Locitus

Not me! I'll play around some with the 4 button big brother version later. It's so cheap and the shipping was excellent so even if it would turn out to not suit your needs perfectly, it's no great loss.

While they do seems to be a bit too far back, it's not something that matter too much.

I don't have a hasbro E-11 to compare with (and I'll never get one either!). Sound quality is fine. The little brother version can record in 8 and 12Kb sample rate for a slightly higher sound quality sacrificing length. Although 50 seconds is far more than I need for my 2 second blaster sound sample. The speaker included is probably better than the one in a hasbro, but I can't compare as I mentioned. And it easy to replace with a bit of soldering. The sound is activated when the button is pressed and stops if it's pressed again while the sound clip is playing. In the software it's possible to change to a loop started and stopped by button press (not needed in a blaster though). The big brother version has more software settings for what happens on button presses, but I haven't played around with that yet. On both kits there's a small red LED flashing while sound is playing. I suppose that you could remove it, and hook up some wires to the LED or a bigger one mounted somewhere else. But it will flash, not shine continuously as you might want for a laser effect.

I just got the package with the two sound boards today. I've only played around with the simpler 1 button version (http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2841/.f) so far. I'd say that it is a pretty nice little thing. While the software used to write the audio to the board is windows only and maybe a little buggy, it does what it should. The sound board is like that too, it's small and cheap. It has no bells and whistles but it does what it should. The push buttons might be a little too large to be able to hide if you intend to mount the permanently on your prop, but anyone with basic soldering skills should find it easy to replace them or extend the wires.

No kidding! I've been falling behind since before I even finished my build.

Haha, yeah I did. Gosh, it was a long time ago since I did those shins. There was barely any public reference material to look at.

Plus I only use 2 hooks. So that's not really right either. The holes are actually in the half that does not have the cover strip glued on to it. The holes do however get consealed by the cover strip when the shin is closed.

The hooks hook into small holes in the other half of the shin.

May your next 3000 be equally good.

Original TE2 pop up for sale once in a while but TE2 does not make many new helmets these days. But you can get an ATA cheaply and it's pretty much identical.

You'll be spending more money recasting makerofthings than you would buying a new kit from a reputable seller.

Yeah, that looks better. Of course, it's hard to tell until you're completely finished, but it's better than before.

Chest and shoulder bells could come up a bit.

Thanks Morten. Steve is right, even if I know all the details because I've followed the build thread from the start does it mean others know that. Full disclosure and transparency is key.

Feel free to add a few more helmet detail pics. We all like looking at helmets anyway.

Only thing I can think of is to paint the knee belt rivets, but that's just nit-picking. Easy pass Morten.

Well in that case I guess it was no greater loss.

Great info Robert! And awesome blaster you got there. A real bad a$$. Too bad you had to loose the crinkle coat though.

i would put all it in. But I didn't have to do this with mine. But don't worry, they aren't going to melt or anything, just get a little soft. I put my TD end caps in boiling water when I needed to fit them onto the pipe.

Boil them in water for a few minutes. That should help to ease the bending. Or get a hot air gun. Do not use snaps.

You are becoming the NG blaster master.

That IS looking great. The scope might be a little over-weathered compared to the rest, but I think you said it was a real scope, so I can understand if you don't want to mess with that. Maybe weather the blaster itself a bit to make it match?

Yes they should follow the curve of the helmet or they will look very weird.

About the width of a standard pencil.

The inside size of the helmet comes down mostly to assembly. Of course there will be a limit to how large you glasses can be as well. If you don't want to use contacts you may want to consider getting a slim pair of glasses if you do't have a pair already. I for one have not regretted switching to contacts. It was the most liberating feeling ever to be able to see equally good in all corners of my eyes, not just where I had my head pointed at.