gmrhodes13

Nice work, a couple of things you could adjust Belt is very low on the front, you may also notice on your left front some frayed thread from your belt Looks like you may have trimmed a little too much from between your teeth, this may be picked up at higher levels, only way to fix would be add some ABS paste to these, sand and polish. Vocoder sides are a little high too. Also when taking photos it is best not to do these in full sunlight, a well lit area inside with a contrasting background works best, your GWL will thank you for it, makes editing your photos for membership profile so much easier. Good luck with approval

Working now, must have been only affecting mobile as working on computer

Hello and welcome, looking forward to seeing your progress. Your images aren't showing for me, perhaps use an online image host such as Imgur, a how to thread is here Good luck with the build

I moved my belt rivets (or snaps in my case), I did sew a small amount of fabric over each of the old holes as well just to make sure the snaps never pulled through being very close to the original hole. A few other references

It's pretty common and happens to a lot of builds because of the angle of the kidney the belt wants to ride higher which drops the belt on the front. If you wear the belt looser I think you will find the butt plate will come into contact with your detonator, you can see in your image the detonator is already pulling backwards, note how close it is to the butt plate. Belts do sit quite high on the back, a little higher than how you have yours now. Personally I would move the rivets so the belt sits a little higher at the front, this would also bring it up a bit on the back. But as Mario suggested you could try some velcro in the center.

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Nice work, good luck with approval. For EIB there are a few things: I would bring your thighs up a bit, also noticed your backplate is sitting a little low so may want to bring that up too. Drop boxes should align with the end of the plastic belt section. You may want to bring your arms up a little, lift the biceps and forearms to give you a little room at your wrists, they are currently hitting your handplates Side ab/kidney gap will need to be reduced also Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide And perhaps try to remove the wrinkles on your belt Canvas belt must be firm / sturdy in appearance. No creasing or sagging  Once again good luck

Nothing better than a BBB, all that excitement, then the panic sets in "I have to put this thing together" Good luck with the build

Much better, well done

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Strapping is a little too loose, perhaps try slightly tighter. There are suppliers of larger shoulder bells but you want to make sure the color matches as there are a lot of differences in color from one armor maker to another. I still think rotating them a little would help but appears you can't go any further with your shoulder strap connection, perhaps try rotating your shoulders a little more forward when taking the photos.

I'm not sure what glue RS uses but if you can't gently pull it off you could trim the elastic just inside the forearm and bicep then glue another piece of elastic on the tops of what is already there. Most haberdashery shops will have elastic, or you could venture onto eBay

Nice work, on the shoulder bells you are closer on the rear than the front so you could adjust these to close the gap on the front. Having the snap point further forward on the shoulder strap elastic helps bring them forward. Nice gaps all round, the only issue is your butt plate gap, you could try tighter strapping or even some V tabs With a heat gun (or oven) you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate. Your ab snap is a little low, may get picked up at higher levels TD screws are a little on the large side, although may not be picked at higher levels Hoping to see you approved very soon, good luck

Nice work, for application photos make sure the area is well lit and try to have a blank background, makes it easier for your GWL to edit photos for your membership profile. You may want to try doubling over the elastic between your ab and kidney as you have a bit of a gap there. Drop boxes should align with the end of the plastic belt section. Belt could come up a little Looks like your shoulder strap has a kink in the middle of it, your backplate is a little higher than the chest, may want to bring your chest up a little so they match and this would allow the shoulder strap to lay flatter. Butt plate is just being pushed back a little, you could try tighter strapping or add some V tabs to help keep it in line. Very big gap between the ab and kidney on this side, you may want to add some kidney shims to reduce this gap. Although gap for basic is not requested it is for higher levels Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide Also note your bicep is sitting outside your shoulder bell, you may want to reduce the strapping between them to hold them up or if you haven't you could add bicep hooks With a heat gun (or oven) you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate. A few adjustments and you should be good to go.

Really the only way would be to remove one end, shorten and then re-glue. Only other option would be to cut the elastic and sew back together. Looks like it is only your right side which has some gap, the left looks fine although you could bring the biceps up which would give you a little more room at the wrists as your left forearm is hitting the handplate.

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

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Correct, you do indeed have a Hero helmet so you will need to add top rivets to your Stunt belt, you can't apply with mixed versions. Here are the CRL's for each if you would like to check anything Hero https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_hero The holster is affixed with four fasteners, two on the top, two on the bottom (two per strap). Fasteners may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws. Stunt https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt The holster is affixed only two fasteners at the bottom, one on each side. Fasteners may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.

If you have wired through the MIC input try using the AUX input on the, I know the aker has an extra power wire through the MIC input which may be causing distortion. There is a thread here about Rom FX and using an Aker, some have had success but not sure how a bluetooth mic would work with the system. Have you tried using a cable mic to see if it changes the distortion.

Left some feedback on your pre approval thread, you may need to supply a few more high resolution images as a few details cant be made out. Most of us can't sit, or we awkwardly try, I find sitting on a corner of a table or chair isn't too bad. Arm movement is restricted and depends on what gaps your arms have, I can just put my blaster in with one hand.

Looking good, just need to confirm as your build thread has Hero in the title but appears you have some Stunt items. For Hero the holster should have 4 attachment points not two I can't enlarge your images as the resolution is a little low and they the become blurry but for Hero the helmet should have only 2 ear screws, 3 ear bumps, bubble lenses and only 6 teeth are cut out.

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Standard images required are Front, Side, Back, Side, Action and Helmet Off, but others may also be requested, depends on your GML (garrison membership liaison) Take photos with a blank background, contrasting to what you are wearing. You can post your images for feedback in the pre approval area https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/193-request-tk-pre-approval/ I believe UKG has an armorer program, check out on their forum, they also have a slightly different way of doing the approval process so you will need to check those details too https://www.ukgarrison.co.uk/forum/

Stickers don't like covering curves, you cold use the water detergent trick but the sticker will take a long time to dry out so you'll be continually pushing until it dries. I use a little heat from a heat gun to help shrink the sticker while I apply pressure, BUT I would caution you it does take a little practice, I tried on a lot of left over sticker material before attempting the actual helmet stickers. Another trick is to cut with a knife and remove excess material, again a little trick

Most appear to use just a generic gloss white. For my FOTK I used an automotive acrylic base white.