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Lichtbringer

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Everything posted by Lichtbringer

  1. THAT makes absolutly no sense. For beeing used as grips it would be better to use rubber, for beeing cooling fins it would make more sense to use metal. Using plastic was just another "what do we have in the dumpster that we can glue on"-decision.
  2. Ah, much better. Never trust a pic. Still ... i think the "7" is more prominent/visible as the small engraving M38/M40, surrounded with all the other text. But thats more a personal preference than anything else.
  3. The A2s are wrong shaped, they need the "flat part" (where lighting was/is added) bondoed and sanded. The brasscolored needs it´s frontfeet milled down, the same with it´s other brass-humps on it´s belly. And the No. 4 has a destroid rear feet, needs bondo and sanding, too. Sure, all can be used, one way or another. Bondo and sanding is easy, i could mill the feet down if it was mine - but all that would simulate a shape they didn´t had originally, the M40 is the one with the real shape. If i would be you and have to choose between them, the decision would be easy: First and only winner is the "M40", then long nothing, then fixing the 2 M38. The A2 i would only consider after a loooong search for a better matching variant without success (that´s why they are that cheap, usually not over 50-60$). But as you have the M40 already ........ Bingo.
  4. There is another version, imho the most used: Standard version with a Hengstler "H" on the place and in the size of the big eagle. Eagles are usually a sign for beeing used or produced for Government or civilian authorities. On one you can read: "Patent applied for DBP angem." DBP is "Deutsche BundesPost" (German Federal Postal Service) - up to some years before the complete postal service was in federal hands. Maybe they were used in the machines to count letters/making automated printed stamps......
  5. Seems only the second from above is useable.
  6. No John, only the brasscolored one, with the stripped paint. I disassembled, cleaned, assembled and repainted it - and then it replaced the resin one on my real sterling.
  7. My real M38 (from 43, but no A2 version) has the 7 on it´s side: -------------
  8. Something that way: ------------ The end of the scoperail is L-shaped downwards, and a small Allen-screw goes through the rearsights hole into the threaded "L". Not the best pic (wasn´t made to show that special detail), but you can see the cylindrical head of the Allen-head inside the sight.
  9. Me again ...... yeah, the nasty guy with his stupid guns. Yesterday 2 layers of flat black as a base, and today this babys parts got 2 final layers of fast drying tough stove paint (it has a perfect shine, not to much but some). And after that i couldn´t resist, before going to the office i had to assemble the parts. :happy As you see there is no weathering yet, i want it to dry for some days before i hammer it - it will get no much weathering, the Empire doesn´t tolerate sloppy maintenance. The grip got a layer of "Future" for it´s shinyness. OK, OK, i will shut up and show some pics. With the M38 scope: With a M19 scope: And some closeups from different angles: Alltogether i´m glad that i did it this way, and havn´t used it for the kits intended use, building a ROTJ DH17 Rebel-Blaster. And it´s not as small as this pic may suggest.
  10. Another piece which received today And here a part of it at it´s workplace:
  11. Thanks , but first i need better weather outside, for using spraycans.
  12. The main part of the work is done. The M19 fits better than the M38, and it´s a nice hommage to its bigger brother
  13. As nobody has any ideas, thoughts, improvements, whatever ..... i assume everything is perfect? :ohbaby Or is it just boring? Well, some may remember i had used a delrin part with a piece of alu-tube for the barrel ....... after carefull deliberation i decided: I don´t like it, needs more weight, more metal. I made some new parts: Assembled them: And installed them on the receiver: Way better. I´m getting closer and closer to the point where i have to decide the place for the grip. At the end, more "pistol" like: Or close to the mag, that leaves a long part behind the grip, something that is a integral part of a Sterling/E-11 for me Or in the middle, to combine the both: Atm, i tend more to "close to the mag".
  14. Here we go again. You guys remember that strange creation i made as "anchor" for fastening the magholder? Here is the reason: I filled it with a very strong and sticky 2K-Epoxy, around 8mm high - that should hold. And i turned a plug from delrin, slighly bigger in diameter than the bolt - should give a smoother slide-action. It goes all the lengt through the bigger part of the bolt, that way it gives some beef for a stable pullrod, too: The front half is filled with hotglue. That should dampen the impact a little bit when working the slide. Open: And closed: Thanks for watching. If you have any ideas, thoughts, improvements, whatever ..... don´t hesitate to chime in.
  15. Still made no decision regarding the scope-question, but i started working on the basics that need to be done for every version. I wanted to have the grip as close to the real deal as possible, so i couldn´t just glue the parts together: To achieve this, i drilled a hole with various diameters into the grip itself, and aligned and epoxied a XXL long nut as integral part into the trigger mechanism. To line it up properly for a smooth function was ******, but it is done. Next step was to alter the trigger mechanism - it was just a flexible piece of plastic that pushed the trigger back after using it. That´s nothing what can be accepted by german engineering standards , so i modified it to be driven by a spring. I made a tigh fit delrin-endplate on my lathe, and secured it with 4 Allen-head-screws. Same look as on a original MGC. On the barrel side it has a step, to center the barrel: This construction was made to serve as a "anchor" for the epoxy when mounting the mag-holder. I don´t trust simple glueing, i prefer to have it more beefier. Thats all up to now - i hope it may help someone some day.
  16. I´m no pro if it comes to the finer details from suits, but most people out there are much less. They don´t recognize differencies between details on your armor that would downright jump in your eyes. But people moving "wrong" is visible, you maybe can´t point on it, but it´s there and it makes the whole situation "unreal". You can build a nice blaster from plastic and paint it so it looks like metal, you even might be able to look appropriate on a pic, due to posture and attitude - but not when moving. A nearly 2,5Kg real Sterling has a lot of its weight in the fronthalf, it´s not as easy to wield as a 1 Kg blaster, even not for a strong guy. A question of inertia. Without weight it looks like a adult wielding a toy. I´m not talking against pipe blasters (damn fine out there), just add weight to them, it adds to their realism. And getting better is the goal for beeing centurion, at least thats what i understand when reading here. I would never suggest such to the average trooper who does some costuming to have some party on a event - i just thought the centurion thing aims for higher levels.
  17. Congratulations. But that pic rememberd me immediatly what bothers me most, when seeing Stormies (or others). It´s not any biceps overlap or helmet versions. It´s the plastic guns, more specifically: their lack of weight. It immediatly looks completly wrong how a person moves with a to light equipment. You move in a specific way as you have to handle some weight. I´ve read the "try to troop with xyz all day" - but that´s exactly what real soldiers do, too. If you can´t hold it - get stronger. I´m not suggesting that everyone should use a real Sterling, no way - but it might be not the badest idea to request some weight in the guns. Like "plastic or whatever for starters is fine, EIB needs half the weight of a full up-greeblied Sterling, and Centurion must have the full weight". It´s the same as with middleage reenactment - you can/do notice the guys with light aluminium chainmail and weapons immediatly due to their different "acting". Just my 2 cents. From a unbiased outside, not trooping, point.
  18. I like the M38, but i have already one on my Sterling. A RPF-user mentioned to try a M19 - as it is smaller, and this gun is smaller a a E-11, i think i give it a try. I will take the M19 from my ESB DL-44, and have a look. And as you can see in the back of the front-pic, i also have a 4x20 scope ready to use. It is planned to be used on the coming EE-4, but maybe it would look nice on this also? Kind of like the SE-14 on the banner on top of this page. Thank god i can change my mind until i have the gun ready - only then i need a definite decision. And maybe it´s better to evaluate after the gun is assembled and all painted black. I hope so.
  19. It should - it´s a replica-kit, designed to build a ROTJ Rebel DH-17 without chopping a real MGC. It´s really good made. That´s the initially reason why i bought it ... but it has to much plastic parts for my taste, i prefer my screenseen guns to be made from metal and real parts. The receiver-tube is steel, so ist the bolt, too. The cast MGC-grip and the magazine are made of resin. And the rear sight and the magholder are made from plastic. The triggergroup is a combination of mostly plastic, and some metal-parts (trigger, bolts etc.). The cap on the rear is from a original canadian sterling - it looks very close to the MGC-cap.
  20. I might chop a MGC up .... later - cause i planned to use a MGC for a DH-17 build, if possible. That way there would be the most, but still subtle, differences to my ANH E-11 - even with both coming from a similar designed weapon. But first i need to find one of that cuties for a reasonable price.
  21. Keep cool - "no real MGC-Sterlings were harmed to get these pics".
  22. Hi there, i had a stupid little idea, and it´s all TK1961s (user at RPF) fault. :lol He showed his nice build of a E-11 pistol: My E-11A1 Blaster Pistol - and made me feel a need for having my own one. So i went in my shop and found some parts, basically a nice DH-17 kit that i purchased a short time ago from Odiwan. Really a excellent kit made by Bowjunkie, but a little bit to much plastic parts for my personal preferences. That kit and some other parts from the partbox brought me to this: The grip and trigger rearranged some cm to the back, and the mag on the front underside, still without any scope Or with a scope? I could offer a M38: Or a Singlepoint: Or a real one, don´t remember what: A pic from the business-end: And a closeup of the nozzle Still a lot of details to think about, build it? If yes, what version? Or resell the DH-17 kit to someone who´s searching for such a kit? I like it´s look ..... a little bit like a beloved child from a E-11 and a SE-14. :love As it is no gun we´ve seen in the movies, it would be a good opportunity for me to use the kit and some of the plastic parts i collected in the past. You will notice over time that i usually prefer metal and/or original parts for my blasters. Well, i´m open to any of your thoughts and suggestions.
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