gazmosis

Sweet gloss on that Armor young man. Good luck!!!!!

Sooooooooooo Andy, How you gonna build it?

Who's gonna check. "O.K. Sir, it's time to check your rivet.....turn your head and cough"

Look forward to seeing you all suited up!!! Did you decide who is going to be your helmet maker?

Boy Karin. It's a shame that you have had these issues. I and a friend have received you guards with no issues as have dozens of others. If you are starting to have issues, perhaps you should consider a U.S. maker you can strike a deal with to make and ship from directly in the U.S. Just a thought.

There really are no CLEAR, up close photos to reference. But honestly, of all the blaster threads and photos I have seen, the main focus is on the cylinders themselves and not really on the fuses in between. Just to be safe, I would not put too much emphasis on these fuses and stick with the cylider detail. If there is a way to back up(by photos) what you are building then by all means go for it. I just have not seen it. Doesn't mean it doesn't exist, though.

No problemo. Tiene una buena aloha!!!

Hey Eric: Remember that whichever measurement shows on the rivet box that you're using is the width if the stem of the rivet itself. I also assume that you are talking about the rivets that secure the belt straps to the holster itself. Any stem size will work as long as you have a washer on the back. Although there is no "standard" for this size, 5/16 head size across seems to be a good size. Just make sure your rivet is long enough to make it through the small square of leather on top, the holster, the strap, and a washer on the back. After you pop it, turn the holster over and take a hammer and gently hammer the rivet nub flat. This will prevent scratching the snot out of your thighs. That's just what I did.

IF anyone has painted their armor before, it is well known that preparing the surface is the key factor in whether or not it succeeds or fails(paint wrinkling or lifting). My question regards cleaning the surface of the styrene without melting it (as is the result of some paint thinners). In sizing up my armor, I used masking tape as most do to hold the armor halves together. After taking the tape off, it left a bit of the adhesive behind. I used a type of "goo gone" to get this off. It worked great and cleaned the heck out of the pieces to where it looks like I can actually paint it now. Has anyone done this? Am I asking for trouble? Or should I just go old school with a scrubby pad or some hyper-fine sandpaper?

Sorry it took so long to answer. The PTT is inside the glove but I first put on a latex glove under the main glove to combat a moisture issue I had. This works great.

AWWWWWWWWwwww!

WOW! Just WOW!

Where's the pic of you in it? Awsome armor!! Why do the thighs look so wavy?

Most of your armor pieces when held at an angle to the light will show the return edge. Just trace it with a pencil first and follow that line when cutting . Remember that there should be NO return edge at the wrists on the forearms. Returns were sculpted into the armor for the sole purpose of giving the armor a "thick" appearance.

This seems to be popping up often. The final result SHOULD look like Rob's with the 45 degree corners meeting at the belt. However with as many belts being made for sale, and the varying widths that these belts are made, you are just as well to cut a little off the corners to get the 45's and leave it at that. No one has been penalized (EIB or Centurion) yet. I believe, since there are exacting standards with so many things, belt makers should adhere to 2 7/8 or 3 ". 3 1/4" is just too wide to acheive that look.

Although it's best to stay away from Eblech all together for armor, the main thing I see wrong with it is that it was assembled wrong. The parts that need to be butt joined then covered with a connecting strip have just been overlapped. I don't know what level of accuracy you wish to obtain, but anyone should be concerned with pre-assembled armor. If it doesn't fit, you're out 5 bills and that hurts no matter who you are. We can't tell you what to do, but if you want your to be truly "yours" then look to one of the armor makers here.

I just dealt with ATA for some replacement parts. He deals in both ABS and styrene if you want to paint it yourself. He was fast and fair. For being as busy as he is, his responses to e-mails were quick. The armor itself is durable and is a dream to work with. I'm happy.

You got some mad skills, blaster Bro!!! Any trooper would be proud to carry that E-11!!!

I spend sooooo much time looking at ANH and ESB that I never really had a chance to take a good look a ROTJ TK's. The ears just seem to not protrude as far out as in the other films. Tha actual ear part that has the rank bars on it seems about as thin as a Ritz cracker.

Vern's right pick whichever armor you want. ATA is a great choice. (as is any other accurate armor offered here)

I realize that the all the helmets had lowered brow lines, but they still look different somehow. I think it might be the ears. They look REALLY thinned out. This seems to give the helmets a taller appearance.

I have seen trooperbay's tips and they are about as accurate as they get. They're a gorgeous, clean casting and the screen has that slight amber/gold hue to it much like Keith's. Maybe they are Keith's?

25 MM is the standard for the rear of the thighs and shins. Don't worry about the other raised areas on either side of the partition. Just make sure your cover strip is centered.

My deepest condolences for you and your family.

Juan is right about the brow trim. It will also kind of help keep things in place so the parts don't slide around as much when lining things up. You will need to trim a bit off the bottom opening of the faceplate. You can see where the vocoder ends. When you get your ears in place, trace an even sweep from the bottom of the ear around the front and back to the other ear.