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XTC30 Is a great product for this. Make sure you apply small coats cause the curing time is quick. Here is my stock that I painted and use weathering to get that Bakelite finish. The paints I used was gloss black and dark walnut. I also put a speaker in the stock for blaster effects. This is before I applied the dry brush black, Just be careful. With all of the using it as a prop, you will wear the paint off of the bottom of the stock and have to repaint it.

My favorite voice changer is the TKTalkie. I wear it inside my armor in a chest rig I got on Amazon with a battery pack and portable speaker. It can modify your voice and add all the clicks and pops when you speak. It also plays a radio chatter loop. If you can solder, you can make it yourself and it's pretty inexpensive.

2. Angie Popovski, @Stardust665 - TK-87665 - RS Prop Masters ESB TK - EIB #1079 - 2pts - Replaced broken knee plate - Replaced helmet lenses - Reworked Chest and Abdomen armor strapping - Repainted buttons on the Ab plate @Stardust665 - Please certify that I served as your Armorer and have spent at least 30 minutes providing hands-on help modifying/repairing your armor for your submission that subsequently was awarded Expert Infantry status, as above. Thank you!

Your updates are looking great. I do like seeing the bakelite stock Nice work you have to be happy with the finished product. For anyone following, bakelite references

Update #02 - Weathering and detailed photos Weathering was done like on my other blasters: Humbrol 27004 polish paint, then some silver dry-brush effects, dust weathering and real rust in selected spots. The blaster‘s back end was initially planned to be gloss back, but I simply did not find a way to weather a believable bakelite appearance. So I decided to go for a wooden appearance and covered most of the black paint with acrylic brown paint (brushed) and sealed everything under matte clear coat. And here is how it looks: Metal pipes inside have a snug fit and support the blaster over the full length. No bending or so. The handle can be stored inside the magazine cover and everything fits into the improvised transport box. Build facts: Total build time (including research and ordering stuff) lasted over half a year. Total build costs (including kit, new T-tracks, accessories and paint) is about 250 Euros. Total weight is only 1,4 kg (a full resin E-11 is around 1,1 - 1,2 kg) Is it complete now? Yes, I don‘t have plans for any additions like electronics or so. Is it perfect? No, by far not. It‘s just what I was able to get out of this individual kit. Would I do it again? Considering the effort to clean all print lines, I would say no. On the other hand, now knowing how to treat a 3D print would speed up work...

There are a lot of options out there as I posted previously, everyone has their own choice, I've been trooping with my Icomm and Aker amp for 12 years and converted to an exterior battery and it has not missed a beat. There are now amps out there that also include MP3 players so you can have background sounds playing as well as talking. I also use the other plug on the amp to run to props, blaster, lazer axe, baton etc etc, all can be played at the same time.

Congratulations, Colin!!!

Thank you 😊 It sounds a bit worse than it is. Like my friend said, it’s good behavior therapy. I also have a bunch of things on my first suit I “messed up” and as you say it’s only me seeing them. I always judge myself the hardest and just need some time to mentally work it through 😅 I’m slowly starting to like it more and more and by the time I’m done I’ll be both proud of it and love it. Regarding the template mine was not from Trooperbay. And guessing it’s a lot of things that matter if it works or not. Placement, material on the masking template, what kind of paint, brush. I just felt that without the template I was more in control over the result. It’s like I said though, my personal opinion. There is probably a lot of ways and combinations doing the lines depending of what feels the best for you. And in the end that’s what matters. Big thanks for your kind and uplifting words regarding my build. It’s good to hear other opinions than your own to help me not to over analyze things that as you say (and I know deep within 😅🙈) probably only I will see the most 😊

Update #10 - ‘with some modifications’ Thought about placing some kind of control panel below the drawers. Should be easy to make from wood with some knobs and greeblies. Then I got an old tablet in hands and things went a bit crazy. Sorry, had missed to take photos of some steps. Now what to do with that thing? Would be cool to have some Star Wars footage, looking like coming from Death Star security cameras or so. Hm, maybe that already exists?! On Youtube I indeed found a suitable clip. So I contacted the owner and asked for permission to use it. As chance had it, this was made by FISD member Daniel @SKUTCH and he agreed. Thanks again, Daniel. He looped a 3.5 mins sequence to a 25 mins clip. I chopped it down to 2.5 mins with no audio and transferred it to the tablet, where it can run in an endless loop. Wondering how it looks like? You got to wait a moment. Then it was time to fill that cabinet with everything I had gathered over the years plus the blasters, all decoration and stuff. I started at the bottom because some things are just stacked on top of each other. Ever since finding those device covers, I dreamed of how cool it would be to have the red and white lights blinking, like seen on many background props in the movies. Unfortunately I wasn‘t able to do that but luckily there is Dave @Cody42 in my Squad. He had offered to build custom-made circuit boards to fit behind the covers. It took some time, phone calls, measurements and bucks but he went all out and designed the following: Having no AC power outlet nearby the cabinet, he ingeniously made the circuit boards to work at 5V DC via Mini-USB port. That means they can be operated with a standard power bank. It is also possible to switch through various light modes, adjust the brightness and the interval time. And whatever you select remains stored in the memory, even when the power source gets disconnected. https://youtu.be/x7fIisnKrJM In the video you can see two temporary push buttons. These are required for configuration. For the final setup Dave had simply planned with my black switches, which were already present in both panels. Dave, I cannot thank you enough for this awesome work. Even after a few years now, everything is still working fine. And that‘s it. Project finally completed. The cabinet is completely filled with goodies and electronics. The 'surveillance' video looks very cool and the lamps change every 10 secs. As photos don‘t work well to show the final result, I simply filmed the cabinet from top to bottom. Enjoy.