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SCTrooper

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by SCTrooper

  1. Good job on getting the armor to fit you. I would lift the ab and kidney just a bit, it looks like its hanging a liitle low and twisting. This will help with the back of the thighs hitting the butt piece. Not sure how you have it strapped, just some minor adjustment. The shoulder bell connection elastic could be just a bit shorter to bring them closer to the connection bridge. I dont think any of this would keep you from EIB, but it would make you look better
  2. Beautiful! I love the hero. Thanks for posting this build.
  3. ATA makes the hero type ears. Also there is no dedicated face plate, so its a stunt made to look like a hero. I made a budget hero like helmet, no bubble lenses yet, the ones I have are difficult to see out of. Just ask ATA to send you hero ears instead of the other ones. TM would be the #1 choice if you have the cash. -----------
  4. Yes they come with the plastic insert and the belt is the correct width 3", pretty good price too.
  5. Nice! I see you took TM's advice on the eyes. The brow trim, trimmed down looks great and really makes a big difference in the look.
  6. The trim in the movie does look a tad narrower. I trimmed about 1/8" off of mine so it's around 1/2" wide. I used a steel ruler and put the trim on the ruler then used another one to cut it. You could trim one side of the rubber trim that way you can switch it back and see the difference, that's what I did.
  7. Nice job! I see you are a sand trooper,is this helmet an upgrade?
  8. no thinner just light coats.
  9. The color look's good. I was wondering why you thinned the paint. The humbrol paint I have was very thin. You could paint the frown a hair bigger, just be sure to stay on the teeth and off the lip.
  10. The vocoder is matte black, I could not find it at the hobby shop so I mixed flat black and gloss black. Nice job so far!
  11. Your almost there, just sandpaper is all that is needed. Just a bit more on the front of the ear in the cheek tube area. You don't have to take anymore off of the back.
  12. This will give you a good idea of how to trim it, looks like you have it pretty close http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=13900&hl=knee+plate&fromsearch=1
  13. Richard, the standard is 20mm for the front of the shins and 25mm or larger if needed for the back of the shins. Enjoy your build. edit: Mathias beat me to it!
  14. Looks like you are almost there.I would leave the back of the ear for now and slowly remove alittle at a time from the front cheek tube area. After you get it closer you can fine tune it
  15. Use the brow trim to gage how close it should be. You don't want it super tight, just enough. The dome doesn't match the face plate perfectly, so don't try to force it flat. Take you time with the ear's, look at some reference pic's. You could trim the eyes out alittle more and the teeth too. take a look at starwarshelmets.com there are lot of pic's on that site. Have fun!
  16. Here is a handy reference, check this out http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16277
  17. I looked a Tom's tutorial and it looks like you have them correct. The give away is that the inner parts of the shin's have the raised simulated finishing strip which you will not be using because the real finishing strip attaches to the outside part of the shin. I think alot of people make the assembly mistake because they are going by the simulated finishing strip and put that part on the outside.
  18. e6000 is super flexable, and if you make a mistake it's easy to remove. I wouldn't worry about the the front of the shins, you"ll see what I mean once you glue it together. the abs is flexable and the shins will open far enough. I am always carefull when putting them on and have not had a problem yet, if you put strips on the inside it will be really strong.
  19. I ditched the suspenders awhile back, just strap everything together so the whole suit hangs on you. Some people use snaps and straps or velcro, and the most accurate way is the wire brackets and straps. I used snaps and elastic. For the chest to the back connection I used nylon webbing. This is how It looks
  20. Hi Kendall, The rt-mod helmet is a good choice and while you are at it get the rt-mod chest and back armor,it looks better than the am chest and back.
  21. Great job Ingrid!
  22. Rusty, Take a look at this, good thing it's a decal http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=16270
  23. Here's some good close ups of the frown trimming and painting http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=16270
  24. Circa 2004, should be good for basic 501st approval. Although you should replace the helmet for something better.
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