TKDUEUNO

Here's how I did mine: Just like Stukatrooper my belt/suspenders/thighs_straps are all integrated. The chest and ab are not connected, once I put the armor on I connect the chest to the suspenders to keep everything tight. This way the chest can overlap the ab plate freely and gives me more freedom of movement. The biceps are connected to the shoulder bells with a looped elastic. Ab and kidney are connected on the left with rivets/elastic and on the right with a single snap+velcro. The snap tabs on the butt plate are a bit closer one another than the ones on the kidney: this way when you're not wearing it the butt part isn't aligned, but when you put it on it aligns perfectly with the kidney and the pieces don't overlap. Chest and back are connected with a black elastic which has also the straps for shoulder bells and the white elastic to keep the ribbed straps down. Easy! Hope that helps!

If you lower the biceps, the forearms will fall in the right place, or maybe you'll need to reduce a bit the distance between them. The less black gap, the better! Here's mine: And here's some reference: I'd bring the left shoulder closer, the thighs are good as they are IMHO. The belt isn't yet attached to the ab plate with snaps, but you're gonna do that, right? (Isn't a great sensation when you put the armor on for the first time? )

I'd lose the suspenders and the straps connecting chest and back, connect the kidney to the back and the chest to the ab plate, connect with rivets the kidney and ab on the left and with velcro on the right. (Or you can do as I did: I have integrated the belt/suspenders/thigh_straps and connect the chest to the suspenders, works like a charm. In this way the chest is well pressed against the body, but can overlap the ab plate freely giving me easier movement.) In other words, the accurate way You undo the crotch and the right shoulder straps, open the armor like a clamshell and get in, close the side/crotch/shoulder. I'm 5'8" too, and to perfectly fit in my TM I had to heat and bend down the strap parts on the back piece to "lift" everything up, it worked

No more heating, it's perfect like that, glue it and rivet it!

Thank you, man!

I love it! http://www.flickr.com/photos/brandongriffi...57622043546373/

Exactly, I cut mine too at 45° And it was my first build too

I did that too! You're doing a very clean, neat and precise build, bravo Paride!!!! It's gonna be an awesome armor!

Hi Greg, I'd go Stukatrooper's way, he achieved perfect result with Hammerite gloss black smooth, than knocked off the gloss with fine steel wool, then weathered it. Look here, there's also some explanation of the process and colors used: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stukatrooper/...57604574695630/ Gloss paint is more resistant than flat, so less prone to chip. ciao Pablo

Let's hope that this doesn't lead to bad consequences for the 501st and for us in other countries...

Thanks Joey! Another important thing is to make the small space behind the speaker airtight, as explained also by Launchpad: "The speaker must be installed in the aerator or equivalent sound casing (enclosure) for the maximum acoustic level to be produced, in other words volume. Example: Cup the speaker in your hand and notice the increase in volume. All speakers have this effect. The more air tight behind the speaker, the louder the volume will become. With some experimenting, the right size enclosure will maximize the level of sound produced. There must be some sort of small area behind the speaker, like a home speaker has a speaker box." Also Launchpad now has some new speakers which are even more powerful than the previous ones!

I'm very proud to announce that my TM has made it on StarwarsHelmets.com!!! You can find it in the TM section: http://www.starwarshelmets.com/tm_helmet_and_armor.htm It's an honor! And I'm in good company with Rolf Thank you Jez, thank you very much!!!

I don't think it's a good idea to line the whole helmet with velcro, especially because I think it will really slow down the air circulation, smooth is better IMHO. Not to mention if you have to reassemble the helmet... I'd go with black Plastidip.

You don't want to do that, VERY DANGEROUS!!! If not properly charged or defective THEY EXPLODE, so it's a big NONO to use them in your helmet or anywhere on your body.

I think that two, asd, I mean, I think that too

Mòvite, orcocàn!!!

Thank you guys!!!

Hi Jory, I like to make things myself and learn new things too! I used these microspeakers, they're very good:----------- And here's a trick I used to increase the volume if you're gonna mount them into the aerators:----------

I'd go for an empirical approach, arrange a meeting with a guy with the helmet you want and try!

Thank you guys, I'm honored!!!!!

I just discovered that I've been awarded with one FISD service medal and I'm flattered! Thank you guys! Can I ask for what precisely? ;p

I used a black elastic, it's comfortable and invisible, you can use a white one if you want something more accurate. Since it's a delicate and narrow part I preferred not to weaken it by drilling holes, so I glued a snap plate on the inside just like on the rest of the armor. If you want total accuracy you go with the two visible snaps. The drop boxes were, well, boxes, so they were closed on the back. I'll suggest white elastic to hold them, so it can stretch a bit and not stress the belt. Yes, a black belt with black elastics to hold the thighs. The shins are held in position by the boots only, no strapping there. If I remember well it was all elastic, no webbing anywhere, right Paul?

I think this is the best way. I used the same method and it rocks, lenses are perfectly installed and you can remove them easily to clean or replace.

I'll search in my Latin dictionary as soon as I get back home.

My beloved TM: