BlueGrot

Also provided that your monitor is calibrated.

To make troopers who have perfectly fine TKboots have to get some jodhpurs and dye them is too much imo. Scuffed boots is fine tho.

As the goal is to differentiate further, I think one should move a significant step towards SA, e.g 2 rivets visible on butt bridge, No return edge on front of forearms, Etc.

While I have no say so in deciding the what's and how's in the qualification criteria, I would expect them to emphasize what has been done to strive for a great build rather than what make the armor is. If e.g. Pandatrooper's AM-build doesn't qualify, I would consider the new Award Program to be a bit too narrow.

Inform them that our laws are extremely lax on the subject of replica/de-activated weaponry.

No you didn't! You forgot to press check out! No glue arrived so the build has been a bit on hold. I need some new stickers as I've notice the blue stripes are crooked on the lid, and I'm gonna paint the stuff anyhow. Might as well add some ANH and ESB lid stickers.

My head is a formidable 7â… - 7¾", but I fit screen accurate helmets, just with a bit less padding.

Never mind! I went for it and attached the sides. It's gonna look good.

It's impossible to get the rivets as close as in those pictures without having the brow being close to move-along-trooper height. Will take pics.

I'm trying to piece my CAP-W together and a struggle is that when the sides of the cap/back is flush to the faceplate, the brow sticks out too much, and when the brow sits nicely, it's impossible to get the sides flush. When I rivet these together, are the sides supposed to be flush, or is there a gap to be covered by the ears?

He won, but the court did in no way agree with his claims of scultpting the original design.

Yes, I ordered some Thursday.

I did a fast fitting before bed time to show you guys. Here the gap is maybe a bit too small for my tastes, As I'm so tall, I know there'll be gaps and it's better to spread them out in acceptable lengths than to have some non-gap areas and some gap. The right thigh has sunk because of a strap button gone missing. I will as mentioned earlier fit some elastic to the back of the thighs to tighten the gap between butt and thighs, but I don't count on getting very much done here. It's all getting as good as it can get, gap wise. 10 days ago: Gratuitous jolly pic

I will be doing that yes, just didn't want to use my coarse utility knife. I now have an exacto knife kit which will be great for the job. I've also padded the forearms and thighs to keep them in place, a very successful modification.

Oopsie! I've been painting the inside of the helmet, forgot to put them back!

That thing is sharp! And I ain't talkin' 'bout the scissors.

Less words, more pictures! Here you see that the butt is too high, I have now fixed this with a thicker piece of elastic. The back is also riding up, because of the elastic between the chest and back, I have fixed this with elastic between the chest and kidney, effectively making the backpiece a part of the kidney-butt-crotch-ab clam system. I will take some new pictures once I get dinner done. This is also the first fitting where I did not break into a sweat putting it on. Making the crotch elastic detachable has done wonders, so I now get the thighs on, then calves, then clam, then chest/back, hook the shoulder/biceps into place and fit the forearms.

I agree on the weathering. [EDIT]

In Norway, this is known by car enthusiasts as volvotrim. U-shaped 3mm trim.

Those scissors work because of the large handles and short blades. This means that alot of energy is translated in the cut, like the gears on a bike. The short blades also help to cut along curves where unwieldier scissors might collide with areas, making the cutting hard.

Aaaaand TKboots ordered

3 tubes of e6000 ordered from tk-4510!

Voted, but that's some steep competition. Impressed by the high quality of alot of them.

Drats on you americans and your fear of including chemical names on products! Will try to find a Norwegian alternative. I'm also thinking I'll reinforce the entire suit with glue and fabric. E6000 recommended here too? Seems like I'll have to get significant amounts of the stuff. Heat gun on the sides of the butt seems like overkill as I can easily poke them back and I'd ignore it if they didn't push the drop boxes out of alignment.

Now that both my gloves are here I tried getting the suit on and a couple of issues occured. Nothing I don't know how to remedy but I thought I'd bring it by you. First of all the elastic on the shoulder connecting to the rest of the suit came undone. No biggie, it was the first one I did and I didn't rough up the plastic with sand paper so it adhered badly. Will order some e6000 come paycheck tomorrow. Getting the calves on without help was a hassle until I made the crotch elastic detachable. Now I can put the thighs and calves on first before clamming the ab and back around myself. The sides of the butt piece flare outwards due to the stress on the piece, Figuring I'll reinforce the elastic on these sides to keep them flat with my body. And the most serious one: an elastic in the center of the upper ab rim to keep the chest in piece has been too tightly fitted, and there seems to be a bit thin pulling in the return edge, resulting in hairline cracks in the bend of the edge. I just let the pieces be until I can get some proper materials, but I'm figuring I'll use glue plastic strips on the back side of the ab return edge to reinforce it and keep it from spreading + fill any cracks that have occured with resin. Is plastic weld used sparingly useful on HIPS?