. They came very fast. I was naturally a little concerned with the size 15 being a size 15. Put them on then they fit. So be aware, at least for me, they are running big. So if you're a 14, get a 13 or 13.5 as a 14 will be big. But big is better then to small.

Well, then I would imagine you can EIB with just a slew of photos, why not, might as well

How about we get a running count of the EI approval numbers, so we can track the path to 300?

Turrican, Danke für die Informationen! Do you know where I could look here in germany to find a old deac?

I wonder what the requirements are for these within germany, since this is where it would ultimately live, anyone know?

I've been hoping to get a legal deac, but can't seem to find them anywhere. What kind of price do these deacs go for?

Has anyone found a supplier of snaps in volume? The craft stores have snaps in quantity of 7 for about $5-6, but I'd like to buy like 100, but haven't had any luck finding them in such a volume.

Thanks for the replies! I bought heavy duty 1 1/2 already, so it should be ok, even if it is a little smaller. Now I just need to get the 5/32 for the shoulder.

So I'm gathering materials for my suit and one question I wasn't to turn up easily in the search was about the shoulder connections. I understand, elastic from chest to back, small elastic around the plastic shoulder straps that are free floating in the back and glued to chest in the front. So the interior elastic should be how wide about? 1.5in, 1.25in? I imagine it just needs to be slightly smaller then the plastic armor straps, but since I don't have armor yet, I don't really know a good measurement. Also, the small elastic around the plastic straps, .5in, .25in? Help is appreciated.

Possibly, the boost in registrations is in part due to the amount of people selling recast and super cheap suits on ebay. For me, I started searching ebay on a whim for armor since I've always thought about it. I saw a seller selling them cheap, and figured, why not. Once I started bidding and watching prices, I saw a ton of sellers touting the 501st approved. So I thought, hey, I should look into if the sellers are full of crap or they are telling the truth. This led me to the FISD and ultimately to register. So there are a lot of poor quality recast suits out there being sold now, this may be driving up registrations as people start to do their research into what it takes to get their newly purchased recast suits 501st approved, that's what drew me here, I know I'm not alone.

I think it needs to be a separate thread. When I asked if you could skip EIB and go straight to centurion, I was told no, so once you get EIB I guess you will just do a new thread requesting Centurion. buuut, I"m not an admin here, so what I say holds no weight.

Oh, also forgot to mention, anyone outside the USA, don't get any hopes of ever buying this, importing an automatic weapon is most likely a felony. Great collectible gun, since they are 0 more of these coming into the world, it's fairly limited that it isn't cut up.

Friend showed me this site. Only 8500. http://www.autoweapons.com/photosn/photosmar04/62xsterling.html

I would say hard cover as well, or at least semi rigid. Putting a soft cover would cause a problem if it came into contact with the board and could transfer moisture as well.

I wouldn't suggest putting the board in a plastic bag, the board will need to breath in order to stay cool and dry. You could leave the board exposed and put some sort of cover over it to hide it and keep it protected from pokes and stray fingers.

Glad my balls are back, I might need them.

Great range there, that will open my options a little. Thanks Locitus!

I'm still gathering all the small materials in anticipation of my armor delivery in October and my next question is Cap Rivets. I'm thinking I will use cap rivets for the leg ammo belt and maybe in a few other places as well (to be seen). My question is regarding the Cap rivet length. I know the head needs to be approx 8mm, and the length is oging to be based on the thing you're putting it through but what would be a good average length? My armor is a RT-Mod (.090 ABS) so I will have to go through two pieces, would an 8mm shaft be enough? I know the split rivets say you should get 11mm, but as it's a split, I'm sure the length is different then a cap. Tips on length form anyone please? Thanks! dday

I do notice a noted improvement in posting speed. Still missing the view newest post link as said before. Thanks for keeping the site running!

My goal is EiB at the get go (well after 501st and numbers are given) then centurion, so at this point, it's just a matter of waiting on the suit to be made. 6'6" 220 means I really only had one choice of suit makers so I wasn't shimmed out of existence. Hoping to have suit in hand in the start of October (Depending on RT-Mod Rob's armor making time) and submitted within a week or 2. In the mean time I will put the finishing touches into the suit and the moment I have my 501st number, I'll submit for EiB. Can you skip EiB and go straight to Centurion?

I'd have to agree with the top one.

Seems most people do that, or a velcro there. Make sure if you go velcro you put the fuzzy side on the armor and the hook side on the belt, otherwise you will catch your undersuit on it all the time.

Plus, the build itself (like was said before) will be a great experience for you for when/if you decide to buy from some of the armormakers who are using their own molds from fan sculpted or casts made from original armors. Build it, and if you want to turn a quick buck resell it as an assembled kit of unknown origin.

I'm sure you can build it to be 501st, there are a few things required, most notably to my untrained eye is the ab buttons. Not to mention the other assessories like the gun, undersuit, boots, gloves and so on.