Dday

Looking good!

Reserved

Hi all, I call this build a DVH 2.5 because the cast parts themselves are the V2 from DVH however I've done a bit of build streamlining with a custom pipe, rail and tracks from Marv. I offer these kits for sale in limited runs, see my signature for the sale thread and put up interest in the current or an upcoming run. Without further ado.... So, I started out thinking I would offer the kits with a PVC pipe, but since the PVC pipes I have easily available are pretty thin walled, when I cut the holes for the ejection port and the cocking lever slide, the PVC decided to collapse a little... Plus who wants PVC when there is a nice aluminum pipe available? You can't see the warping in this photo very well, I didn't take a good picture of it but it is there. After giving up on the PVC pipe, and going with the aluminum, I've made up some new group photos with the tracks, d-ring alu pipe and all the parts as shown here. The PVC experience was very good, I learned a bit about the positioning, how I wanted to attach things and what I could do better on the next round. I ordered some 38OD 1.5mm wall aluminum pipe, which is pretty close the same ID as the original pipes and is very easily available for me. I'm considering using a 40mm pipe later, since the DVH parts are formed around a 40mm pipe. I will decide after the first wave of these kits are out. So phase 1 was to use the template at http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/page-5 the templates are at the bottom of the page, post #99. There are templates created by our FISD members DaveJ, V7sj, sskunky and Zeroroom and the help of other members in the thread. Big props to them for these, they are amazing. Now, I had bought a little drill press that you lock your drill into and go and a 10.7mm spiral bit for the barrel holes, it worked great for the PVC pipe, but I rapidly found out this setup was NOT going to cut it for the Aluminum pipe. The bit was too long, so there was not a nice, straight cut and the spiral bits can jam up and splinter or catch the pipe and holes can be misaligned and so on. Also, the press wasn't really smooth enough and robust enough to get the kind of precision I was looking for in the drilling. So I packed it back up and am going to take it back to the store. Luckily I was smart enough to try a few practice holes on a scrap piece of aluminum and not the pipes I want to use for the kits! To solve both of the previous problems I ordered a larger drill press with the drill built in, adjustable drilling platform and so on. Not a really expensive one, but one good enough to do this job. I also ordered a step bit that will handle the holes and due to it's shape and length will help when being more precise with the holes. Now... while I wait for that to arrive, I started doing the other stuff I needed to do on the pipe that don't need a nice drill press. So step one, attach the templates nice and tight and straight. Then I took my pipe cutter and got the exact right length of pipe. I started out by using a punch (or a big nail) to mark the holes in the pipe for later. Thats a lot of holes... and I did 6 pipes worth of holes. Once the holes all over the pipe were punched, I took a box cutter and cut out the ejection port, marked where the magazine feeder was, cut out the cocking hammer path and marked where the stock lug attaches on the front. Once the template was taken off, the punched holes are now visible as well as a nice tracing of where the cut out parts should be. I drilled a few holes in the ejection port to lessen the amount of metal I had to cut off, then took out the dremel to cut out the rest of the metal... I burned through 2 cutting disks on this, so I might look for another way, but for now... it is what I have to use. After some more grinding and clean up, I've basically arrived at a point where I'm happy with the cutouts. Next comes attaching the main parts to the pipe. I really want to build it so that these main parts are removable so that in the future of someone wants to add real sterling parts, or electronics (the bolt has a hole for electronics and wiring) it will be a snap. So the first step is to screw on the magazine feeder (My kits include all the holes predrilled in the pipe and the screws needed to attach everything) to the pipe. It is pretty easy, just take the small short brass screws and screw them into the magazine. The holes in the pipe and magazine receiver are already there in my kits. The screws shown here were the first version, included in the kits are smaller brass ones that sit flush with the pipe so the bolt doesn't get snagged. Once this is done, you will put the bolt in, and slide the bolt lever in the large hole at the back into the bolt. Once this is done slide the bolt all the way forward. The cocking lever is not glued in but rather just sits in the bolt hole. It may wiggle a little but it won't fall out or anything since it is held in by the pipe and the bolt. It might actually save you a broken cocking handle since if it gets snagged there is a little give in it. Then you put the handle on the bottom and take the two longer brass screws and screw them through the bottom. These go through the handle using the default sterling holes and through the pipe and into the bolt itself. This will hold the handle on tight and keep the bolt in a static location. Again, this can all be disassembled for any reason any time you want since it's all modular and screwed in rather then glued on. After getting the new table drill press, I'm very pleased! I drilled up the first pipe filly today and will be keeping on with the build and shipping the paid for kits this week. There will be parts the need to be glued onto the pipe as screwing them on will not be a good way to go, but as I progress, you will see which they are...

I personally would assemble it in a way that nothing is permanent, like holes, for that exact reason. There is nothing saying it will end up in the CRL, it all depends on if someone picks up the reigns to get it done who has the armor, now thats it's been made.

Bumping this because it's got some great templates on page 5

I agree, don't worry about the messing up the armor thing. Just measure twice, cut ones, take your time and research ahead of time and you'll do great with it.

Thanks! There are a few makers on the RPF and elsewhere you'll find after a lot of digging. Currently there is one guy in the process of a MK42 limited run but all slots are sold out, maybe he has an opening... not sure. The suit will be built to fit normal height people. There is also the guy I bought my suit from, who does a MK3 and MK4/6. The 4.6 is made for tall people like 6'5" (190cm+) and his MK3 is made for normal height people up to 6ft. I am 6'6

Prescription goggles would be the best guess I think

Well, I don't want to pick apart the TK parts of her build, but there is a list.

Well, the CRL needs to be written still!

Just to put in here, I ordered one as well

This is so well done, it's very good!

Awesome! Looking forward to tossing some funds your way Have you considered making two version of the shins, similar to the way TM does? One set of shins made for the below and average height people and one longer set for the taller people. The pulls show how long you've been doing this as they look fantastic!

Yeah, I got the IV and VI mixed up when typing it... However, you're still not right about the version. The MKIII is damaged beyond repair after the fight with the Iron Monger in IM1, and he makes the MKIV. It is the MKIV suit that you see in the start of IM2 when he flys into the party, and again when he fights Rhodes in the MKII suit in the house. After that is the MKV suitcase, then he goes to the triangle MKVI once he perfects the new metal for the reactor. The MKIII has a completely different look, when you get into the deep details, like it is in any version of a custume.

Suit is a MKIV, not MKVI as I listed in the subject, but I can't change the subject... soooo.... I bought a new suit from a RPF member Masked Rider. After quite a few hours modifying and fitting, I took it out for it's first troop yesterday... It was a massive hit.

The shirts are still the same old black stitching, but the pants went to version two with the alternate color stitching... So maybe look at some of the other guys who make this type of compression/sports underwear. It's very common these days and places like WalMart and KMart, and sporting goods stores are going to have something. You can go with the expensive underarmor, but jeeze, it's expensive.

It could work, but keep these things in mind... If you have to pee... You will have a hard time getting out of the suit. The gloves won't let you get to centurion unless you put the rubber gloves over it. (if you care) With a 1pc, fit is ultra important. It is so stretchy, so it should be ok though.

Yes, go watch the movie

I'm pretty sure you should be hearing back form Troopermaster this week. I think he has been gone or doing something the last week and his communication has been off and on. sit tight another week before you pull the trigger. You won't regret it.

Alan, since you are in the UK, my suggestions to to contact troopermaster on these forums, send him a private message, he is the creator of the TM or troopermaster armors is based in the UK and is really the best armor available.

Yes, tuck it under, just like "The Crying Game" and you're good.

Ok, suits done... ready to be boxed up and set away.

Vern, you are not one to talk about being nice and considerate to others. There is a reason people are willing to jump on you.

I remember hearing something about the suits not being setup for survival in deep space, only environmentally sealed with the backpack being an air-processing unit (guess) but no oxygen supply.

John is the Rom/Fx man, so def listen to him! I had a similar problem, even with a brand new 9V. It was a normal one so it just wasn't enough juice. Once I bought the ones made for high drain devices it worked like a charm.