pandatrooper

Wow! Stunning build! Very nice work. Great photography too.

Just wanted to say thanks for this and congrats to all receipients and staff. Always an honor to be recognized by peers.

Very ingenious

Nice work trooper!

Rivets are used under the ears to join the face with the cap and back. Two are usually used per side. One between the ear bolts and one at the base of the ears. They are not visible as the ears cover them. I use 1/8" diameter x 1/8" long aluminum rivets with backing washers.

Congrats on your purchase. I just assembled a TMC helmet. Tip: don't use the pencil guide lines on the ears. If you do, they will be thinner and have a ROTJ look to them. Unless thats what you are going for! Good luck!

I think the median height was about 5 foot 10 inches. But obviously some were taller, some were shorter.

I use the fiber reinforced wheel or diamond wheel for cutting out the eyes from the inside (draw a pencil line for where you want to cut based on screen images). Then use sandpaper to smooth the eye openings. For the teeth, I use the drum on the back side of the teeth to take the thickness down. Then I use this Dremel bit to grind out the teeth gaps. ----------- I use this bit on high speed to cut the slots, then use low speed to round the corners. Kind of making a capsule shape like a long medicine tablet shape. Works great. I can cut the eyes and teeth start to finish in 15 mins.

The kit should come with the strips. Usually a sheet that you cut yourself (use a straight edge and an exacto knife to score straight lines and snap). Just focus on one piece. I always like to start with biceps as they are easy.

A good place to start for tutorials is in the Imperial Reception Center. Use the menu on the left. http://www.whitearmor.net/home/tutorials/armor-tutorials/helmets-home.html Arms http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=13288&st=0 Legs http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=11563&pid=145956&st=0entry145956

TK4510 made some detailed videos here: -----

I think your shins could go a little lower, they look like they're riding up / sitting too high. In regards to the thighs, I would make them fitted at the bottom and top with just a little wiggle room. A lot of people leave way too much room and the thighs are swinging around. I think you should pull the thighs up another inch or so. If you need some more mobility, you can cut some notches in the lower thigh behind the knee.

I'd leave the AP the condition it's in and buy a second "bumpy" helmet.

Nice nice. Don't forget to heat up the sides and pinch the bottom ends in, to make it less "tube shaped".

Nice work so far! You're missing your thermal detonator. Also, the mic tips look a little off. Do the have the 4 lateral lines on the sides? Are the cheek tube stripes blue or black?

You can use Enamel over lacquer, but using lacquer on top of enamel can soften it / make bubbles, etc. I used Krylon camouflage satin tan as an undercoat and it has a very tan /green look to it, very much like HPDE.

Good to hear. AM makes pretty sturdy stuff. My TK is practically bulletproof!

Closing this, as enough has been said and both parties have stated their points. This is dragging on.

If the armour arrived to you damaged, you should contact AM directly. Perhaps it was damaged in shipping?

It looks like everything has been aired out and points have been made, very publicly. I think Mark has been transparent with his intentions, and Cornelius has voiced his opinions. We're 5 days into the new year, and remember our theme - "Set for Fun". Let's move along...

My AP lid took about 3-4 months to arrive, and it wasn't during any holidays, etc.

I read in RPF he's changing hosts and something got messed up. He's fixing it. You can go about your business.

Grant McCune was a major contributor and model maker on SW: ANH. He will be missed. http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/star-wars-visual-effects-artist-66560

Yes, the corners are trimmed to be more accurate. I followed Stukatroopers measurements which are: - the distance from the last box to the end of the belt is 45mm - then measure 12mm in both directions in from corner - draw a diagonal line and trim the corners The canvas belt is 3" tall

The original screen used is glued. But I think a lot people use rivets for simplicity and durability for trooping, etc.