Leaderboard

Thanks for all the advice. Following Scimitar and Mayo’s builds, I made a snap plate template that is 1” X 2”. I marked the holes at the 1/2” mark and the 1.5” mark. Then I cut out the nylon from 2” webbing and used a soldering iron to make the post holes. Then using the Tandy leather line 24 setting tool and my vice anvil, I made 30 base plates.

Made some progress. I trimmed out a little more of the bottom as suggested by Sky11 Teeth took a while. I started with a Dremel on the 4 most middle teeth. Only to doubt my skills in grinding down the ones on the ends of the frown. So I drilled those out instead. Overall I'm pretty happy. But would love some feedback on where the teeth stand now. In the meantime, I'm hoping to mock the pieces together and see how it initially looks. Photos to come!

I bought shoe stretcher spray like this, and I also keep a pair of these in my boots when not in use. (I let them dry out first, though).

So apparently, grey boots for TK's are a thing... Thanks Paul for the photo.

I have no idea how I'm even going to mask the tears. Guess I'll do those last. I always thought painting was through light coats, but after seeing how a light first coat dries and leaves stroke marks behind, I mean I posted those up right here. So I got 2 of the front traps done with gray. Now the 2 back traps. Going to try to mask the pinstripes as well. No pics yet.

A lot of work goes into those mini mee costumes

Photos as requested. Thanks!

I find wearing some larger socks and walking around they loosen quite well. If they are tight fill them with scrunched wet newspaper then leave for a few days to dry

I have my final snaps drying on my chest plate. I also have my guinea pig shoulder bells ready to strap on and follow crickets advice for shaping them. Once my chest is dry I can strap on the torso and start sizing the bells. I am taking cable guys advice in regards to tube stipes: Also using my RS helmet built by RS propmasters as a guide: CRL states Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. My RS has a bigger gap, but I am going to follow the CRL: I haven't painted yet, just have the decals placed that I believe are in a respectable manner. Awaiting confirmation that it's good before I paint: Right Side: Left Side: Center: Please let me know if I need to make any adjustments. Tried my best with looking at the CRL and researching on various threads.

I got the nomex gloves and they're actually all black, they don't have flecks of white or grey like up in that picture I previously posted. So I'm very happy with them.

OK I scrapped off the drips while they were still soft and started sanding away. I did an initial rough pass with 80 grit sanded wet. It actually gives the helmet an interesting layered "Boba Fett" style weathering look that I may use on other projects in the future. More to come soon. My TrooperBay order is ETA this week or early next so I'll keep sanding and (CAREFULLY this time) repaint this bucket

So to sum up Hero versions as both Luke and Han did not have the RS image holster but one of the Hero's did and the other we know had the com and grappling box and to include the PROMO version we have the following. 1 Hero with the tapered RS holster, sewn on opposite side and belt attachment in the middle with 2 rivets, wearing a TD with and no belt cover squares. 2 Hero Luke and 421 have the standard 4 rivet belt attachment E-11 style with com and grapping box 1 Hero the standard 4 rivet belt attachment E-11 style with TD 1 Hero PROMO tapered holster RS style with cut out/notch for E-11 or SE-14R (trooper could holster either style weapon), 4 rivets on belt, sewn on opposite side, wearing a TD. Would anyone have the following. Does anyone have an actual clear image of a standard E-11 holster as I've never found a really good one on it's own? Does anyone know the reason behind the swap to the SE-14R for the promo trooper, I'm thinking it was for appearance in the photo with the SE-14 being a lot shorter?