gmrhodes13

Really it's not, so many builds here will all of us having to glue/join/fill/paint our yoke/backs, no difference with this new area. The stickler is that it needs painting, perhaps enforcing the underneath sections and using ABS paste will work out better, touch up just that line with paint and it may not get noticed, otherwise you have to paint the whole yoke/back, then will it match the rest of the armor? Or you could just wear an ammo vest, straps would cover those areas I really hate chips and cracks on my FOTK, I don't get that many though and I have every piece kept in a material pouches so they don't get damaged in transport, but it is time consuming to get everything out and pack away after the troop. I was hoping that the new kits wouldn't need any paint at all and would save this work, but at this stage it just appears it's the yoke/back that needs paint so really it's won't be that hard to protect

Looking forward to the updates, you can do it trooper, see you at EI

Nice, always double check the distance between your holster straps too, if different the straps will look angled

Nice work trooper, you may be missing a few images, just check this PDF Guide Good Luck wit approval

Nice work, still amazed by what can be done with foam.

All you have to do is look in the build sections for WTF in the headings and you'll be able to see the kits in person, to my knowledge everyone who has purchased a kit from Walt has been happy with them.

Could you post a photo of your side and back to get an idea of how much room you have. I'm a little taller so have a little more room in between armor sections so I don't waddle

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the EI ranks

Congratulations trooper and welcome to to the EI ranks

Can't go wrong with a TK most recognisable bad guy after Vader, and the second most asked for costume in our event requests. You'll learn a lot from a TK build which will help when you go on to your next build. Good luck with your decision, hope to see a build thread from you soon.

You can also use two small blocks of wood to shape and hold an edge while it is hardening to help keep it straight. ABS isn't the most friendly to heat and does take some practice, years ago I would never have dared to use a heat gun, now I have people standing around me at armor workshops in awe and disbelief of how I nonchalantly attack their armor with heat, hey I just turn around and say "it's not mine"

There are pro's and con's for both, I'd say you would be able to move around easier with a ST than a DT. ST"s are not from a movie and DT's so would you like a more public recognisable costume?. Pricing may have an impact on your decision also, it's really a personal decision, which one interests you the most, which one do you think the public will recognise the most. Oh BTW there was an image form the new Mandalorian series set showing a DT so I'm sure they'll be getting some more screen time

Looking forward to seeing how this come out, nice work.

You may want to enforce the side/edge of those areas too, they tend to take the strain and crack first with continued used of opening up to get your arms in. Coming along nicely

Build is coming along nicely

You'll find the Spec Ops looks after both the Shadow and Death Troopers so jump on their forum, I'm sure they'll have some info for you

I've seen one of Jim's kits in person and seems pretty sturdy. You can purchase fibreglass filler, you can also get fibreglass matting and resin, this is more for strengthening areas from behind as it can get quite messy. Mask sure you are wearing gloves and a mask as the tiny fibres can go everywhere, I normally keep a set of clothing just for working with fibreglass and don't mix them with others. Lots of youtube videos on working with fibreglass and filling so I'm sure you'll be fine. One thing in case you haven't considered it is to give all the pieces a good wash with soapy water, this will remove any release agent that some use in the molds. Looking forward to the progress, good luck.

The most recent thread with information in regards to detachment affiliation is here

Problem with the Alpha kits (or in my case a Beta/Charlie) is once you have joined the yoke to the back it is rock solid, the yoke section over the arms will only move so much to let you get arms in, I swap from arm to arm at times to equal out the stress, you can get one in but you really have to open the yoke to allow the other to slide in. I do have cracks on the sides even with support sections behind, it's a real pain to keep touching up. I've got an image around somewhere of someone who was thought to be trying on one of their updated kits a long time ago and it does have this separation, almost looks like a hinge. Here is, not as concealed as the photo below this one. And here, but this one is showing a long front yoke? Weirdly I stumbled across this image with Phasma with hinge, notice the full length front yoke, you can see the inner lip like this under the chest piece on FOTK's yet all screen images I have been able to check don't have a hinge/join. But Phasma wears a cape so it gets covered Almost closed no cover chest plate on yet, can just make out the hinge section. Longer inner yoke can be seen behind the chest plate, but as I say I've not seen a hinge on the tops before.

Also adding an outstanding CRL update for FOTK Shoulder Pauldron A black, white, or red ornament made of rigid plastic or plastic-like material, worn over the right shoulder. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Must not be worn with ammo vest, riot baton or riot shield. REMOVE ammo vest Info in this thread https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31034-the-force-awakens-stormtrooper-crl/?page=19&tab=comments#comment-593118 L3

Anovos claimed no painting would be required but would go no further in answering how that was achieved with regards to the yoke and back as the Anovos alpha kits needed joining, filling and painting. "The kits come white and should not need painting to make them white. They will still need cutting and gluing as per the instructions" No matter how many times I asked and worded it differently they would not say how they managed to do away with the joining. So it's not an actual lie it's just not saying that these pieces will be separate and have a join/seam/overlap. Will they meet the CRL for basic approval?, well the crl reference image doesn't show a join/seam/overlap so hmmmmmmm Join/seam/overlap not showing up on the Anovos sales page (although subject to change)

China sort facility

Actually they have a separation/join between the back/front section at the top so that may indeed determine approval and qualification

I've not heard of them, but ouch, a little pricey. There are quite a few areas which seem a little off on the blaster, if you are into custom sounds the electronics isn't bad, I'd suggest researching a little more https://saberforge.com/products/blaster

Doopy's have over time been a little hit and miss with their shipping but hopefully this in now sorted and you receive the kit soon. A great base blaster and a lot can be added to trick them out, looking forward to you building it.