RogueTrooper

Paul, thank you for your 5 years as DL. Without you, the the face of the TK, would be very different. Thank you for building and your dedication to the FISD. To Paul!!!!!! :salute: :salute: Now go have fun man!!!

:dancing-trooper: CONGRATS MASON!!!!!!!!!!! :dancing-trooper: To Paul, thank you for your 5 years as DL. Without you at the helm, the FISD would not be where it is. I think you can take a breather and know that the reins are in good hands. To Paul and Mason, two guys who have done a lot for the White Armor forum...Salute

Looking good man.

I use extreme racing: ----------- Very nice, and stays snug. Manufactured using extreme racing cotton & lycra blended fabric for enhanced moisture management and thermal protection. Our fabric reacts to all kinds of different conditions, from excessive heat to extreme cold. In warm weather, perspiration is removed from the skin surface keeping the wearer cool, conversely in cold conditions the natural thermal properties of the fabric allow heat to be retained. Should excess heat occur, the fabric disperses it in the usual manner. Two way zip for easy toilet trips! Pic of it: ----------

I felt that way as well...

FUTK ........ hey, forget about it. I was thinking of "UTK" for "Unleashed TK" and not use "The Force" part of the title.

My bad, too many late night copy and pasting and not enough caffeine I just looked at the the Incinerator and the TKC requirements on the Legion side. The Incinerator does state: *Two rivets shall be present on each side of the kidney plate, approximately 4mm from the inside edge of the U shaped gasket or molded lip that is adjacent to the ab plate. There will be one rivet near the top and one near the bottom on each side. They may be painted white, or not. But somehow I jump over that with the TKC when posting it. Like I said too many late night copy and pasting when working on all the TK CRLs. BTW, I have corrected it in the TKC and added to the Phase 3 requirements above. Plus added this to the proposed Thigh requirement above as well: *The ammo belt should be installed higher then typical on the bottom of the right thigh (as seen in the game).

The fifth line in the requirement states: *Ears shall have a black horizontal anchor-like detail on each side of the ear bar. BTW, it is the same in the TKC.

Here is the proposed requirements for the Phase III Stormtrooper from TFU. Basiclly it's the same as the TKC but without the blue detail. Helmet *Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. *Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. *Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. *The “ear†bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional. *Ears shall have a black horizontal anchor-like detail on each side of the ear bar. *Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out. *Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. *Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. *Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black. *Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted. *Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. *Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements. *Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Please visit FISD/whitearmor.net for more info on these modifications. *Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. *Ear bars should have four bumps only, not three. *Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details *Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. *FX helmets are not allowed. *Helmet and details/paint should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). *MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed. *ANHv2 helmets are not allowed. *Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes). *Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. *Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). Neck Seal *Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple. Shoulder Straps *These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. *No visible rivets are allowed. *Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%. *Shoulder straps should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). *These shall be affixed in the front (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible). *These shall be affixed in the back (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible). Shoulder Bells *One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. *Shoulder bells are rounded at the corners. *No shoulder bell straps across the biceps. *Shoulder bells should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Biceps *Biceps are fully closed. *No shoulder bell straps across the biceps. *Biceps should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Forearms *Forearms are fully closed. *Forearms should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). *No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Hand Plates *Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. *Hand plates should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). *Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards. Gloves *Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. *Gloves shall be rubber or rubber like chemical gloves in black. Chest *Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. *A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges, bottom, both sides and neck area. *Chest should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). *Fabric or elastic strip connecting chest to back shall be either black or not present. *Ideally the AM/FX style chest plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style chest plate, it shall be trimmed at the bottom and sides to eliminate the over elongated appearance and to give a more accurate look (Note: Return edge is not required but shall have the rubber gasket). Back *Back plate contains a "O II" design. *A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges, bottom, both sides and neck area. The Back plate should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). *Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. *Ideally the AM/FX style back plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style back plate it shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate and shall be reshaped to emulate a screen used back plate by properly trimming and re-shaping (stretching) the left and right edges of the armor to contour to your body. (Note:Return edge is not required but shall have the rubber gasket). Note: There is currently no tutorial available for this, but you can see an example of this Mod and visual comparison at whitearmor.net Under Suit *Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. Abdomen Plate *The ab plate shall be all black. Buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter. *A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. *Ab plate button detail shall be inverted compared to ANH/ESB. *Ab plate should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). *There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate. *Left vertical row of ab plate buttons should contain five buttons. All buttons shall be of the same size and color and shall be visible (not covered by the belt). The fifth button shall be mounted vertically above the standard four buttons Kidney & Butt Plate *It is allowable to have a separate kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it shall line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate.If a separate butt plate is used, it should be below the bottom of belt and line up with the kidney plate, with minimal gap between it and the kidney plate. *The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps. *A separate kidney/butt plate is not allowed - the kidney and butt plate shall be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece. *A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. *The edges of the hip area should be rounded/curved (not like the straight lines found on the ANH/ESB butt plate). *Kidney/Butt plate should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). *Two rivets shall be present on each side of the kidney plate, approximately 4mm from the inside edge of the U shaped gasket or molded lip that is adjacent to the ab plate. There will be one rivet near the top and one near the bottom on each side. They may be painted white, or not. *There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab. Belt *Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). *Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 2.25†to 3.5†wide. The color is be white to off-white. *The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. *Belt shall be a tightly woven nylon/cordura style material, or may be canvas or canvas covered, and the color is be white to off-white. The belt material should be lightly aged,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Leather and vinyl are not acceptable. *Belt shall be between 2.25" and 2.5" wide, not 3" as in ANH/ESB. *There shall be two square buttons, one on each end of the plastic ammo belt. The center square button is not allowed. *Belt face(TK ammo belt)and drop boxes should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). *The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle. *Drop boxes are closed in the back. *The belt proper shall have (eight total) white rivets. Two rivets close to each side of the thermal detonator, and two rivets approximately an inch away from the edge of the ammo belt (The rivets should form a rectangular pattern). Thermal Detonator *(a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2" and 2.5" in diameter with white end caps and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap. *The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and shall be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint. *The thermal detonator should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). *The thermal detonator control panel shall have correct ROTJ details, or the "game style" version. The ANH/ESB style is not allowed. Thighs *Thigh armor shall be closed in the back. *The ammo belt shall be installed on the bottom of the right thigh. *Thighs should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). *The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets are not acceptable. *The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. *The ammo belt should be installed higher then typical on the bottom of the right thigh (as seen in the game). Lower Legs *Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave. *The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net *Greaves should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD) Boots *White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. *There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed). *Boots shall be lightly scuffed. Holster *Made of black leather or leather-like material. *Holster maybe omitted. *Holster shall be worn on the left and be attached to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt. *The holster shall be affixed with four fasteners (two at the top and two at the bottom of the belt) instead of none or two. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws. BlasTech E-11 (ESB style) *Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. *Folding stock (does not need to function). *No ammo counter shall be present. *D-ring mounted on the rear. *Correct style scope. *No power cylinders on the magazine housing. *Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest *row on the magazine housing side uncovered). *If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you *want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place. BlasTech E-11 (ROTJ Style) *Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. *Folding stock (does not need to function). *No ammo counter shall be present. *D-ring mounted on the rear. *Correct style scope. *No power cylinders on the magazine housing. *Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 7 U shaped channels on blaster (all holes *on barrel shall be covered). *If using the popular commercially available Stormtrooper blasters, you shall grind off the T-tracks and replace them with U shaped channels and cover the open rows of holes (total of 7 U shaped channels in all). *Correct greeblies on the left rear area shall be present (door catch and two "hammers"). *Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions. *Forward D-ring shall be mounted underneath the front sight on the left side of the barrel. *Use of the correct front sight (which differs from ANH and ESB). *The scope rail is unique to ROTJ E11 and is not like the normal open ANH/ESB scope rails, but is a solid, one piece, with a unique sight design on the front. The scope connects to the notched out area of the solid rail. The scope shall be the correct design (as the ones seen in ROTJ), and shall attach to the scope rail via one scope mount. *The muzzle will be unlike the normal ANH style. It shall be flat with two counter sunk Allen bolts (one located at the four o’clock position and one located at the ten ‘o’clock position). *The door catch shall be correct, not a "close enough" attempt as seen on the Cinemastery blaster. BlasTech SE-14R *The SE-14R blaster may be carried. It shall have a correct scope if carried in lieu of the E-11 for informal events Lightsaber (The Force Unleashed) *The hilt should be Graflex style or have the characteristics of the Graflex, (reference Luke Skywalker's lightsaber from ANH and ESB). If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow. Note: Double blades, small Yoda style lightsaber, or inexpensive non-FX Hasbro Lightsaber toys are not allowed. *The hilt shall be made to reference Starkiller's lightsaber (as seen in The Force Unleashed). If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow.

Some of the pix of ANH like the pic of the TK lids/un-cut armor in front of AA shop is a B&W pic with shadows and you can't totally see the flashing in that pic. I wish they had HD cameras back then.... Jimmy if you look at the pix of ANH helmets from SWH.com you will see there are all different ways the flashing was trimmed. So you cannot say they everyone should be doing this for the ANH lid.. From what I have read books and mags and seen in SW docs. They where flying be the seat of their pants on the first movie with about everything, and just get it done no matter what. But when it can time for ESB they may have taken the time to make sure things where more consistent.

+ 1 But without a time machine, we will never know exactly what they did. I assume they tried to find the best looking helmets to re-use in ESB no matter if they had more flashing around the eyes (if they had many to choose from). But how about this, when they started re-doing the helmets (paint, decals, etc) they realized the eyes were not uniformed so, may be they re-trimmed the ones that needed to be trimmed to make them all more consistent with each other in EPV. . :smiley-sw013: :smiley-sw013: :smiley-sw013:

Hey Mindy, First try trimming the return edges off to your forearms and see if that helps the feel before trimming the length. The original stormtroopers forearms did not have a return edge to them at the wrist and inner elbow, and very little to the outer part of the elbow. See the screen grabs and pix from the LFL archive of original TK armor: Also if you need to, like they did for Mark Hamill, trim out a little more of the inner part of where the elbow bends. If you still need more then do a little at a time. Also have your biceps on as well so you can see how much mobility you have before doing a lot of trimming.

It looks to be in the eye of the beholder. ANH to me looks to have hit or miss when it comes to trimming of the eyes. But, if you look at the ANH eye reference pix that I posted (please see link) you can see a lot of material in some of the eye socket compared to most of the screen grabs from ESB. ANH eye reference link: http://forum.whitear...showtopic=16277 Some ESB: ESB promo: I feel that the ESB eyes are more consistent with the more open looking eye sockets. Which I feel is a consistent trait to the version of the ESB TK, just like the U-trim is to the ROTJ armor.

You can tell Mina going to be Dad's little girl... Congratulations to you and your wife on your new little clone.

Great Newsletter! Congrats Eric on TOTM!!!

The E11 is a reverse of the ROTJ...

That's cool... Just like the Cake boss TV show...But it looks like there is a lot of Rice Krispy treats to made it. But, that's happens when you do a theme cake.....A round 600 people got a piece of cake... I wonder how many got cake, and how many got Rice Krispy treats?

Great work Lucas!!! BTW, are you making all the parts from scratch, or are you going to be using other parts eg: real Sterling SMG parts or from any other kits?

Glue the thighs shut and then you slip them on like shorts.

For now there are very few ROTJ troopers in the 501st (under 20) and none have made it to Centurion and only a few EI. When I worked on all the CRLs (reprising them), I felt that the standards (Centurion level) should be held for the ROTJ like it is for the the ANH and ESB. Maybe in the future the standards will raise (I have a few in mind that I would like to see added to them) and we will be putting them out there for a vote. It is harder to start something and have to go back and find away to fix it, especially after you have several of them out there mis-representing the standards. CFO's TD would be considered for the ROTJ Centurion. I am sure CFO would sell the TD separately if someone was just wanting to change out certain parts. There is a saying, "Necessity is the father of invention". If you want to go to Centurion level, you will find a way to make it. Basic requirements are a must to be able to join the 501st and to troop, but the EI and Centurion levels are an added incentive to raise the levels and are there to encourage a higher standard. So, when we set a certain standard (in the two higher levels), this doesn't mean that you have to go to those levels, unless you want to. We do encourage you to seek the higher levels, but that is up to you. Tom

Sean since you are wanting a TD for your TKC, We (the Staff) do allow you to make one like the "game version" and more than likely be the Centurion standard. Mason made one up for the alternative (Please the pix below). I thing it will be an easy way to go and closer to what you see in the games. Mason's TKC Game version TD: Game pix:

In ROTJ most of the TK did not have a TD... But the few that did, the design of the rib pattern was more centered and the washer was larger than the ANH/ESB .. (see below) BTW I have not seen anyone make or reproduce the ROTJ TD correctly yet... More armor makers make the ANH/ESB style that is why I you see used in the CRLs.

I just under lapped the integrated cover strip that was on the back of the AM shins ( this gave me a little bit more area for the velcro). or you could try this.. butt joint the back parts of the shins. Then add a strip to the inside of the back of the shin ( like a the cover strip but in reverse) . Make the inside strip larger (about 30mm wide) This should give you plenty of area for the industrial velcro.. See the new orange section of my diagram: