pandatrooper

Looking good! You probably only need a few small tweaks, and you should be able to apply for EIB too! (eg: holster belt loops)

Mine's behind the chest too, and the average person on the street always asks "where's the voice coming from, it sounds like it's coming from your helmet".

What helmet do you have? I find the screen accurate helmets have tons of clearance on the AM chest because the AM chest is actually very flat. The screen accurate chests are much rounder and smaller. It would also be good to know what your chest size / weight / height is. Perhaps you have the chest hinging forward too much? Post and pic, and I'll see if I can help.

I think the best amp for the price is Jim's Aker voice amps. They are cost effective, loud and very good quality / service. You can find them in the buy and sell section.

Or... Contact Ata and see if he has an extra right bicep to sell you.

I would split the difference. Use say a a wider than screen accurate 3/4" strip on the front, and see how big the back needs to be (another 3/4")?

Welcome back!

This is how I glue on my shoulder bridges. Probably not "screen accurate" to how they did it in the films, but hey - if no one notices and mine never fall off, I don't really care. - place the straps where I want them to (use tape / clamps to judge the position for screen accuracy and ensuring that the back end of the bridge is laying on top of the back armor shoulder extensions or "wings" -once they are in the correct position, I use a pencil and trace an outline onto the chest armor. This makes for easy placement later. - I use masking tape mask around the pencil lines on the chest, leaving the area where the bridge is to be glued exposed. - Use sandpaper to rough up the unmasked area on the chest plate - sand the underside of the bridge as well - now depending on what armor people have (different makes = different bridge thickness, etc.) I noticed that some makes are taller than others. If so, I take some scrap plastic and glue this as a shim / spacer to the underside of the bridge, under the first few ribs (approx 1".) This will make the underside of the bridge more even, so that when you clamp it to the chest for gluing, there will be full "plastic on plastic" contact between the bridge and chest. This also ensures that the bridge does not cave in under the pressure of the clamps - sand the underside of the shim / spacer after it has cured - test your alignment for the last time. I used E6000 for gluing the bridge to the shoulder armor. Since it has more working time, it allows me to also spread some Plastic Weld along the front edge and forward sides of the bridge (the little ramp area) where the bridge will contact the chest armor. This ensures very little gap between the bridge and chest. - align it quickly since the Plastic Weld evaporates fast. I usually apply a few strips of masking tape over the bridge and tape it to the chest to prevent it from wondering as the glue cures. The Plastic Weld also helps keep it in place since it cures faster. - Clamp the bridges using your spring clamps. You don't need to crush your bridges, just make sure there is good contact between the bottom of the bridge / shim and the chest armor. Let the glue cure. - Once it's cured, remove the tape and use some alcohol and a Q tip to clean off the pencil marks. - If the bridges don't curve and lie properly on the back armor, I use a heat gun to curve the straps gently. I know some people do the screen accurate thing with the white elastics too, but I'm too lazy to do that for troops, so I just bend my bridges until they line up perfect so that every time you put your chest armor on, they sit exactly where you want them to. Hope that helps!

TM makes kids armor, but it will be a bit more expensive than other makes. Perhaps another costume would be more suitable for her height?

The only thing I can see that might prevent approval. The lip area of the teeth are painted grey, and the Eib guidelines state that only the teeth should be painted (as seen in the screen used helmets). * Frown must be painted gray and not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are to be cut out. Check out the teeth on the original lids here. http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm Theres a couple other small things that look a bit inconsistent in terms of accuracy: - the brow trim looks a bit off. Looks like the backside of the trim was removed near the temples? It should just run as 1 piece frim the temple to the other temple - the belt armor corners look very over trimmed. Too much material has been removed - the drop box straps seem a little long I hope you take these points as constructive criticism. I think a certain level of detail needs to be upheld for EIB receipients.

I think it will pass fine for EIB. But if it really bugs you, it shouldn't take that long to re-glue the magazine. And if you're going to make a new rail for the scope to make it lower, just install the scope in the proper position? Personally, I like to do stuff right once (even if it means fixing or redoing something) rather than to have to take it all apart again later. I will end up procrastinating and never fixing it, so I try to do it from the get go.

Try us. what do you want to do with the chest?

Ab buttons are simply painted circles on the ab button plate. Thats how they were done in the films. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=8117&pid=146227&st=0entry146227

Try trimming any return edges on the bottom of the shins first, see if that helps. It might also help to raise the shin slightly, so that it fits around the smallest part of the boot. The only other way to fix this is to use a wider shim / cover strip at the front and back and "widen" the shins. I think TKboots might be a little narrower than your boots. Post a picture of just your boots alone with no armor on them, then we can see.

Its not required for 501st, Eib or deployment on Mepd.

Its basically the same as cut polish. Meguiars makes different grades. Go to Pep boys and ask for some. Swirl remover works but is less aggressive.

Its acceptable as is.

I think the lighting in photos has a lot to do with it. I do a wet sand with 1500 grit sandpaper, then Meguiars cut polish then some Novus polish. Heres an AP I built that I have shined Up. ---------

One more http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showforum=37

Welcome! This is a great place to start http://www.whitearmor.net/home/tutorials.html

Thanks for clarifying. I think yes - it should be acceptable as a TD replacement on the stunt. It's seen in the original film, as shown above. I don't think tons of people will rush to do this as most people still remember idealized or more commonly seen troopers. Does this open up a can of worms that I'm not considering?

I think it should be an accepted version of the stunt TK for EIB. It's clearly in the original film. But I think the current legion CRL should stand as is, and that the grappling hook be an accepted accessory (which it is). The TD can be swapped completely for a grappling hook and box. The reason for the legion standards are to create consistency and to set a detail and quality bar. But I could see it being a unique EIB variation for those that are already 501st members wanting to apply for a specific EIB look.

Yay! Congrats Pat! Nice work. I like how you "arrived for work at the Death star with your paper bag lunch".

Some people leave the front black (assuming you paint it black) and put a sticker or printout of the many scope crosshairs available. Tkdueno did a cool mod where he used a round cut out from a CD for the mirror effect. You can ad a transparent reticule by printing out the crosshair onto transparency material or add a round domed plastic gem from a craft store on top.

This guide should help you ----- I use a brush and Testors model master paints / 1130 grey. I don't use Humbrols anymore due to consistency and poor quality.