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Done for now, now I need to cut the excess. Attached the two boxes on the left shin. Glazed and final sanded after this photo (thought I took photo) Cutting out the ab boxes Fit and finish is great, still need to sand flush but so far so good Now I need to glue (using the same as @ukswrath from his FOTK build), smells but a quick setup - 45 minutes for maximum adhesion. The AB has a curvature, if I just put a reinforcing strip behind it I am concerned that this will be pulled towards the body. If I need to keep the curvature, I will need to hot water shape the strip.

Front/Top greeb This was another part where I was not too happy with the design as it came (2). It did have the round bit on the right side with the 5 holes, but it was a bit too short, had the small bar in the center and lacked the small arc on the bottom of the front, so I ended up making one from scratch (3). Side note: This is the first SW weapon I have ever seen where they used phillips-head screws (1). 1 2 3

Congratulations Trooper ! You may want to check our Advanced Tactics Program (EIB and Centurion Level)

Baby steps. Unfortunately, work is getting in the way, so I only have time for a few small things. Fire adjustment rotating switch has been glued into the pistol grip. I had to sand and carve a square groove for the switch to fit into. The MG34 fire selector will be glued on top of this to blend it in. Hopefully it will then look and work like a real gun selector to go from stun, to semi, to auto fire. Vibrating "rumble" button glued into the grip. I had to re-solder and tape the connectors as...you guessed it... the wires snapped! The wires just up and to the left of this button go to the trigger actuator, Bad picture of the trigger micro switch. It is to the far left inside grip. It was hard getting this situated so it will be activated when pulling the trigger.

Hi Shayan, Welcome to FISD and glad to read you're on your way of becoming an imperial Stormtrooper ! About your questions, what I can suggest and help. Considering the lineage of the RS armor, I feel like it would be worth a shot and build this to Level 3 specs. Do you think this is a reasonable thing to seek out for a first timer (on armor)? Definitely YES , it's better to aim for L3 from the start. We are here to help you . I'm handy with a dremel and such, but I am worried about certain stepping stones just making it impractical for a first try. - RS have a series of armor build tutorials on YouTube. Would these be adequate when aiming for a Level 3 build? All resources are good, you can learn from everything on hand (videos, Building threads here and direct tips from others also here) I would recommend to check this useful index of resources HERE and especially when aiming for L3 check the GALLERY SECTION and ask every questions before CUT or GLUE to receive feedback - Can internal parts of the costume be changed and a Lvl 3 spec still achieved? I'm thinking of for example adding white velcro inside the calves instead of the hook system, as it seems sturdier to me. Yes , some internal changes are allowed and still achieve Level 3 , Check and ask first to be sure. Once your kit arrives, I strongly recommend to open a Building Thread HERE , post tons of photos to ensure you will receive better help, feedback and tips to accomplish your goal. Good luck and looking forward for your BBB day photos!

Just read your whole build thread. Congratulations on basic trooper!!! I think you can get EIB easily.

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

Hello and welcome aboard, normally posting a build thread in this are is a great way to receive feedback https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ Some of the original helmets did have gaps but personally I would try to reduce the gaps a little more, it's all about fine tuning, also adding a step cut out to the top of the ears can help, here are a couple of great threads that may be of help.

Hello Shayan, welcome to FISD As Mario said, the best way is to see a lot of videos and read a lot of posts... You can also ask for help from members of your Garrison who will be happy to help you with your armor (although with the covid, this may be more complicated). And you can also open your own WIP, where we can help you on your way to Centurion level !!! ESB WIP THREADS. Remember that you can contact the entire DO Team whenever you want @Deployment Officer Team...We never sleep (sometimes we close our eyes, but we are listening!!!). Good luck!!!

Done! Thank you for reminding me… knew I’d forgotten to do something

Keeping fingers crossed, Steve. I hope this works...

Hammers These caused me the most trouble. The ones that came with the kit were the right size, but the design was off (top photo). So, time to start from scratch. After 3 tries I finally got it as close as I could (middle photo) to the reference image (bottom photo). Perfect? Nope. Close? I think so. I made a mold and cast them in resin so they would match.

Update: I had to de-solder the wire connections for the scope display, main display, and laser in order to feed the wires through their respective holes. My soldering skills aren't the best, but I managed. Once done, all the components were re-attached and tested. I then found out my speaker wasn't working. A quick check revealed that the wire connection had snapped....yet again... for like the tenth time.... I have mentioned it before that the BlastFX kits are amazing, but I have had a bugger of a time with wire connections snapping from simply manipulating components around the blaster. This is understandable as the wires are very tiny due to the components used, but none-the less very frustrating. When it comes time to install everything and glue the bits-and-bobs on, I will probably use E6000 instead of superglue. That way I can probably pry off stuff to get to wires if needed. In this picture you can see the red/black wire extensions with connectors that I made that go the muzzle lighting effects. This was so I could take the blaster apart into two main parts: Barrel and Receiver, for transport. I really want this to fit in my TK transport case lid so I don't have to lug around a big rifle case and get stared at suspiciously... I'll have to see if this is still feasible as the barrel is very hard to slide into the receiver, and as this is simply printed plastic I don't want things cracking over time. You can also see the battery (yellow) and at the far left, the white rectangle is the bottom ejection port cover plate and will hold the on/off switch plus the 3 mode fire selector button. (Single shot, rapid shot, stun). I will still be using the kit supplied rotary fire switch that is part of the pistol grip and replicates the MG34 selector. However, if this craps out, I have an alternate mode. Everything is now fed through the holes, and I am GENTLY starting to re-assemble the blaster. In earlier posts, you see how I cut out the barrel near the receiver in order for more light from the LED string to show through. After looking online I saw a video made by 3D Props (maker of my DLT) showing the lights more toward the muzzle. It looks great! Also, the spacing of the T-Tracks at the muzzle gives more hole openings. I'm not sure how he is accomplishing this with the metal support "barrel" than runs through the barrel jacket. There is no room between the barrel and barrel jacket for the LED strip. Hmmm.....? I was considering moving mine towards the muzzle, but I would have to extend the wires, an possibly drill barrel holes again, which is a pain. I'll just have the lights at the receiver and worry about it at another time. I've also painted the new printed components, and have to wire in the On/off slider switch for the power.