RogueTrooper

Hi all, I just wanted to honor the dedicated members that have been here on the FISD and have hit their 1000th post, in the past several months. I know it is not a very good excuse, but with new website software, some of the luxuries are not there. eg; the birthday wishes and the 1000th post. These have been somewhat overlooked in the past several months... Hopefully, we can correct this in the future..... I feel that hitting your 1000th is a milestone. Without the great members on this forum that are here helping, contributing and being a part of the white armor community, it would not be what it is today. So, I would like to thank and congratulate the following members for being a part of the FISD and what they bring to the Forum and for hitting their 1000th post and beyond. Here is to your next 1000!!!!!!!!!! Stephen (SW1) Mathias (Locitus) Rich (Rick330) Alex (TK-7980) Matt (carbonitekid) John (TK8776 jgarrettg) If I missed anyone, please let me know, and I will add you to the list of the honored.

I have seen more with the angled. I thinks it looks better and is more screen accurate.

That's the TK Spirit David!!!! :dancing-trooper: Look forward to seeing an EIB with your name on it sir!!!

OK, I just uploaded the PDFs. They are separated instead of the zip file. Hopefully they will work this time around...If not... I guess I'll try the Fonzie method of getting it to work.... For PC users: http://freepdfhostin.../3b7a5f70b8.pdf http://freepdfhostin.../b8df9cf12b.pdf http://freepdfhostin.../5c827771b9.pdf For Mac users: http://freepdfhostin.../54111955df.pdf http://freepdfhostin.../74c8ede7af.pdf http://freepdfhostin.../00cb2e203c.pdf

Can wait to see your Death Trooper, Greg...

Try this download, hopefully it will work: http://forum.whitear...&attach_id=3152

Thank you Steve for all your hard work!! Keep setting the bar high Brother!! Tom

Happy Birthday Brian!!!!!!!!!!!

Like Terry said above "Recast of AP and TE based parts."

VT is a recast. Recast should be avoided. My best advice, is to look into the vendors that are at this link: http://forum.whitear...showtopic=11538 Tom

Hey Vern, I know about that one... I was the one that originally posted on the FISD about The Prop Store of London's "ESB" E11 a few years back. About a year ago, I talked to Steve (the store owner of the Prop Store of London) He said, those U shape tracks and the scope rail was something they did to it at his store, and was never like that for ESB... Just a bad reproduction of the missing parts.

There were three different types of E11's seen in ESB. 1. The TK promo and the Luke Skywalker Hoth promo shots or Snowtrooper/IG88 style (with the greebles and solid scope rail, etc...) 2. Basic Sterling, with full muzzle, M19/M32 scope, with scope rail that attaches at the rear sight and at the first vent hole, has a D ring, bayonet lug and the 6 T-tracks. It is basically one of the variances that you might have seen in ANH. It was most commonly believed they were a left over from the first movie and re-used in ESB. But, that is a misnomer, because all the weapons were rented for the shooting of ANH and then returned, except for the DH-17 (Rebel Fleet and Imperial Navy weapon) which was a cast off of a Sterling and then modified. 3. The one that is in this photograph is the basic Sterling with the flat or shaved muzzle, M19/M32 scope, with scope rail that attaches at the rear sight and the first vent hole, has a D ring, bayonet lug and the 6 T-tracks. Have fun with your ESB E11 build Luis!

BTW, you will need to trim some off the bottom edge of the back plate so the shoulder part will lay flush. The way you have it, it is rising way off of your shoulders. Use the tutorial that I sent you earlier in the PM. It is basically what your are working on with the back. I would not trim off anything from the kidney plate. As for the butt plate, first trim the little plastic tab off, then you can do either one of two things; 1. Try trimming the top of the butt plate, by doing this, it will pull the bottom up some. or, 2. The way I did it. See below (the pic with an asterisk is a pic of an original screen used butt plate) A: The original way the AM butt plate looked. B. Using a heat gun on the butt plate. C. I slightly heated the part that goes between your legs and bent the material to contour better. D. And there you have it, a more contoured butt plate. Then I trimmed the edges and made a return edge, like the originals.

Hey Andy, You did a great job on your arms and legs. Here is what I would do for trimming the Ab and kidney. The screen used TK's did not have that much meat on the edges of the Ab plate. AM added more for the people that need it. Trim some of the meat off of the Ab plate first, then match up the kidney to the Ab plate edge. BTW, you do have the kidney plate in the right position. It has the same contour as a persons lower back.

Enough said..

Hey Martin, I just looked at your pic, and from the front view pic you with be fine. Like you said, your belt is a little bit wonky, but if you use a number 24 snap on each side to hold the belt in place you will be good to go.. As for the hue/shade of the white, none of the levels (CRL, EI, or Centurion) count against that. Also I will let the webmaster know about the problem posting pix...

"When 97 years old you reach, look as good you will not ehh." God bless you Mr. Freeborn, and thank you for all the wonderful creatures from a Galaxy far, far away....

So you raised the cost from what you stated in the video of $6.00 to now you are saying its is $7.00 including tax? Two minutes on Google and I found the same hard hats for $4.00 each, and if you bought more, you get a discount. For one thing it does not take a lot of skill nor time to cut the tabs off. Especially with a Dremel, which I saw that you have in the video. What, 5 minutes max? So $8.00 for 5 minutes worth of work, equates to $96.00 per hour. Not bad wages for a professional (someone with a degree). But, what you are doing is unskilled labor. I would probably at the max, charge someone $2.00 to cut the tabs. Purchasing a cardboard box 10" X 8" X 2" is 45 cents, if you are not using one of the free priority USPS boxes and shipping it that way. With five dollars for shipping, you have a grant total of $11.45. What you are charging is roughly is .5275 % more than what it is worth. Even if I charged $12.00 it would still be 40% less than what you are charging Great Infomercial though, Mike. In fact this is just like the rest of the infomercials that you have done on The FISD for your Ebay/TrooperBay.

WOW $15 dollars at Trooperbay for a $6 dollar hard hat?!?!?!?!?

Yeah that has been around for a while now. Here is the youtube video: There is another like it like the vid above with a bad Rubies TK:

Excellent work Nick!! I cannot wait to see more... For easier viewing, I took the liberty of editing you post and added your pix instead of the links. I hope you don't mind..For adding pix to your post, you can use the image tab and the photobucket direct link code(the image tab is just below the font size and font color tabs) or just use the IMG code from Photobucket. Just copy and paste directly IMG code into the post. BTW, is does not matter what type of paint or what hue of white that you use, just as long as it looks good... Also, are you going to paint the bottom left ear screw/bolt head? Keep up the great work!! Tom

Hey Andy, You will need the metal anvil/base, or some type of flat metal so you can get a good strike on the snaps. You can get the Snap tool at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, or A.C. Moore. Also, some fabric stores sell them as well, like Hancock. The snap tools set is in the Leather tooling area of the craft stores. They are sold separately or with the snaps. The kit below is like the kits that you can purchase from Fabric, and Hobby stores for about $10 dollars. Hobby Lobby 900 Holt Road Webster, NY 14580 (585) 872-7570 Michaels' Art and Crafts stores: 3349 Monroe Ave ROCHESTER, NY 14618-5513 (585) 381-1670 40 Square Dr VICTOR, NY 14564-1051 (585) 425-2140 500 Greece Ridge Center Dr ROCHESTER, NY 14626-2823 (585) 368-0820 300 Hylan Dr HENRIETTA, NY 14623-4216 (585) 424-3340

Congratulations to the FISD and all of the members!! Party time!!!

Hey Andy, Looks like you are making some progress on your build. The sheet of Styrene will work great for the inside backing strips/shims and the snap plates. The Plastistruct plastic weld or any plastic welds that I have used, will weld the different plastics together, but I have found that they don't hold as well, unless the plastics are of the same material, eg. ABS to ABS, HIPS to HIPS, Styrene to Styrene, etc. The plastic weld is basically an acetone based product. What it does is melts the plastics that you apply it to. Once the liquid is dissolved it fuses the two plastics together. It works well if the plastics being fused are the same type, eg, ABS to ABS. I have done test and tried HIPS to ABS and it slightly fused them together, but the fusion did not have the strength as it would have, if it had been the same material being fused. To glue the Styrene backing shims and the snap plates, you can use the E6000 or the Loctite Epoxy Heavy Duty High Strength Builders Formula, that sets in 5 minutes (UPC# 0 79340 68617 5). It is two squirt type bottles, that you mix equal amounts of Part A and Part B. You can find the Loctite at Home Depot and Lowes. The other one is the Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bonder, it works for just about any plastic and set in 20 minutes (UPC# 0 79340 68585 7). The only reason I am telling you not to use the Plastic Weld on your snaps, is because they are going to have stress on them and you need extra strength to the bond for them. The E6000 will work just fine for the whole project, but if you want you can try the Loctite products. As for doing the snaps, the pliers sometime work well and sometime don't. I have seen where the pliers kind of splits the material and the snap will not work correctly. If you use the pliers, test each one of the snaps, before gluing them into your suit. The method that I ended up doing was the hammer method with the tool that comes with the snaps. You just want to make sure that you are keeping the tool at 90 degrees, don't let it slant/angle on you. Don't focus on the actual snap itself when you are putting it into the setting tool. The snaps will always look a little off, until you start pounding the A and B parts together. As for your AP faceplate, I think you need to trim out a little bit more around the eyes, not much (see pic below). As for your teeth, I think they are fine, don't take anymore meat off of them. I have seen a lot of people take off too much meat off the teeth and they lose their 3-D effect they should have to them. What I love about the ANH frown (I've coined the shark grin) the teeth are not straight or perfect and I think that is what makes them look so mean. Here are a couple of links for some collages that I made of original ANH eyes and frowns that will help you out with this. ANH Stunt and Hero eye reference: http://forum.whitear...showtopic=16277 ANH Stunt and Hero frown/teeth reference: http://forum.whitear...showtopic=16270