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Welcome Jeff! You're on an exciting journey. My first 501st costume was assembling a TK ANH Stunt kit from AP, and I had a blast. Mark from AP is very helpful, so always reach out to him. I also found a wealth of support from everyone on the forum here - there is no end to the experience here! My advice (echoed to me by many, many others here) is, take your time. Whether it takes months or years, build the armour you want the first time. Good luck and have fun! Sent from my Imperial Comlink

Brilliant, thanks

Fantastic Thanks for information Adam

I also trimmed down my shoulder bells. I am going to trim out the rest of that return edge in red. Thanks, M

I should be installing everything. After seeing the scope display without the magnifying lens I see now that it still looks cool, and would simplify the install somewhat. I may get away with cutting a small square window for the scope display and mount it about 1/2" inside the box body. As you'll see in the pics below, you need the lens about 1/2" to 3/4 away from the display for best image. I'll have to see if this works with the display inside a rectangular cutout. I just jury rigged a power source by stealing a battery cartridge (holds 3 AAA batt's) out of a cheap flashlight. The scope display is actually 1/2" by 1/2 ", not 1/4 like I stated earlier. Main display is 1/2" by 1.5". Jury rigged power: Scope display: The wires point out the back, so they had to sit on top of the box. Now that I look at it, it's not bad without the magnifying lens. There are several different display types. This is a simple dial spinning around, with little bars on the side that jump around. This is with clear magnifying lens only. The lens is held about 1/2" in front of display. Closer to display and there is no magnification, further away it becomes distorted. If this is mounted in a scope (like an E11, which I also have a kit for...) then you would need to mount the display in the scope probably 1/2 to 3/4" away from the lens. Same, but with lens and an evil red filter! I'm sure if you want the cool red color you could find some clear red acetate sheet and cut to size? Both displays. The shot counter does not have a red filter but you can use same red acetate sheet if you wanted. It's personal choice what look you're going for: Both white, both red, or variations of red and white for an interesting contrast. There are also several different visual effects / options for the main display. I also have my TK # in the bottom right of the display window. Great! Now I'm itching to finish this beast! It's been dragging on for over 2 years.

Looking forward to seeing your build progress. When in doubt ask, also measure twice and cut once You also have the gallery sections to use for references https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/24-anh-tk-reference/ Good luck

Hey Richard. Managed to get the DLT and Blast FX stuff out. I haven't worked out a power source yet, so no power on images. You can easily find these on the web, but I have a build in the DLT forum that I will be updating soon. Not sure how large your DLT side box (is it a power source for the blaster...?) so your results will vary. This is the Blast FX red filter for the scope display. The scope display is a very small digital piece, maybe 1/4 inch (ish) square? It sits under the filter so it gets a red hue, then a convex glass is placed on top to magnify. The magnifier is exact same diameter of the red filter. Mine filter is just stuck on for the pics. I don't think I would need to drill a hole this size. I would only have to cut out a square big enough to fit the digital display. Wires will feed into the hollow receiver where the power source will be. This is the main display just held in place. There is about 1/8" gap between the filter and main display. It would actually be rotated 180 degrees so the wires come from the right and feed into the blaster receiver. It almost fits the space perfectly and would only require minor surgery to the blaster. I'm not sure if I'll cut a big rectangular hole so the display sits flush inside the big box, or just glue it on the face with appropriate holes drilled in the receiver to the right for the wires. If I do the face mount I would build a small frame with plastic strips around the display so it blends in. I think this is a good option for a "DLT Integrated Aiming and Display Unit ( DIADU ) that faces the user. Still working on the name From the side. The display sits about 1/4 inch below the lower edge of the box. I'm thinking I will build a ramp or wedge shaped piece to blend the display into the bottom of the side box. Once again, a frame will be built around the display with appropriate greebly add-ons so it looks purpose built. Kinda like this. If it is painted black it will blend in really well with the side blaster box. Hope this helps with ideas.

The inside walls of the hovi"s are black, the inner nipple (base) is white. You can have the rim all black or with a little white, they were originally white painted black and some paint was rubbed off during filming This one had a lot of action, also appears to have some tape wrapped around the hovi Also note the mesh is also black FYI here was the discussion

Richard it looks like I'll be going for a Stunt Build.

Thanks for the tip! I have added them to my shopping cart for later.

Hello there! Great work on those tubes Just printed: 220 dry sand - finish off with a 360 dry sand. First layer of Motip putty and 360 dry sand. If another layer is needed, I will then either use 360 again and then spray, or straight off a 500. I will normally finish with an 800 very slightly wet sand. This process has worked for me since I discovered Motip Spray Putty, I just learnt how to work with it. Maybe somebody else has a better process How is your costume coming along? I will check your updates.

Hi Adam. The insides of the Hovi's are black for Hero(with the exception of the little white cap inside) with a small amount of white on the rims.