Lichtbringer

Again the 5000 as the lowest setting. But as mentioned, as a model and propbuilder i would prefer more torque with way lower speed - 5000 as the highest would be nice, with a starting under 200. Nonetheless, for working on a armor once or twice a year, probably mostly with the sanding drum, it should work acceptable. I use my Aldi one nearly all the time at the slowest setting for that.

What is it´s slowest setting? I would bet still way to high for good control at working with plastic for more than the most basic work. But i have to admit, i´m a tool-nut. And to be true, shaping armor is only rough basic work.

There is no "good" - even the more expensive have crappy bearings and weak motors. That´s why they don´t have any reasonable torque and have to rely on high rpms. I have friends that fried their dremel/proxxon within a half year. ​ Btw, if you know what you do and use the right tool for the right job in a right way ..... some of my cheap ones are still running, 10+ years.

As a modelbuilder i would generalize it down to Dremel is more powerfull and Proxxon is more precise. That said - both are not that impressive to me to justify their price. But they are the most known brands, and people buy and pay for the name, too. For very intricate details (scalemodels) i prefer hand"motorized" tools and drills (all those rotary tools seem to start at way to high rpms for many tasks with plastic), for the standard stuff i use one of the cheap homedepot offerings (ala 20-30€ with a boatload of toolbits, no remorse if it dies), and when it gets more rough i use pressurized airtools.

I would have prefered if they had sanitized the whole stuff much more, but they didn´t. With the still existing wonkyness it doesn´t really matter to me that this is just another wonky part.

No, not working, it´s one of the massive alu cast parts. Only part that can be disassembled is the bipod (well, and the buttstock and the mount for putting it on a gun carriage).

Not only UK, Europe too. The main problem with the doopy is to order one, as they do very limeted runs of these ..... and often those are sold within 1-2 hours. Buyers have to be fast. If something is in the ZIB pricerange ...... i would take the ZIB. The feel of cold metal, hearing the rattling of the bipod ..... that´s priceless. And with 6-7Kg realistic heavy but still half of a real one due to cast alu parts. Less prone to break.

That´s much better. Still not accurate, but way better. That´s a real Graflex (one of mine): -------

That looks not even close to a graflex (or graflex-style).

Be my guest, Brian. The Doopy MK3 seems to be the most detailed/best cast DLT at this time. As i said in my first post, i was short of ordering one when i found this. I then went for this cause it feels, sounds and handles so much more like a real thing than a resin one, and more detailing can be easily attached. Atm i see 3 good alternatives (not counting a deac real one), each for a different reason/use: - the ZIB, for the "real feel" from being all metal - the doopy MK3, for the best detailing - the hyperfirm, for it´s safety factor

Not correct. Here, in the neighbourhood to the dutch border, there are old dialects that use that, too.

Well, i havn´t even started to work on my ZIB MG34. Up to now i do my paperwork, to decide what additional parts i have to machine to make it more real looking. The "green pics" are pics of a RS someone bought and posted in another thread - i used them to show it´s missing the same details than the ZIB. Way different to a DLT that would have been cast from a real MG.

Hi Brian, as the ZIB is a MG34 and the RS is already modified to be a DLT-19 they don´t look the same at the first glance - but when you have the ZIB in hand and are checking hundreds of real MG34 pics to upgrade the missing details on the ZIB, you automatic look at them more carefully. Let´s take this pic first: At the front sight there should be 2 pivots/pins at a real one - the one you see for the sight itself, and another in front of it on the retainer of the flashhider (a fixed cast part on the ZIB). The rear sight on that gun is missing all the details of a real one, just like the ZIB. The trigger is to clumsy and missing all it´s details, just like the ZIB The closure on the top feed cover (the square part with the bump on top right before the buttstock has little rectangular cutouts at each side), but not at the ZIB, and not here. Final, the buttstock - those grooves i´ve only ever seen on the ZIB, not on a real one no matter if made from bakelit or wood. Then the middle sightmount, for the Anti Aircraft sight, the thing between the 2 t-track parts - where you see the shiny spot on the pic there should be a good visible bump on a real one. It´s made from 2 parts that are clamped around the barrel which are hold together with 2 pins, one on the big part on the left sight, and one through the bump. Next is the shiny area over the handle. On a real one there are all the details of the sliding area ot the cocking lever - this one has none of them. And additional it even has the ringbase of the ZIB, where the handle is screwed in. And all that alone from this bad pics, with more detailed pics more evidence would be visible, for sure. But not all is bad - it already has the feed coverbox, the t-track, the disc on the trigger group. On the ZIB i have a real bipod, but a MG42/3 one, as they are easily available as replicas - they are slighly different to the MG34 ones. As here is only a cast one, they could use a correct MG34 one. I don´t know if they ship to you, but the best resin DLT seems to be the Doopydoos MK3. But while i don´t like to handle Hyperfirm ..... it´s rubber is not a bad thing for trooping. I hope that helps, without beeing to anal.

I ordered 19.04.2015 - no info, yet.

I understand that people want it .... but it´s not a bad thing to NOT release it soon. Anovos has a lot stuff on their backlog they should focus on delivering first.

Looks OK for me, but as with the FO helmet i assume we´re gonna see some better and some not so good preeassembled helmets.

Seems you all are way more forgiving than i ever was or will ever be.

And?

Not the daily fluctuations - it´s the generally exchange rate what seems to bother Cladius.

It´s the same for me, but it´s just the way the law is, and how customs act. And the exchange between currencies is also not new, it´s something each buyer has to think about before ordering outside his own currency.

Handling a Hyperfirm always reminds me more to handling a police rubber baton than a gun replica. Which is probably no bad thing inside a crowd, not as good looking as a nice replica, but less damage when you hit someone.

Please don´t mix it. Biggest part is the picked VAT (19% here in Germany). This is the most visible and angering add on, but only cause you see it here directly. You pay that for each item you buy in your country, too - it´s just hidden so you didn´t notice it. Duty taxes are what Dan mentioned, a punishment from our governments to keep us buying local traded stuff - but at our hobby stuff (nothing what the government tries to create a monopol for inland industries, way to small for real interest) it´s usually a rather small percentage, mostly around 3-4% only. But again, you notice it when ordering yourself, but they are also on each foreign item "made in ......" you buy in a local shop. Again, just hidden. The handling fee is the payment for having a Fedex representative handling the customs stuff (it takes time, you pay your car-mechanic and your gardener per hour, this is not any different). Additional they pay money in advance at the customs, of course they not only want it back 1 to 1, your bank also gives you no money for free. Edit: Please let me know if my blabla is boring.

Those 20% are probably no duty fees, i assume it´s only the VAT. When something arrives here the customs collect the 19% VAT, additional they check the harmonized system customs tariff number of the goods, For some they have to charge a certain % of customs fee,how much % will depend on the imported goods. Both, VAT and custom fees, will be calculated on the lumpsum amount from price of the goods AND it´s shipping costs. If the amount to be paid is under 5€, they don´t collect it as it´s to much paperwork for that small amount. That means goods for under 20-25€ (price and shipping) are free, above that you need to pay. I wouldn´t wonder if it´s more or less the same in each EU country. If you had it handled another way, your customs is lazy, not good watching - or you are esspecially lucky and should try the lottery. If i had to guess ..... i would say around 90% of my parcels i have to pick up at the customs.

It depends on how Anovos handles this. Easiest would be if each parcel/part shipment would be handled separate with it´s own partial invoice and declaration on the outside - that way it´s as separate orders.

Maybe. But it´s a long shot. I order a lot, and most parcels i have to pick up at the customs office, only very few slip through (and, in EU. if they do this and you don´t bring them to notice yourself ...... a long and sad story, most governments are not pleased if taxes are not paid). So your chances are good to pay then shipping to your sister, from her to you, additional the taxes - and in the worst case some penalty (unlikely but possibly) For not paying double at separate shipments, the paperwork should be accordingly. Edit: Oh, and you pay the same tax with every item you buy, be it a lawnmover or a microwave - the only difference is that you don´t see it when buying in a local shop.