Locitus

Uuuuh, look at the softness of that backplate..

If your EFX helmet is weathered the way I think it is, you'll be better off to redo the helmet at the same time as you weather the armour.

Shins are best joind with ~20 mm cover strips. You can stray from this measure if you need to but if you use 20mm for the legs and 15 mm for the arms you get the right proportions. Good luck and keep posting!

There is a reason why TM has an achievement award, and he keeps earning it time and time again. Thank you Paul for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.

It is on mine too.

It's moulded to the blaster ie static.

Btw Vern, all the armors were the same, only the hero and stunt helmets were made from different materials.

It's a recast. The first sentence alone gives it away; "This mold is from the AP mold series". There is only AP, not a line of them. Secondly, no real AP helmet is cast in resin, they are all vacuum formed ABS.

Do both!

AP is way better than SDS anyway, so don't feel bad about that.

Congratulations!

Karin makes a good point. If you want to talk TM helmet linage then make a new thread for that to bash it out in. If it's not important enough for any of you to do that I say we go back on topic.

Most likely recast AM. Avoid!

That's exactly what it is

The original suits used 1" white elastic. Can't go wrong with that.

See the links above.

If I was running a scam I would be pretty pissed if people didn't bait too. Good luck with your AP or whichever you end up with. Pretty much any armour recommended on this forum is miles better than what you normally find.

I think it's TE2-derived. There are multiple flaws and cracks in the helmet for example. Anyone buying that would not be able to build a complete costume.

It stands for "Expert Infantry Badge". It is our tier two costume award for those that want to go a bit further than the out-of-the-box look without having to go all in. That is what Centurion, our tier three award is for.

If you are 5"7' then any of the screen derived armours (ATA, AP, CFO, RS and so on) or TM should fit you just fine with some minor modifications. Some say that AP is the smaller of those I mentioned. I'm about 5"10 and really slim and wear my TM just fine height-wise. For girth I needed some extra trimming for get a good fit. DO NOT get AM despite it's low prize (on par with ATA), you'll be swimming inside it without extensive modding and then you'll want to get a new helmet because the AM helmet is not much to look at.

Hurray! We saved one! No, don't get their blaster or other parts either. It's all sub-par. Keep reading here on the forums and you'll see what else is out there that is better. Here's a comparison between the jedi-robe E-11 (upper) and a SDS (middle). Photos curtesy of Arnie_DK. ------- Hasbro (top), Jedi-robe (middle), SDS (bottom) ---------- The resin kits from doopy doo or the already finished hyperfirms (not pictured) are even better!

Yes, so that the ridge on the knee plate is on top of the ridge on the shin.

It does, but not so much. Try to align the sides of the knee plate with the ridges in the top of the shin. Like in your last picture, the plate could sit a bit higher, then to the same on the other side.

No shortcuts!

There are many kinds of open sorce licenses, some are more restricting, some are less. But the principle of sharing the code so others can benefit from it is the common trait. I love open source.