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Update time. Whilst I finished about a year ago I never added the mount plate as I had a plan. Well I have actually completed that plan! Shocking I know. I'll start at the end and show how I got there, please excuse the wrong screws I need to get some M5 Security Torx as I don't apparently have any. The plate is actually 2 plates, or more accurately PCBs. Yes PCBs for making electronics. Aluminium PCBs are now a thing, and come in the perfect thickness (1mm in this case) and most importantly are pretty cheap. These cost around £9 plus shipping for enough to make 5. They are designed in KiCad to fit the horseman TFA blaster, I assume the TLJ is the same but I've not made one yet to confirm. They arrive as 2 plates, a front and a rear. The front side of each is a brushed aluminium, the back is a white PCB solder mask, with black silkscreen and hidden message in the copper layer (for the first order in besh). Also a logo because why not. I then use a 3D printed jig to CA glue them together to make the final plate. This is a little fiddly but only takes a few minutes, and a drill to drive the screws speeds things up. The result is pretty stiff, the individual parts less so. Next is mounting them. Problem is the horseman files have no pre located holes for the screws, which I pre added to the plates to fit the @R2Dan holster. The solution to this is more 3d printing. I created a jig that locates where the plate fits and allows me to drill the holes perfectly. Step one is to secure the jig. I use the "super glue and masking tape trick". Essentially you are about to make some low tack double sided tape. Apply a strip of low tack masking tape to the blaster And to the bottom of the jig and trim the excess Apply a few dabs of CA glue to the bottom of the jig and hold in place until secure. You can use accelerator if that's your thing, I didn't as I want to worry what the spray might do to the paint. We're using an M5 bolt, so the correct size hole is 4mm, well 4.2mm but close enough for what we are doing. Ensure you mark the depth so you don't get carried away. I allowed for a depth of around 12mm which should give enough meat for a secure mount. Drilling out holes in 3D prints cuts into the infill. This now leaves you with a really terrible screw interface, and it will probably rip right out. So to make this significantly stronger we're going to fill the hole we just drilled with 5 minute epoxy and leave it overnight. Apply some more masking tape, trim the holes and fill with epoxy. You might want a tooth pick to help poke it in and let the air out. It will need more then you expected as it spreads out into the print and fills the cavities in the infill. Try not to get any on the blaster, if you did like me: it's now weathering. Though in all seriousness no one will notice, as it cures very clear but just try be tidy as you will know it's there and it will haunt you. Once cured, setup you drilling jig and do it all again. You now have 2 4mm holes in epoxy not 3D printed infill. Hooray. Now if you're bored, glue on the pate screw in the bolts and call it good. If you're extra like me, continue. We have a 4mm hole, not an M5 hole and that will not do. So now print a 2nd jig, identical to the first, but with a 5mm hole in it. Mount this and use an M5 tap to cut a perfect M5 thread. The epoxy cuts well, especially if you leave it a few days to fully cure whilst the tap arrives from eBay. You don't need anything fancy, £4.88 on eBay plus a tap handle if you haven't got one. We're not cutting steel here. Do not be tempted to use a drill to drive the tap. Anger leads to hate. Hate leads to suffering... Preferably don't drop the tap and scratch your paint, allegedly. Use some white paint to touch up the alleged paint chip. For extra points apply a light countersink to the hole. Though you probably should do this before tapping. I am not a machinist, I won't judge. Glue the plate on and screw in the screws. And you are done! How accurate is this method? Perfectly accurate... and they are perfectly straight too.

Centurion is on the way for the ECG! Yeah and thanks for the help along the way

Congratulations trooper and welcome to Expert Infantry and the EI Honor Gallery

Thanks guys! In getting this far, it’s easy to get caught up in what needs to be done next, but I have to say that it’s a special feeling to see things coming together like in the photo from my previous post. I grew up in Los Angeles, and as a little kid was one of the fortunate ones to wait in a line circling the entire block at Mann’s Chinese Theater to see ANH. I must have seen it maybe 40 or 50 times in the theater! My dream from then on was to be a stormtrooper, and that’s why I’m here! So, yes, I’m definitely motivated! You all have been fantastic! I did a loose fit of the TD, and it definitely sticks out of the bottom of the belt: Time to trim that, and get the clips straightened out a bit too. Looking at the shoulder strapping, I think they are overall too long. Maybe that’s my real problem. I cinched them up, and it looks like the straps might go over better. So I’ll redo the straps, approximately 1” to 1.25” shorter than they are, and see whether it’s good. I’ll be sure to have the water bath ready. Then I can get those ¼” elastics over the backs. For holding up the thighs, I like the idea of having them separately supported rather than putting yet more weight on the torso, which to me seems a bit heavy already. So I’ll opt for the leather belt and 2” wide elastic loops. For the ABS paste, I saw a post about Sugru that looks like it would fit the bill. For the cod, I trimmed the split rivet down, drilled a 9/64” hole, and got that in with a bit of hammering. It seems like what snap goes on the inside doesn’t matter, since it’s not required to be functional, and I’ve seen comments about either using the female line 24, or the male “Levi’s-type” small stud, or what I did here, the line 24 male. From the hammering I might have left a small mark on the outer part of the cod, but not too noticeable. For the two butt snaps, I drilled two 5/32” holes. One was ⅝” in from the end, and the other 1-⅜” in, per ukswrath’s build here: I’ll want to be careful about setting those in! Not done yet. Oh yeah, and time for The Acolyte!!!!!

Thanks so much @Doggydoc for the whole EIB process and especially for the Centurion critiques. It's something I definitely want to do and I'll start planning on the changes right away. This has been so much fun fleshing out all the details and learning so much more about this hobby

Hi John, great job on making the requested fixes. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Your helmet is sitting a bit too high. By removing some of the padding on top of your head, it will bring the helmet closer to your shoulders, giving you a better overall appearance and will usually give you improved sight as well. Reference Images Along the same lines, for a better overall look, you could bring your forearms down slightly to make the gaps at the wrists and elbows the same. Alternatively, you could bring the biceps up to increase the gap at the elbow so it matches the wrist. Reference Images *************************************************** Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Your belt needs to come up slightly. This may be achieved by using a bit of Velcro between the canvas and the abdomen armour CRL L3: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels Reference Images Also with respect to the belt, Your drop boxes should align with the edge of the ABS belt. You can secure them in place with a drop of E6000. On the back of your belt, the Velcro is showing on the right side of the thermal detonator. For Centurion, you will need to trim back the excess so it doesn't show. We consider this to be a "patch" as per the CRL CRL L3: Canvas belt can not contain patches of any sort. Reference Images CRL L3: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Reference Images Your shoulder straps will need to have a small piece of elastic added to hold them down in the back. Although not required, removing the large tab in the back will give a better overall look. CRL L3: The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. Reference Images For your shoulder position, the left shoulder should sit a bit closer to the shoulder strap. This may just be a dressing issue or you may need to adjust the snap / elastic placement. CRL L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. Reference Images You will need to trim all of the return edge from your forearms. CRL L3: No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Reference Images Your hand plates will need to be changed to latex or a latex like material for Centurion approval. CRL L3: Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, solid white or painted white, and affixed to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching Reference Images Your Abdomen Armour will need to have the rivets installed as you have already mentioned. Here is a guideline for their placement. CRL L3: Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor. Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. The heads are rounded or domed. Note: Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Rivets are painted white. Reference Images Similarly, as you already mentioned, you will need to add the "Han Snap" on the right side of the abdomen CRL L3: A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present. Reference Images Your Ab plate detail could also use a little trimming - hopefully this was applied with E600 and not CA glue. Although the smaller one meets CRL requirements, a slight trim will make it look more screen acurate. CRL L3: Plate does not overlap the edges of this area and shall show a definite straight cut edge around all sides Reference Images Your ab and kidney plates are offset at the top slightly. Your Left side looks okay, your right ab plate is sitting a bit high however. This is likely just a dressing issue but may require some strapping adjustments . CRL L3: Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top Reference Images As with the ab armour, the kidney armour will need rivets on the left side as well. CRL L3: Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the kidney plate. Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. The heads are rounded or domed. Note: Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Rivets are painted white. Reference Images For Centurion, the gaps in the back of the lower portion of the thigh need to be filled. This may be done with ABS paste or Sugru CRL L3: Lower thigh ridge joins (front and rear) shall butt-up flush against each other. Any gaps must be backed with ABS or filled as not to be noticeable. Reference Images

Love the 3D jig idea, and the blaster looks great.

Added Praetorian Blasters - Rubber Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1742840523/e-11-blaster-classic-version-rubber

A nice upgrade

I can confirm that Justin helped me with my Anovos TK, made sure everything looked good and took my submission photos for Basic approval ?.

Basic confirmed for @stormztrooper1 +1 and @Crow2xs +1 New total: 15

I can confirm that Justin helped me with my Anovos ANH-S TK and took my submission photos for the Anovos ANH-S TK - Basic Approval.

I certify that you have helped me with my TK a few times and helped me get approved after they sent it back with stuff to fix. He's a gentlemen and a scholar and he's Mr. TK

Congratulations John! You have done an amazing job! Very exciting to bring another EIB trooper to the ECG!

Congratulations Trooper, welcome to EIB ranks.

Nice work. A couple of things if you look at aiming for higher levels, the T-tracks and grips were gloss black on-screen blasters so would not have any weathering, also there are a few places you can see some print lines: L2 Expert Infantry 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.

I've finished building my E11 blaster rifle - painted and weathered (to the best of my ability at least!) pics for inspection: does this all look ok for trooping?

There is no single answer as “white” plastic can be any manner of shades of white. The temperature of white plastic varies by maker, and sometimes even by batch that a maker produces. You might try buying some smaller cans of white to test out and compare. Alternately, bring in some scrap abs plastic to an automotive paint shop and have them produce a color match. Or just paint all your armor, both black and white, with your white paint. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work!

Congratulations #1075

Yes

Congrats sir, and welcome to EI! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks again. Just to make sure I should list you (Gerald) as the DO correct?

No problem at all John. Congratulations again. Make sure to request your EIB certificate. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40769-request-your-eib-certificate-here/