gmrhodes13

Incinerator trooper plasma canon flamethrower, restored by gmrhodes13 Custom flamethrower, restored by gmrhodes13 flamethrower V2, restored by gmrhodes13 flamethrower, restored by gmrhodes13 My plasma rifle build, restored by gmrhodes13 Plasma rifle rough draft, restored by gmrhodes13 Flamethrower question, restored by gmrhodes13 flamethrower speed build, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14958-incinerator-trooper-plasma-canon-flamethrower/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/12214-custom-flamethrower/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/12504-flamethrower-v2/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/10547-flamthrower/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32403-my-plasma-rifle-build-0/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/10867-plasma-rifle-rough-draft/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/15582-flamethrower-question/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/15205-flamethrower-speed-build/

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks, good luck with your EIB application

$14,000 for a 501st approved costume, if only we could all sell ours for this, I'd be pumping out a set of armor every week At first I was like ok but it's not Mandalorian specific era armor BUT the Propstore has mentioned several times it's a costume created by the 501st and appeared throughout the series so the buyer should know what they are getting. At the end of the day it's a nice payday for the member and it did appear on screen and I'm sure the purchaser is happy. The helmet, those ear screws, "he cringes"

Looking forward to seeing the finished photos

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the Centurion ranks

Just watch the elbow sections of the forearms as they are also different between TFA and TLJ Nice work

Certainly does

Looking good. I also noticed blue in the rectangle from a few threads but I think that was before other references became available. Grey or black seems to be the way to go, still haven't seen a definitive image so I'd stick with grey for the time being.

my new t21 new body barrel detail, restored by gmrhodes13 my new batch of T21's, restored by gmrhodes13 Yoshixs T21 spool68, restored by gmrhodes13 Incinerator plasma cannon screen grabs, restored by gmrhodes13 V3 flamethrower, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20537-my-new-t-21s-new-body-barrel-detail-and-3-stain-choices/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19547-my-new-batch-of-t-21s/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38623-yoshixs-t-21-w-spool68s-kit/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18342-incinerator-plasma-cannon-sceen-grabs-4-images-tfu/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/13678-v3-flamethrower/

Lewis manuals, restored by gmrhodes13 MG15 RT07C reference, restored by gmrhodes13 MG15 tutorial, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27023-lewis-user-manuals/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21474-mg-15-rt-97c-reference/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/10709-mg-15-tutorial/

Coming along great

That's a shame, I have had great luck with permanent markers, maybe a different type may work.

Hello and welcome aboard, you can never have enough friends supporting you

Great progress, I agree sanding is the worst with 3D printing, so time consuming, it's never ending. With the paint issues I try to make sure I use all the same brand paint, sometimes different brands just don't like each other. Also make sure you are not painting an acrylic over enamel that can also react. I tend not to use Rustoleum most of the time, I and many others have had a lot of issue with the paint, non consistent flow, dry finish, paint reaction, runs BUT in saying that I did just use some on my droid build as I needed a satin beige and it went fine. I guess it could also be shelf life of the paint, doesn't get used much here locally so I gather is on the shelves a long time. For all my armor that needs paint I use automotive acrylic paint, a little more expensive but goes on great, dries very quickly and can be sanded and buffed. You are doing a great job, keep it up

Have you tried wearing since shortening?

Appears there is some slack in those back straps, are they elastic or nylon?

There is no size in the CRL, I would suggest checking with references.

Appears you are correct, but does look a darker grey if you compare on the bottom image, could be a shadow

Nice work trooper, a couple of things you may want to address before the DO's get here, these are suggestions. Belt could come up a bit Ab button paint is a little large, you could also trim the smaller ab plate a little. Shoulder straps could use a little tweak so they are central on the rear You have a bit of a gap between your backplate and kidneyplate, not sure if you can tighten the strapping Ideally the ab top snap is closer to the edge Appears your sight is on back to front, also there shouldn't be any weathering on the grip or T tracks. Also your hengstler looks a little far back Looks as if your butt plate is overlapping the kidney, strapping may be a little tight? Your right rear calf cover strip appears to be covering the top ridge, it's should stop below the ridge like your left Also could you post some further images. both sides of the thigh ammo strip connectors and inside front and both sides of the sniper plate Blaster D ring Ab/kidney rivets closeup Good luck with approval

Not sure what the hold up was with the CRL but thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. I think we have to keep in mind what is game and what we can replicate in real world, also this is basically a standard white TKC With the raised/curved rectangles "II" the render of the costume does not show them although they are there in the game, TKC is the same So for realistic costume I would not have curved. Personally I don't think there is a separate plate, I believe it is weathering as it compares to other areas of the armor, some darkness in the corners but again same as TKC so that could just be dark weathering build up. I do however see something grey in the bottom center of the backplate so could be a screw, a small crew sticker would suffice in my mind. Incidentally not present on TKC A couple of things I did notice from the applicant is the shoulder bells, they have rounded corners and straight sided, the render shoulder bells are curved on the sides but do not have rounded corners. Also the 5th button on the smaller ab plate is lower than the larger ab plate, should beC: The left vertical row of ab plate buttons contain five buttons (fifth button must align one button higher than the top button of the larger button plate). Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. AM back plate is replaced with a more screen accurate version. Vertical raised "I I" humps shall be rounded and not raised rectangles as seen on OT armor. (Suggestion) Interior of back plate has a separate plate (painted gray) which fits over the O I I raised areas. (Suggestion) Back plate has a small screw on the bottom of the gray insert. (Suggestion) There is also the belt, it is a different color and has a center rivet hole Original costume for CRL being sold https://www.501st.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=107569 First post updated with the same info as TKC as they are the same costume just without stripes, what ever get's modified here will also no doubt need adding to the TKC CRL