Locitus

If you think you can pull this off then I'd be happy to assist in any way I can. Open source and if possible open hardware would be very helpful for the community long term.

Easily the nicest incinerator I've seen to date

If you have the part number of the LED you can find the datasheet online at some retailer that sells that LED. Then you can use the same formulas that you have been given already. And even if you don't have that, you can find a similar LED and use those values and it will most likely work just fine.

Maybe you should email ERV then, since he seems to be the only one that knows how to do it.

The same math behind selecting resistors goes for any LED. Just substitute the values with those from your selected LED's datasheet.

In a world where electronics follow the laws of physics and where LEDs and 9volt batteries have been invented.

So just change the values to something that suits you. But my example is very "real-world".

You want the size of your resistors to use for your leds. Let's say you hook your blaster core up to an input voltage of 9 volts from a normal battery. If we follow Ohm's Law, that gives us the formula for R=V/I or Resistance = Volt / current. The maximum current you may draw through your LEDs per instruction in the PDF is 2.25 mA. Now you know 2 of 3 variables, and can solve the equation. If we add the numbers into the formula we get R = (9 - 3.3)/ 0.0025 = 228 ohm Es is the source voltage, measured in volts (V), Eled is the voltage drop across the LED, measured in volts (V), Iled is the current through the LED, measured in Amperes (Amps/A), and R is the resistance, measured in Ohms (Ω). http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/led_resistor_calculator.php

You do not need to own a blastercore to understand which resistors are needed at a certain input voltage to not have your LEDS burn out. This is pure math, and following instructions.

Your GML was right. Those forearms are like 2 inches too wide. You should take them apart and redo them with cover strips to hide the bad plastic the ABS glue will leave behind.

You should emulate the look of the original armour regardless of if you are using shims or not. The rivets sit about 1 cm from the split between ab and kidney. Follow this regardless of shins or not because else it will only look strange. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

A member created some CNC files for his build, which is a very impressive build. You can grab the files and read more here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21771-ducatis-build/

Simply put - because it's how you put your suit together that matters rather than the origins. I am not happy about recasting. Even more so when reputable vendors do it. I feel very sorry for RS in this case. The main reason why we discourage people here from buying on ebay is because of the lack of quality. You will end up with crap compared to the alternatives. NE sort of gets away with their recasting because it puts quality kits into the hands of the masses, and hopefully that pushes out some of the FX kits. But am I happy about their ways of doing so? Absolutely not.

My M19 casting has this: TELESCOPE, M19 NO. 13279 M.H.R CO. 1942 ------- D.A *The line of dashes is a solid line.

Looks like a jedirobe kit. Those are to be avoided.

Good work on the changes. Approved!

Nope. Just an old FX that is pretty much much worthless these days. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

Which makes it so funny to me how the FX is still eligible for 501st approval whilst the Marco isn't. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

Here Mr No Stripes is the same helmet as in Tantive IV, but most of the others are added ROTJ-style promo suits. I don't have the theatrical release on my computer to show a comparison of the same scene as it was originally made, but I'll try to remember to have a look at it later.

Some are. But not all.

It's still only 1 helmet that was used in multiple scenes. The scenes where you see several of him at once are digitally added in the special editions.

Nope.

If I was ruler of the world then they should have to update to comply with the current basic CRL. Sadly, I am not. So already approved members are not required to keep their costumes up to date. And it is certianly a hot-potato whenever it is brought up on legion level - as strange as it may seem. No one can force a member to update their costume. Only if they become inactive and then are forced to re-apply for membership can the new CRL be enforced. A broken costume that is deemed unfit for trooping can also be required to be repaired before it is allowed for trooping.

http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/11610-eib.png