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Everything posted by gmrhodes13
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You'd be amazed with what you can do with some clamps and tape, try to also scuff areas which glue will be applied too, helps it adhere. I use some force, clamp then wrap tape around so it stays in place. For anything under any strain I leave the glue cure a little longer 48 - 72 hours before removing the clamps, magnets and tape.
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It's a bit hard to see as there appears to be some reflection in the first image, but T tracks and the grip should be a gloss black as they were plastic, for higher levels the DO's don't insist on gloss finish but they do mention no weathering
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Maeander500 ANH TK Stunt build (MTK)
gmrhodes13 replied to maeander500's topic in ANH (Stunt and Hero)
Looking better, although I think you are still too close at the elbows, biceps are just about to come out (or will do with movement) under your shoulder bells). I would increase the gap at the elbows and bring the biceps up, you will thank me when you start trooping and waving your arms around References show no large tabs on the back of shoulder straps BUT also check how many tabs you have on the front, usually it's one large and 4 to 5 small tabs, although not in the CRL. TD could come down on the belt too, you may achieve this by bending downwards on the clips Also when taking photos just watch the drop box positions and sides abdomen/kidney, should be level Also for higher levels the corners of the plastic belt angles should meet the fabric belt The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt. -
Doggydoc’s Jimmiroquai TFA FO stormtrooper build thread.
gmrhodes13 replied to Doggydoc's topic in TFA Build Threads
You could use some plastic sign to make a backing, glue to both sides of the thighs on the insides, then rough up the plastic with course sandpaper and apply the fiberglass matting and resin (in layers) on top of it. You may still need to finish the fiberglass with a coat of bondo or two to get it really smooth. It's a similar process as they do with pepakura, but with cardboard, fiberglass then bondo. Lots of youtube tube videos around to give you the basics. OTTK but just as an example Another rough example but again OTTK, this was filled with plastic and then ABS paste to fill the seams, you would be using the fiberglass. Don't think I've seen many TLJ/TFA's that have needed expanding. -
ANH Stunt "fitting/adjustment" thread (AP)
gmrhodes13 replied to BAZINGA's topic in ANH (Stunt and Hero)
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Hello and welcome aboard, you will need to request higher access before you can apply for L2 EIB L2 info here https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/18-fisd-expert-infantry-badge-eib-requirements/ Anything blue in the CRL https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt
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Maeander500 ANH TK Stunt build (MTK)
gmrhodes13 replied to maeander500's topic in ANH (Stunt and Hero)
Some feedback for you. You will need to drop your forearms at the wrists as you have a big gap there, it will also give you a bit more room at the elbows. Also the drop boxes should align with the end of the plastic belt, looks like they may be a little inwards in this image. Looking forward to seeing any other images, or if you are finished and ready to seek GML approval you can post in our pre approval area, good way of getting feedback before contacting your GML -
Armor from Denuo Novo
gmrhodes13 replied to FaderMonkey's topic in Getting Started - Read this First!
Great news and glad to hear you finally have your armor. First Order Battle Group is for anything FOTK. 2 areas which need addressing is the seams on the sides of the abdomen and kidney, also the yoke to chest, both have seams which need to be filled. Some use ABS paste then sand and polish, others fill with Bondo or JB weld and once sanded apply paint. When in doubt check our Gallery sections You will also find DN builds in the link Mario posted above. Good luck with the build -
TLJ / TROS CRL Update Work Flow
gmrhodes13 replied to ukswrath's topic in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
Actually they all have the picatinny rail in this scene, you can just make them out in the movie, I've lightened them below No disrespect to your knowledge and hands on perspective but most of the community we don't have this access so we have to take what we see from reference material, two of these references are images of production F-11's made for both TFA and TLJ which have some pretty big differences, outlined in previous posts. We do know several different versions of blaster had been used in TLJ/TROS many references had been posted in this thread and discussed, BUT what we know for certain is production made for TLJ show white mounts and white D rings, which is why that has been used as the base for the CRL, other blasters were carries over from TFA and Stunt/Promo versions, as I posted previously, there are TFA version with TLJ pieces added to them as well (promo standees TROS) TLJ Production TFA Production Just want to make sure everyone knows the reasoning behind only allowing certain items used as base for CRL's even though other variants had been seen and used, they weren't specially made for that particular movie. I can't however speak on behalf of other GML's or the DO's as to whether variants could be allowed. -
Maeander500 ANH TK Stunt build (MTK)
gmrhodes13 replied to maeander500's topic in ANH (Stunt and Hero)
Looking forward to seeing more photos so we can advise on how you are traveling. If ever in doubt we have an excellent gallery section full of references -
Doggydoc’s Jimmiroquai TFA FO stormtrooper build thread.
gmrhodes13 replied to Doggydoc's topic in TFA Build Threads
Been waiting to see feedback on these. Rare I wear my Imperial Gaskets rubber ones, they are restrictive and build up a lot of heat, no air transfer, I now only wear them for LFL or high profile troops, fabric is way more comfortable in my opinion. Looking forward to see how much movement you have once you have the kit all fitted. -
Just some info, blasters are only optional accessories for basic legion approval. For L2 and L3 blasters are required, more info in this thread. Current CRL: OPTIONAL Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below: F-11D Blaster OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Rear sight is painted black. D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap, rectangular in shape and painted white.
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Adding this info here so I don't loose it. One thing I hadn't noticed previously is the position of the rear covers strips, they are not central to the thigh or shin as we have with OTTK's. You can see in the following images the shin coverstrip starts at the end of the ridge (outside). But the thigh has a gap from the thigh lower ridge end to the coverstrip (outside ). Also note the cut of the thigh bottom (mobility cut) is cured, while the shin is straight. Another detail was the outside lower ridge is not the same height as the inner lower thigh ridge. Also looking through the different series and versions they all appear to have these same placements, something which may need to be added to the CRL at least for one of the higher levels. Comparison with our 2 EIB approved ROTK's, built to have central coverstrips. 850 would need some adjustments to the lower thigh ridges as they are square and should be angled. Also square off the shin ridge ends Details our @Deployment Officer Team may want to keep an eye on for future applicants
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Bob's ROTK 850 Armor Works Build Thread
gmrhodes13 replied to Teach-'s topic in Rogue One Build Threads
Thanks for your feedback Justin